The recipes are divided into two main chapters: Vegetables and Mixed vegetables & salads. Within these chapters entries are grouped by main ingredient in A-Z order. The third chapter, Basic recipes & classic additions, has recipes for the batters, pas·- try, sauces and so on referred to in the first two chapters.
When an entry refers to another recipe, it may be found by first referring to the rel evant section and then to the food or dish type. A comprehensive index of entries lists the entire contents.
AN INDISPENSABLE RESOURCE OF MORE THAN
600 CLASSIC VEGETABLE AND SALAD PREPARATIONS, ALONG WITH RECIPES FOR BASICS SUCH AS SAUCES, DRESSINGS, PASTRIES, BUTTERS, STOCKS, AND MORE.
-~-
LAROUSSE
- RECIPE COLLECTION
VEGETABLES & SALADS
With the assistance ofthe Gastronomic Committee
President Joel Robuchon
CLARKSON POTTER/PUBLISHERS
NEW YORK
Gastronomic Committee
President
Joel Robuchon
Copyright © 2004 by Hamlyn, a division of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd Original French edition copyright © 2000 Larousse-Bordas/HER
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com
www.clarksonpotter.com
First published in Great Britain by Hamlyn, a division of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd, London, in 2004. The recipes in this book were previously printed in Larousse Gastronomique, published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, a division ofRandom House, Inc., New York, in 2001.
Clarkson N. Potter is a trademark and Potter and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available upon request.
ISBN-13 978-0-307-33603-3
ISBN-I0 0-307-33603-4
Printed in China
10987654321
First American Edition
Members of the Committee
Michel Creignou, Journalist
Jean Delaveyne, Chef, founder ofRestaurant Le Camelia, Bougival
Eric Frachon, Honorary president, Evian Water SA
Michel Guerard, Chef, Restaurant Les Pres d'Eugenie,
Eugenie-les-Bains
Pierre Herme, Confectioner, Paris
Robert Linxe, Founder, The House ofChocolate, Paris and New York Elisabeth de Meurville, Journalist
Georges Pouvel, Professor of cookery;
consultant on cookery techniques
Jean-Fran<;:ois Revel, Writer
Pierre Troisgros, Chef, Restaurant Pierre Troisgros, Roanne
Alain Weill, Art expert; member ofthe National Council of Gastronomy
Contributors
Marie-Paule Bernardin Archivist
Genevieve Beullac
Editor
Jean Billault
Member ofthe College of Butchery
Christophe Bligny
Paris College ofCatering Thierry Borghese
ChiefInspector ofConsumer Affairs
Francis Boucher
Confectioner
Pascal Champagne
Barman, Hotel Lutetia;
Member, French Association ofBarmen
Frederic Chesneau
Project manager
Marcel Cottenceau
Former technical director, College ofButchery
Robert Courtine
President, Marco-Polo Prize Philippe Dardonville
Secretary-general, National Union ofProducers ofFruit Juice
Bertrand Debatte
Officer ofthe Bakery,
Auchamps
Jean Dehillerin
President and managing director, E. Dehillerin SA (manufacturers ofkitchen equipment)
Gilbert Delos
Writer and journalist
Christian Flaceliere
Journalist
Jean-Louis Flandrin
Professor emeritus,
University ofParis VII;
Director ofstudies,
E.H.E.S.S. (College ofSocial Sciences)
Dr Andre Fourel
Economist
Dominique Franceschi
Journalist
Dr Jacques Fricker
Nutritionist
Jean-Pierre Gabriel
Journalist
Thierry Gaudillere
Editor, Bourgogne
Aujourd'hui (Burgundy
Today)
Ismene Giachetti
Director ofresearch, c.N.R.S. (National Centre for
Scientific Research)
Sylvie Girard
Cookery writer
Catherine Goavec-Bouvard Agribusiness consultant
Jo Goldenberg
Restaurateur
Catherine Gorny
Agribusiness certification officer, French Association ofStandardization
Bruno Goussault
Scientific director, CR.E.A. (Centre ofFood and
Nutrition Studies)
Jacques Guinberteau
Mycologist; Director of
studies, I.N.R.A. (National Institute ofAgriculture)
Joseph Hossenlopp
Director ofstudies, Cemagref (Institute ofResearch for
Agricultural and
Environmental Engineering) Franyoise Kayler
Food critic
Jacques Lacoursiere
Writer
Josette Le Reun- ,uudi hr,llI Teacher (specif1lizill~ ill
seafood)
Paul Maindiaux
Development officer,
Ministry ofAgricul/ure
Laurent Mairet
Oenologist
Jukka Mannerkorpi
Cookery editor
Pascal Orain
Manager, Bertie's neS/f1Urall/ Philippe Pilliot
Secretary-general, Fee/era /iou ofFrench Grocers; Editor,
Le Nouvel Epicier
(The New Grocer)
Jean-Claude Ribaut
Cookery correspondent,
LeMonde
Isabelle Richard
Bachelor ofArts
MichelRigo
Deputy head, National
Federation ofFruit Brandies Franyoise Sabban
Master ofceremonies,
E.H.E.S.S.
(College ofSocial Sciences) Jacques Salle
Journalist
Jean-Louis Taillebaud
Chef, Ritz-Escoffier (French School ofGastronomy); Ritz Hotel, Place Vendome, Paris Claude Vifian
Chefand professor, College of the Hotel Industry, Lausanne Leda Vigliardi Paravia
Writer and journalist
Jean-Marc Wolff
College ofthe Hotel Industry, Paris
Remy Yverneau
Secretary-general,
National Federation of
Makers ofCream Cheese
Contents
Useful information 8
Introduction 9
Vegetables 10
Artichokes (globe) 13
Asparagus 21
Aubergines (eggplant) 27
Avocado 33
Barley 37
Beans, fresh & dried 38
Beetroot (beet) 48
Broccoli 52
Brussels sprouts 53
Buckwheat 55
Bulgur 56
Cabbage 56
Cardoons 65
Carrots 67
Cauliflower 71
Celeriac (celery root) 74
Celery 77
Chestnuts 80
Chick peas 83
Chicory (endive) 84
Courgettes (zucchini)
& marrows (summer squash) 87 Cucumbers & gherkins 92
Custard marrow 97
Endive (chicory) 98
Fennel 100
Fern 101
Garlic 102
Jerusalem artichokes 105
Leeks 106
Lentils 110
Lettuce 112
Maize 115
Mushrooms 118
Okra 137
Onions & shallots 138
Palm hearts (hearts of palm) 144 Peas 146
Peppers (bell peppers) 150
Potatoes 153
Pumpkin 176
Radish 177
Rice 178
Salsify 181
Sorrel 184
Spinach 187
Sweet potato 193
Swiss chard 194
Tomatoes 197
Turnips 207
Watercress 210
Mixed vegetables & salads 212
Basic recipes & classic additions 240 Batters 243
Butters 245
Dressings & mayonnaise 246 Mirepoix, forcemeats
& sausagemeat 248
Pastry 251
Sauces & purees 255
Stocks, consommes & glazes 268 Index 276
Acknowledgements 304
Useful infoflTIation
How to use this book
The recipes are divided into two main chapters: Vegetables and Mixed vegetables & salads. Within these chapters entries are grouped by main ingredient in A-Z order. The third chapter, Basic recipes & classic additions, has recipes for the batters, pas·- try, sauces and so on referred to in the first two chapters.
When an entry refers to another recipe, it may be found by first referring to the rel evant section and then to the food or dish type. A comprehensive index of entries lists the entire contents.
Weights & measures
Metric, imperial and American measures are used in this book. As a general rule, it is advisable to follow only one set ofmeasures and not to mix metric, imperial and/or cup quantities in anyone recipe.
Spoon measures
Spoon measures refer to standard measur ing utensils. Serving spoons and table cutlery are not suitable for measuring as they are not standard in capacity.
l4 teaspoon = 1.5 ml
12 teaspoon = 2.5 ml
1 teaspoon = 5 ml
1 tablespoon =15 rnl
Oven temperatures
Below are the standard settings for domes tic ovens. However, ovens vary widely and manufacturer's instructions should be con sulted. Individual ovens also perform differently and experience of using a partic ular appliance is invaluable for adjusting temperatures and cooking times to give the best results. Those working with commer cial cooking appliances will be accustomed to using the higher temperatures attained. Many chefs' recipes refer to glazing or cooking in a hot oven for a short period: as a rule, the hottest setting for a domestic appliance should be used as the equivalent.
Temperatures and timings in the recipes refer to preheated ovens.
If using a fan-assisted oven, follow the manufacturer's instructions for adjusting timing and temperature.
Centigrade Fahrenheit Gas mark 110°C 225°F gas l4 l200e 250°F gas 12 140°C 275°F gas 1 150°C 300°F gas 2 160°C 325°F gas 3 180°C 350°F gas 4 190°C 375°F gas 5 200°C 400°F gas 6 220°C 425°F gas 7 230°C 450°F gas 8 240°C 475°F gas 9
Introduction
Larousse Gastronomique is the world's most famous culinary reference book. It was the vision of Prosper Montagne, a French chef who was responsible for the first edition published in Paris in 1938. His aims were to provide an overview of 20th-century gastronomy and its history, as well as a source of reference on the more practical aspects of cookery. Twenty-three years later the first English edi tion was published and it immediately became the culinary bible of chefs, cooks and food aficionados.
A new English edition of this monumental work was published in 2001. Completely revised and updated, it reflected the social and cultural changes, together with advances in science and technology, that have dramatically influ enced our ideas about food, the way we cook and how we eat.
Distilled from the latest edition, in one convenient volume, is this collection of over 600 vegetable and salad recipes, together with over 80 recipes for sauces, dressings, pastry, butters and stocks. Whether your interest is in the great tradi tions of French cuisine or in the wide spectrum offood as the international sub ject it has become, the recipes reflect the diversity of the world of cooking in the 21st century.
9
Asparagus mousse with orange butter
Recipe on page 23
Asparagus veloute soup Recipe on page 25
Cabecou figs en coffret with bean salad Recipe on page 39
Sauerkraut al'alsacienne Recipe on page 61
Gougeres with celeriac, celery and cream of caviar
Recipe on page 75
Jerusalem artichoke pie with foie gras and truffle Recipe on page 105
Fiddlehead fern and Matane prawn salad
Recipe on page 101
Salade gourmande Recipe on page 229
rT~
~~.
\~
VEGETABLES
Artichokes, globe
To prepare
Break offthe stalk ofthe artichoke by bending it until it comes away from the base; the stringy parts will come away with the stalk. Using a very sharp knife, cut the base flat and then remove the tough outer leaves. Neatly trim the outside of the artichoke, then cut offthe top and remove the choke. Rub with lemon to prevent it going black, even if it is to be used immediately.
ArIes salad
Slice some boiled potatoes and quarter some boiled artichoke hearts. Mix together and dress with vinaigrette, sprinkle with chopped chervil and tarragon, and garnish with curly endive (frisee) and tomato quarters. Garnish with drained canned anchovy fillets arranged in a criss-cross pattern, with a stoned (pitted) black (ripe) olive placed in the centre. Pour some vinaigrette (seasoned with very little salt) over the garnish just before serving.
Artichoke fritters
Trim some small, young globe artichokes (harvested before their chokes have formed). Blanch for 5 minutes until just tender, then drain and cut each
13
Artichoke hearts aLa florentine
artichoke into four pieces. Sprinkle with plenty of lemon juice and a little olive oil, season with salt and and a few turns of pepper and leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Drain the artichoke pieces. Dip them in batter, deep-fry in hot oil, drain again and serve on a napkin. (Brussels sprout fritters are prepared in the same way.)
Artichoke hearts ala florentine
Slowly cook some artichoke hearts and some spinach in butter in separate pans. Stuff each artichoke heart with a heaped tablespoon of prepared spinach and coat with Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9).
Artichoke hearts ala piemontaise
Cook some artichoke hearts in melted butter. Prepare a risotto a La ptemontaise and garnish each artichoke heart with a dome of 2 tablespoons risotto. Sprinkle the artichoke hearts with grated Parmesan cheese and a little melted butter and brown in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9). Serve with tomato sauce.
Artichoke mirepoix
Prepare 12 small young artichokes. Place 200 ml (7 fl OZ, I cup) fondue of vegetable mirepoix with some butter in a saute pan and add 2 tablespoons finely diced lean ham. Arrange the artichokes in the saute pan and cover with a lid. Cook very gently for 5 minutes, then moisten with 4 tablespoons dry white wine and reduce. Add 100 ml (4 fl oz, 112 cup) veal gravy, cover the pan once more and cook for 35 minutes.
Arrange the artichokes in a vegetable dish, pour the mirepoix over the top of them and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve immediately.
14
Artichokes aLa bretonne
Artichoke omelette
lice 4 artichoke hearts and saute them in butter until they are half-cooked, without letting them brown. Add the artichoke slices to 8 eggs and beat together; cook the omelette as usual. It can be garnished with a row of sliced sauteed artichoke hearts and surrounded with a ribbon of reduced veal stock.
Artichoke ragout
Prepare 2 kg (4112Ib) small artichokes. Heat some oil in a large flameproof casserole and toss the artichokes in it. Brown them, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Add sufficient water to cov~r, season with salt and pepper and, without covering the casserole, simmer very gently for 15 minutes. Saute 2 kg (4112 lb) small new potatoes in a little oil. Blanch 150 g (5 oz) lean diced bacon and add to the potatoes. Cook for 5 minutes to brown. Drain and add to the artichokes, cover and complete the cooking without stirring (this takes about 20 minutes).
Artichokes ala barigoule
Prepare the artichokes for stuffing. Clean and chop 75 g (3 oz, 1 cup) mushrooms for each artichoke. Mince (grind) 50 g (2 oz) fat bacon and the same quantity of ham. Mix these ingredients together with chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Fill the artichokes with the mixture, cover with fat bacon, tie up with string, and braise in white wine with a little olive oil. Thicken the cooking liquor with a very small amount ofsoftened butter.
Arti~hokes ala bretonne
These are boiled artichokes accompanied by a white sauce prepared from the cooking liquid and enriched with creme fraiche; butter is added to the sauce just before serving.
15
Artichokes aLa cevenoLe
Artichokes a la cevenole
Blanch the artichokes and gently cook them in butter. Garnish with chestnut puree flavoured with Soubise puree. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and melted butter and brown in the oven or under the grill (broiler).
Artichokes ala duxelles
Blanch the artichokes and cook gently in butter, then stuff with finely chopped mushroom duxelles.
Artichokes a la lyonnaise
Choose medium-sized artichokes with long spread-out leaves, either the green or the violet variety. Break off the stalks, chop the artichokes into four, cut the leaves down to two-thirds their length and remove the choke. Plunge the artichokes into a saucepan of boiling water, half-cook them and then drain them thoroughly.
Heat a mixture of equal parts of oil and butter in a flameproof pan and soften a chopped onion in it. Add the artichokes, season with salt and pepper and cook over a moderate heat until the vegetables begin to brown. Add 1 tablespoon flour and ab ut 300 ml (lf2 pint, }1/4 cups) stock. When the artichokes are cooked, arrange them on a vegetable dish and keep them hot. Add a little more stock to the pan and reduce. Add some chopped parsley and then stir in a good-sized piece of unsalted butter and the juice of 112 lemon. Pour the sauce over the artichokes and serve.
Artichokes a la ni<;oise
Blanch the artichokes and saute in olive oil. Garnish with thick tomato sauce, sprinkle with white breadcrumbs and olive oil, and brown in the oven or under the grill (broiler).
16
Artichokes cooked in butter or ala creme
Artichokes ala portugaise
Gently cook the prepared artichokes in oil with chopped onion. Add 2 peeled seeded chopped tomatoes, a little grated garlic and some chopped parsley. Cover and cook over a very low heat. Garnish with a well-reduced tomato sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Artichokes aux fines herbes
Lightly blanch the artichokes, then saute them (either whole or sliced) in butter. Arrange in a vegetable dish and sprinkle with chopped chervil and parsley. Ifthe artichokes are very tender, the raw hearts may be sliced, rubbed with lemon and sauteed in butter.
Artichokes Clamart
Clean a lettuce and cut it into long thin shreds. Wash 12 small young globe artichokes; break off the stalks and cut away the large leaves. Butter a flameproof casserole and arrange the artichokes in it. Add 500 ml (17 fl OZ, 2 cups) shelled fresh green peas, the lettuce, some salt, 1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar and 3 tablespoons water. Cover and cook very gently. Serve in the cooking dish, adding 1 tablespoon butter at the last minute.
Artichokes cooked in butter or ala creme
Prepare and trim the artichoke hearts. Rub them with lemon and blanch for 10 minutes in boiling salted water with a few drops of lemon juice. Drain the hearts, arrange in a well-buttered saute pan and season with salt and
pepper. Sprinkle with melted butter and cook, covered, for about 20 minutes. The artichoke hearts may then be served ala creme by covering them with hot creme fraiche that has been reduced by half. They may be cut into slices ifthey are too large.
17
Artichokes Crecy
Artichokes Crecy
Prepare 12 very small fresh artichokes and put them in a generously buttered saute pan. Turn 800 g ( 1% lb) small new carrots and add them to the saute pan. Season with salt and a pinch ofsugar. Moisten with 4 tablespoons water, cover, and cook slowly for about 40 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon unsalted butter just before serving.
Artichokes Soubise
Blanch the artichokes and steam them in butter. Garnish with Soubise puree. Sprinkle with a little Parmesan cheese and brown lightly In the oven or under the grill (broiler).
Artichoke veloute soup
Prepare a white roux with 40 g (1 112 oz,3 tablespoons) butter and 40 g (Ilf2 oz, 6 tablespoons) flour. Moisten with a generous 750 ml (1 1/4 pints, 311tt cups) chicken consomme. Blanch 8 small artichoke hearts, cut into slices. and simmer in 40 g (llf2 oz,3 tablespoons) butter for about 20 minutes. Add them to the consomme, bring to the boil and cook until the vegetables break up. Reduce the mixture to a putee in a food processor or blender. Dilute with a little consomme to obtain the desired consistency and heat. Remove from the heat and thicken the soup with a mixture of 3 egg yolks beaten with 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) double (heavy) cream. Finally, whisk in 75 g (3 oz, 6 tablespoons) butter. Reheat but do not boil.
Boiled artichokes
Using scissors or a very sharp knife, trim off the top third of the outer leaves of the artichokes and wash the heads in plenty of water. Break off the stalk level with the leaves (do not cut it); the stringy parts will come away with the
18
Braised stuffed artichokes
stalk. Tie up each artichoke with string so that the head retains its shape during cooking and plunge the vegetables into acidulated boiling salted water. Keep the water boiling vigorously. The cooking time (average 30 minutes) depends on the size and freshness of the artichokes. (Allow 10-12 minutes after the steam begins to escape when using a pressure cooker.) The artichokes are cooked when the outside leaves come away when pulled upwards. Drain the artichokes by placing them upside down in a colander, remove the string and serve immediately. If they are to be eaten cold, put them under the cold tap as soon as they are cooked and then drain them; do not untie them until the last moment. To serve, take out and discard the centre leaves which hide the choke and remove the choke by scooping it out with a small spoon.
Artichokes may be eaten hot with melted butter, a white sauce (prepared with the cooking water enriched with fresh cream), a cream sauce (or simply cream flavoured with lemon and heated), a hollandaise sauce or a mousseline sauce. Cold artichokes may be served with mayonnaise, mustard sauce, soy sauce, tartare sauce, or vinaigrette and flavoured, if desired, with chopped parsley or chervil.
Braised stuffed artichokes
Trim and tie large artichokes. Blanch for 5 minutes in boiling water, cool under the tap, drain and remove the small central leaves and the choke. Season with salt and pepper. Fill the artichokes with a meat stuffing (made, for example, with 4 parts sausagemeat to 1 part onion softened in butter, and some chopped parsley). Wrap them in thin slices of fat bacon and tie them. Butter a saute dish and line the base with bacon rashers (slices), and sliced onions and carrots. Place the artichokes on top, season with salt and pepper, and add a bouquet garni. Cover and begin cooking over a low heat. Moisten
19
Casseroled artichokes
with a small quantity of dry white wine, and reduce. Add a few tablespoons of veal stock, cover and cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for about an hour, basting frequently. Drain the artichokes, untie them and remove the bacon rashers. Arrange the artichokes on a round dish. Strain and skim fat from the cooking liquor, add some demi-glace or any other reduced sauce, and use to coat the artichokes.
Casseroled artichokes
Choose small Italian or violet Provenyal artichokes, and trim the leaves to two-thirds of their length. Blanch the artichokes, drain, remove the centre leaves and choke, and fill them with a stuffing made from breadcrumbs, chopped garlic, capers, parsley and salt and pepper. Arrange the artichokes close together in a casserole, moisten with a generous quantity of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4), uncovered, for about 50 minutes, basting from time to time. To serve, arrange the artichokes on a dish and pour the cooking juices over them.
Noisettes Beauharnais
Braise some small artichoke earts in butter. In another pan, saute some lamb noisettes in butter, arrange them on fried croutons and keep hot. Prepare some noisette potatoes and a bearnaise sauce, and pour the sauce over the artichoke hearts. Deglaze the meat pan with Madeira, boil down to reduce and add some chopped mushrooms. Arrange the noisettes on a serving dish with the artichoke hearts and the noisette potatoes and cover with the sauce.
Scrambled eggs with artichokes
Cook the artichokes in water until tender and remove the leaves and the choke. Slice the artichoke hearts crossways and saute them in butter. Make
20
Asparagus, to prepare
the scrambled eggs and add half the artichoke hearts. Arrange the mixture on a dish, garnish the top with the remaining slices of artichoke and fried croutons, and surround with a ribbon of concentrated veal stock.
Young whole, trimmed artichokes
These may be braised without stuffing, devilled, cooked ala lyonnaise or ala mirepoix, or used in any ofthe recipes for artichokes.
Asparagus
To prepare
Lay the asparagus stalks flat on a chopping board and cut them all to the same length. Peel them, working from the tip to the base, and clean the tips with a pointed knife if necessary. Wash the asparagus in plenty of water but do not soak. Drain and tie into bunches or small bundles.
Plunge the bundles of asparagus into boiling salted water - 11/2 teaspoons salt to 1 litre (l % pints, 41/3 cups) - water and cook for 20-30 minutes depending on the thickness. Remove the asparagus as soon as it is tender, and drain either on a plate covered with a napkin or on a draining rack. There are special cylindrical pans for cooking asparagus. The stalks are held upright and water is added to cover the stems but not the tips. The lid is replaced during cooking. The tips are more tender if they are cooked in the steam.
At the end of the season, asparagus becomes a little bitter. Blanch for 5 minutes and drain it, then complete cooking in fresh water.
21
Asparagus aLa flamande
Asparagus ala flamande
Cook some asparagus in salted boiling water. Serve hot with melted butter to which sieved yolks of hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs and chopped parsley have been added.
Asparagus ala polonaise
Clean some asparagus and trim to the same length. Tie into small bunches and cook for 25 minutes in plenty of boiling salted water (to which may be added 1 tablespoon flour to help the asparagus keep its colour). Drain thorougWy and arrange in a long buttered dish, in staggered rows, so that the tips show clearly. Sprinkle with sieved hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolk and chopped parsley. Lightly brown some breadcrumbs in noisette butter and pour over the asparagus. Serve immediately.
Asparagus aspic
Coat the base and sides of ramekins with aspic jelly. Cut asparagus tips to the height of the ramekins and arrange them so that they stand upright around the edge, closely pressed together. Fill the centre of the ramekins with a puree of foie gras. Cover with a~pic and leave to chill in the refrigerator for several hours before serving.
Asparagus au gratin
Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water, drain and arrange on an ovenproof dish, staggering the layers in order to expose the tips and hide the stalks. Coat the tips with a layer of Mornay sauce. Place a strip of foil over the uncoated parts. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, drizzle over melted butter and brown in the oven or under the grill (broiler). Remove the foil just before serving.
22
Asparagus mousse with orange butter
Asparagus charlotte
Trim 1 kg (2 1,4 lb) very fine green asparagus. Cook it in a generous quantity of salted water and then drain. Set aside 6 asparagus tips and pass the remainder through a fine sieve or a blender. Pour the resulting puree into a small saucepan and dry it out over a very gentle heat.
Plunge 12 cherry tomatoes into boiling water, peel and halve them, and remove the seeds. Soften them over a gentle heat and add salt and pepper. Peel 12 small pearl (button) onions, brown them in butter, add some stock and cook them until they are very tender. Make a zabaglione with 1 egg yolk, omitting the sugar.
Beat 2 eggs in a bowl with some salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes, asparagus puree, onions and half the zabaglione. Stir gently with a wooden spoon until thoroughly mixed. Warm 100 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) double (heavy) cream, whisk it slightly, and then add it to the vegetable mixture.
Pour the preparation into a buttered charlotte mould. Place it in a preheated oven at about 160°C (325°F, gas 3) and cook for just under 1 hour. Heat the 6 asparagus tips in a bain marie. Turn out the cooked charlotte on to a serving dish and surround with a rosette of asparagus tips. Coat with the remaining zabaglione.
Asparagus mousse with orange butter
Cook 200 g (7 oz) trimmed green asparagus spears in well-salted boiling water. Cool down quickly in a bowl of iced water, drain and dry on a cloth. Place in a blender with 2 whole eggs, 1 egg yolk, 50 g (2 oz) uncooked white chicken meat and 2 tablespoons creme fraiche. Add 7 tablespoons pouring cream, 2 tablespoons truffle juice,salt and pepper. Puree in a blender until the mixture is smooth.
Butter 4 stainless steel rings 6 cm (2 1/2 in) in diameter and 4 cm (11/2 in) 23
Asparagus ragout wtth young garden peas
high. Place on a roasting tin (pan) which will act as a bain marie. Cook 100 g (4 oz) green asparagus tips,S em (2 in) long. (Check that there are sufficient asparagus tips to line the sides ofthe rings.) Carefully arrange them vertically at regular intervals around the edge of each ring. Next fill the rings to the top with the asparagus mousse so that the asparagus tips stick out by 1 em (112 in). Pour water into the tin up to one-third the height of the rings. Cook in a preheated oven at 110°C (225°F, gas 114) for 20 minutes.
In a small saute pan, reduce the juice of an orange with the blanched, finely shredded zest of 112 orange. (Reserve the remaining blanched zest for garnishing.) Whisking continually, add 100 g (4 oz, 1/4 cup) butter cut into small pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Put aside in a warm place. Carefully transfer each stainless steel ring to a serving dish, slide a thin knife blade round the ring to loosen the mousse and remove the ring. Pour the orange butter around the mousse. Garnish with orange segments and blanched zest.
Asparagus ragout with young garden peas
Take equal quantities ofshelled young garden peas and peeled asparagus. Cut the asparagus into 2 em (% in) lengths. Saute some small onions in a pan with butter, oil or, ideally, goose fat. When they have browned, add the asparagus and peas, cover, and sweat for 5 minutes. Add salt, pepper, a little sugar and enough chicken stock to just cover. Cover the pan and cook over a low heat for 15 minutes. Arrange the ragout in a vegetable dish and serve.
Asparagus tart
Cover a pastry case (pie shell), baked blind, with a layer of creamed chicken puree. Garnish with asparagus tips that have been gently cooked in butter. Coat with cream sauce or supreme sauce. Sprinkle with fried breadcrumbs and brown in the oven.
24
Canapes with asparagus
Asparagus veloute soup
Prepare a white roux with 40 g (1 1/2 oz,3 tablespoons) butter and 40 g (1 1/2 oz, 6 tablespoons) flour. Moisten with a generous 750 ml (11,4 pints, 314 cups) chicken consomme. Cut 400 g (14 oz) washed asparagus into pieces, blanch for 5 minutes in boiling water, drain and then simmer with 40 g (1 V2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter for about 10 minutes. Reduce to a puree in a food processor or blender and add to the consomme. Dilute with a little consomme to obtain the desired consistency and heat. Remove from the heat and thicken the soup with a mixture of3 egg yolks beaten with 100 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) double (heavy) cream. Finally, whisk in 75 g (30z, 6 tablespoons) butter. Reheat but do not boil. Garnish with cooked asparagus tips and chopped parsley.
Buisson of asparagus in pastry
Buisson is the term for a traditional method of arranging food, especially crayfish and asparagus, pressed together in a pyramid. The term is now also used for fried smelts and goujonnettes of sole arranged in a dome with a garnish offried parsley.
Cook some very thick white asparagus tips in salted water, keeping them slightly firm. Drain and wipe dry. One by one, coat them in a little mayonnaise stiffened with gelatine. Bake a thin pastry case (pie shell) blind and half-fill with a salad of green asparagus tips and very fine slices oftruffle. Arrange the white asparagus tips on top in a pyramid.
Canapes with asparagus
Spread some thickened mayonnaise on rectangular slices of bread. Arrange very small asparagus tips on each canape and 'tie' each bunch with a thin strip of green or red sweet pepper.
25
Cream ofasparagus soup
Cream of asparagus soup
Shred and blanch 400 g (14 oz) asparagus tips, then cook them in 40-50 g (1 1/2-2 oz, 3-4 tablespoons) butter. Prepare 750 ml (llf4 pints, 3lf4 cups) white sauce using 900 ml (1 112 pints, 1 quart) milk to a white roux of 25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) butter and 40 g (1lf2 oz, 6 tablespoons) plain (all- purpose) flour and puree with the cooked asparagus in a food processor or blender. Reheat and season the soup, then thin with a little cream before serving.
Royale of asparagus
Cook 75 g (3 oz) asparagus tips and 5 or 6 fresh spinach leaves in boiling water for a few minutes, then drain them thoroughly. Add Ilf2 tablespoons bechamel sauce and 2 tablespoons consomme. Press through a sieve. Bind the mixture with 4 egg yolks, pour into buttered dariole moulds and cook in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 30 minutes. Unmould and serve.
26
Aubergine caviar
Aubergines (eggplant)
To prepare
Traditionally, the slightly bitter taste of aubergines (eggplants) was minimized by sprinkling the sliced or cut up flesh with salt and leaving it for 30 minutes to draw out bitter juices. The aubergine was then rinsed and dried before cooking. This process of degorging is no longer necessary as commercially cultivated aubergines are no longer as bitter as they used to be.
Aubergines may be stuffed in two ways depending on theirsize and shape. They may be cut in half lengthways and the flesh scooped out of each half. Alternatively, the top may be removed and the aubergine hollowed out inside. Use a sharp knife to remove the flesh, leaving a thickness of 5 mm (% in) around the edge, and scoop out the remainder of the flesh from the base with a grapefruit knife. Sprinkle the empty case and the flesh with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.
Aubergine caviar
Cook 3 big, heavy, whole aubergines (eggplants), in a preheated oven at about 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 15-20 minutes until tender. Hard boil (hard cook) 4 eggs, cool under a cold tap and shell them. Peel and seed 2 tomatoes and chop the flesh. Peel and finely chop an onion. Cut the aubergines in half, remove the flesh and chop it up with a knife. Mix the tomatoes, aubergine tlesh and onion in a salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper and slowly work in 1 small glass olive oil, stirring as for mayonnaise. Alternatively, puree the mixture in a blender. Place in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs and tomato slices.
27
Aubergine fritters
Aubergine fritters
Peel some aubergines (eggplants), slice them and marinate for 1hour in olive oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Mix together with a fork (or in a blender) some hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolk, a little butter and some chopped parsley. Spread the mixture on the aubergine slices. Dip the slices in batter, deep-fry in hot oil, drain and serve on a napkin. The same method may be used for broccoli, cardoons, celery, celeriac (celery root), courgettes (zucchini), cauliflower, marrow (squash) flowers, salsify, tomatoes and Jerusalem artichokes.
Aubergine omelette
Add 2 tablespoons diced aubergines (eggplants), sauteed in oil, to 8 eggs and beat together. Cook the omelette.
Aubergine papeton
Prepare 500 ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups) very reduced tomato fondue. Peel 2 kg (4V21b) aubergines (eggplants), cut them into cubes, sprinkle with fine salt and leave them to exude their juice for 1 hour. Wash the aubergine cubes in cold water, wipe them thoroughly, then sprinkle lightly with flour and cook very gently in 4 tablespoons olive oil until soft. Season with salt and leave to cool, then puree in a food processor or blender.
Mix 7 large eggs, beaten as for an omelette, with 100 ml (4 fl oz, 7 table spoons)milk, 2 finely crushed garlic doves, some salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne. Stir in the aubergine puree and pour into a buttered manque mould or souffle dish. Place this mould in a bain marie, bring it to the boil on the top of the stove, then transfer it to a preheated oven and cook at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for 1 hour. Turn out on to a warmed serving dish and coat with the hot tomato fondue.
28
Gratin languedocien
Aubergine souffles
Cook 3 big, heavy, whole aubergines (eggplants), in a preheated oven at about 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 15-20 minutes until tender. Cut the aubergines in half, remove the flesh and chop it up with a knife. Press the flesh through a sieve or puree in a blender and add an equal quantity of reduced bechamel sauce. Bind with egg yolks and season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. At the last moment, fold in very stiffly whisked egg whites. Fill the aubergine cases with the mixture and arrange them in a gratin dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, ifdesired, and cook in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas
6) for about 10 minutes.
For aubergine souffles ala hongroise, add 2 tablespoons chopped onion softened in butter to the filling and season with paprika.
Caponata
Peel 4 aubergines (eggplants), cut into large dice and sprinkle with salt. When they have lost some oftheir water, wash and wipe them and fry in oil. Cut the following ingredients into very small pieces: 100 g (4 OZ, % cup) olives, a head of celery scalded in salted water, 4 desalted anchovies and 50 g (2oz, 3 tablespoons) capers. Slice an onion and brown in oil. Heat up 200 ml (7 fl oz, % cup) tomato passata (puree) with 50 g (2 OZ, 1J4 cup) sugar until it is well reduced and darker in colour, then add 3 tablespoons vinegar and leave to simmer for a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper, add some chopped parsley, then mix the sauce with the aubergines and other ingredients. Allow to cool thorougWy. Arrange in the shape of a dome in a vegetable dish.
Gratin languedocien
Half-cook in oil 4 peeled and sliced aubergines (eggplants),seasoned with salt and pepper, and 12 halved, seasoned tomatoes. Arrange them in alternate
29
Imam bayildi
layers in a flameproof dish. Cover with a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped garlic and parsley. Sprinkle with olive oil. Begin cooking on the top of the stove, then bake slowly in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) until tbe top is well browned.
Imam bayildi
A Turkish dish of stuffed aubergines (eggplants) whose name means 'the imam fainted'. According to legend, when aubergines prepared in this way were offered to a certain imam (priest), he was so moved by the fragrant odour of the dish that he fainted from sheer gastronomical joy!
Soak 200 g (7 oz, I cup) currants in a little tepid water. \Vipe 4 long aubergines (eggplants) and, without peeling them, slice them in half lengthways. Carefully remove the pulp without piercing the skin, cut it into small dice and sprinkle with lemon juice. Peel and chop 4 large onions; peel, seed and crush 8 large tomatoes; and chop a small bunch of parsley. Heat 4-5 tablespoons olive oil and brown the diced aubergine, tomato pulp, chopped onion and parsley. Add salt, pepper, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. Cover the pan and cook gently over a low heat for about 20 minutes. Then add 2 crushed garlic cloves and the drain~d currants. Mix everything together thoroughly and cook for a further 5 minutes. Grease an ovenproof dish remove the thyme and the bay leaf, arrange the aubergine halves in the dish, and fill them with the mixture. Pour some olive oil around the aubergines and add a little fresh thyme and some crumbled bay leaf. Cook in a preheated oven at 160°C (325°F, gas 3) for 2 hours. Serve hot, warm or cold.
Rougail of aubergines
Remove the stalks from 2 or 3 aubergines (eggplants) weighing in total about 300 g (11 oz) and cook them for 20-25 minutes in a preheated oven at 220°C
30
Stuffed aubergines ala catalane
(425°F, gas 7). Meanwhile, in a food processor, puree 1 small new onion, a small piece offresh root ginger, V2 red chilli pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, the juice of V2 lemon and 3-4 tablespoons olive oil. Halve the aubergines and remove the pulp with a spoon. Mix this pulp with the other ingredients and blend well to obtain a fine paste. Chill until ready to serve.
Sauteed aubergines
Cut the aubergines (eggplants) into 2 cm (% in) cubes and coat with flour. Saute the cubes in olive oil in a frying pan. Arrange in a vegetable dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Stuffed aubergines
Cook 6 small aubergines (eggplants) in a preheated oven at about 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 15-20 minutes until tender. Cut the aubergines in half, remove the flesh and chop it with a knife. Sprinkle each hollow shell with salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil and arrange in an ovenproof dish. Cook them in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for 15 minutes. Place all the diced flesh in another dish, cover and cook it in the oven at the same time. Meanwhile, stone (pit) and finely chop 100 g (4 oz) large black olives and put them in a large bowl. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan, add 6 anchovy fillets and mash them to an oily puree. Pour this puree into the bowl of olives and add the cooked crushed aubergine flesh and 1 crushed garlic clove and some thyme. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Fill the aubergine shells with the mixture and flatten with a fork. Heat thoroughly in the hot oven.
Stuffed aubergines ala catalane
Cut 2 good-sized aubergines (eggplants) in half lengthways to form boat shapes. Leaving a 1cm (1/2 in) rim around the top, scoop out the flesh without
31
Stuffed aubergines al'italienne
damaging the skin. Chop the flesh together with 2 hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs, 2 crushed garlic cloves and some parsley. In olive oil, lightly cook 2 large chopped onions per aubergine, add it to the egg and aubergine mixture, and fill the aubergine boats. Arrange in an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with fresh breadcrumbs and oil, and cook in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7-8).
Stuffed aubergines al'italienne
Cook 6 small aubergines (eggplants) in a preheated oven at about 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 15-20 minutes until tender. Cut the aubergines in half, remove the flesh and chop it with a knife. Mix the chopped flesh with an equal quantity of risotto seasoned with chopped parsley and garlic. Fill the aubergine shells with this mixture and sprinkle breadcrumbs over the top. Sprinkle with olive oil and brown in the oven or under the grill.
32
Avocado salad archestrate
Avocado
Alienor salad
Mix 2 tablespoons grated horseradish with enough creme fraiche to give a smooth sauce with a strong flavour. Trim 2 smoked trout and remove the fillets, taking out all the bones. Cover 4 plates with lettuce. Cut a large avocado - stone (pit) removed - into thin slices; arrange the slices on the plates and sprinkle them with lemon juice. Arrange 2 fillets of trout, coarsely shredded, on each plate. Coat with the horseradish sauce. Sprinkle with a few flaked (slivered) almonds and complete with slices of gherkin.
Avocado and prawn barquettes
A barquette is a small boat-shaped tart made ofshort-crust pastry (basic pie dough) or puff pastry, baked blind and then filled with various sweet or savoury ingredients.
Mix some mashed avocado to which some lemon juice has been added with an equal volume of mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper and add a little cayenne. Fill the cooked barquettes with this mixture and garnish with shelled prawns (shrimp).
Avocado salad archestrate
Cut the heart of a head of celery into thin strips. Dice 3 cooked artichoke hearts and 3 peeled and seeded tomatoes. Halve 4 avocados and carefully remove the flesh, keeping each half intact. Slice the flesh and sprinkle with lemon juice. Season the avocado and vegetables with vinaigrette, arrange in a salad bowl and sprinkle with chopped herbs.
33
Avocado salad with crab
Avocado salad with crab
Cut 3-4 avocados in half and scoop out the flesh with a small spoon. Mix the flesh with crumbled crabmeat, diced tomato flesh, slices of hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg, pepper and a little tomato puree or ketchup. Spnnkle with chopped herbs and serve cold.
Avocado salad with cucumber
Assemble equal quantities of avocado (halved, stoned, peeled, diced and sprinkled with lemon juice) and halved, seeded and sliced cucumber in a salad bowl. Dress with vinaigrette, flavoured with mustard, and sprinkle with some chopped mixed herbs.
Avocado sauce
Blend together avocado flesh with lemon juice in the following proportions: 2 tablespoons lemon juice to a medium-sized avocado. Mix with an equal volume of whipping cream. Serve very cold with hot or cold meat or poultry, with quarters of lemon.
Avocados stuffed with crab
Prepare a mayonnaise and season it with mustard and cayenne pepper. Crumble some crabmeat (fresh, canned or frozen). Halve the avocados and scoop out the flesh in large pieces, then cut it into even-sized cubes. Sprinkle the flesh and the Insides of the avocado shells with lemon juice and season them With salt and pepper to taste. Mix the mayonnaise with the crabmeat and carefully stir in the chopped avocado flesh. Pile the filling Into the avocado shells. If you like, the avocados can he garnished With mayonnaise flavoured with a little tomato puree (paste) piping it with a star (fluted) nozzle. Dust With paprika.
34
Cornmeal pancakes with avocados
Avocados stuffed with shrimps
Prepare a mayonnaise and season it with mustard and cayenne pepper. Mix the mayonnaise with shrimps (fresh, canned or frozen). Sprinkle the flesh and the insides of the avocado shells with lemon juice and season them with salt and pepper to taste. Mix the mayonnaise with the shrimps and carefully add the chopped avocado flesh. Pile the filling into the shells. If you like, the avocados can be garnished with mayonnaise flavoured with a little tomato puree (paste) piping it with a star (fluted) nozzle. Dust with paprika.
Californian avocado salad
Peel 2 grapefruit, removing all the pith, then cut the segments from between the membranes. Place the fruit segments in a salad bowl. Halve 3 avocados, remove the flesh, dice it and sprinkle with lemon juice. Add to the salad bowl together with 150-200 g (5-70z) shelled shrimps. Sprinkle with 2 table spoons gin or brandy and add 3-5 tablespoons mayonnaise flavoured with a little ketchup and cayenne pepper. Garnish with slices oflemon.
Cornmeal pancakes with avocados
Make a pancake batter with 250 g (9 oz,2 cups) cornmeal, 3 eggs,salt, pepper, 2-3 tablespoons oil or melted butter and 500 ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups) warm milk, or a mixture of milk and water. Beat the ingredients together until smooth then set the batter aside. Puree the flesh of 3 avocados in a food processor or blender, adding cayenne, salt, pepper and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and put in a cool place. Add some chopped tarragon to the cornmeal batter and make the pancakes, then allow them to cool. Spread the pancakes with avocado puree, roll them up and hold them together with cocktail sticks (toothpicks). Serve cold, with a tomato salad sprinkled with snipped chives.
35
Grilled avocado with mozzarella
Grilled avocado with mozzarella
Mix 4 finely chopped spring onions (salad onions) with 100 g (4 oz) finely diced mozzarella cheese and the grated rind (zest) from I lemon. Peel, seed and dice 2 tomatoes. Halve and stone (pit) 2 firm but ripe avocados, then arrange them in a fireproof tin (pan) or dish, supporting them with crumpled foil. Sprinkle with lemon juice and trickle with olive oil. Grill (broil) until hot and lightly browned. Divide the tomatoes between the avocados, sprinkle with seasoning, then top with the mozzarella mixture. Continue grilling until golden brown and bubbling. Serve at once.
Guacamole
Finely chop lf4 small onion and mix with 2 peeled,seeded and diced tomatoes, 1 seeded and finely chopped green chilli, 1 finely chopped large garlic clove, the juice of lf2 lime and a little grated zest from about a quarter of the lime. Mash the flesh from 2 large ripe avocados in a mixing bowl, then add the vegetable mixture and gradually beat in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Stir in 2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) and seasoning to taste.
Iced avocado veloute soup
Using a melon baller, scoop out some balls of pulp from a small peeled and seeded cucumber. Blanch them rapidly in boiling water. Peel a firm ripe tomato after dipping it in boiling water, and cut the flesh into very small dice. Halve 3 avocados, remove the stones (pits) and scoop out all the pulp with a spoon. Put the pulp through a food processor or blender, adding the juice of 1 lemon, 4 tablespoons creme fraiche and 100 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) mille Season with salt and dust with cayenne pepper. Place in the refrigerator to chill. Pour the soup into 4 bowls and garnish with the cucumber balls, the diced tomato and 6 finely chopped mint leaves. Serve ice cold.
36
Polish kasha with barley
Barley
To prepare
Pearl barley is the hulled and milled grain, pot barley is unhulled; both are used chiefly in soups, broths and stews,such as oxtail soup, cholent and Scotch broth. Pearl barley can be boiled and served as an alternative to rice.
Consomme with pearl barley
Wash 100 g (4 oz, 1/2 cup) pearl barley in warm water and add it, with 1 celery stick, to 2.5litres (41,4 pints, 11 cups) clarified beefstock. Simmer for 2 hours, then remove the celery and serve the soup in cups.
Cream of barley soup
Wash 300 g (11 oz, 1V2 cups) pearl barley and soak it for 1 hour in warm water. Add the drained barley and 1 sliced celery stick to 1 litre (1 % pints, 41/3 cups) clear white stock and simmer for 21/2 hours. Rub the soup through a fine sieve and dilute with a few tablespoons ofstock or milk. Heat the soup through again and add 200 ml (7 fl oz, % cup) double (heavy) cream.
Polish kasha with barley
Pick over 350 g (12 oz, 11/3 cups) pearl barley and blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes. Bring 3 litres (5 pints, 13 cups) milk and 65 g (2% oz, 5 table spoons) butter to the boil, then add the barley. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat so that the mixture simmers and cook, stirring frequently, until the barley is soft - about 1 hour. Take the pan off the heat and add 200 g (7 OZ, 1 cup) butter. Cool for about 10 minutes before stirring in 6 lightly beaten
37
To prepare dried beans
eggs and 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) soured (sour) cream. Pour the mixture into a buttered charlotte mould and cook in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) until set and golden on top. Serve it in the mould with double (heavy) cream served separately.
Beans, fresh & dried
To prepare dried beans
Dried beans are usually soaked before cooking, as this reduces the cooking time. Soaking also allows the skins to rehydrate and the beans to plump up, preventing both from separating during boiling. Overnight soaking in plenty of cold water is best, though soaking in boiling water will reduce the time. Beans should not be left in warm water or in a warm room and they should not be soaked for more than 24 hours, as they may ferment and produce poisonous substances. For"this reason always use fre~h water for cooking.
Boil beans rapidly to destroy natural toxins, then reduce the heat to keep the water just on the boil. Cook for 45 minutes to Il/2 hours, or longer for soya beans to become tender. A bouquet garni, I onion studded with 2 cloves, I garlic clove and I diced carrot can be added during cooking. Do not add salt, as this will prevent the beans from becoming tender or will even harden part-cooked beans. Season beans when they are thoroughly tender. The old way was to include a pinch of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) in the cooking water to speed cooking, but this is not advised now, for nutritional reasons.
38
Cabecou figs en coffret with bean salad
To prepare podded fresh haricot beans
Remove the fresh beans from their pods. Cook in boiling salted water with a bouquet garni and vegetables to flavour (such as carrots, turnips, leeks and diced celery).
Alternatively, cook either 1 sliced onion and 1 sliced carrot or the white parts of leeks and some sliced celery sticks in butter until soft. Then add sufficient water to amply cover the beans when they are put in, together with a bouquet garni and a 300 g (11 oz) blanched and drained piece oflean green bacon. Cook for 30 minutes, add the beans, and simmer until they and the bacon are cooked (the time required will depend on the freshness and tenderness ofthe beans).
Broad beans with savory
Shell, skin and cook some broad beans in salted boiling water with a bunch of savory. Drain them well and heat in a shallow frying pan for a few moments until thorougWy dry. Add a generous knob of butter and a little cream. Mix gently over a low heat for a few seconds, taking care to ensure that the beans do not break.
Cabecou figs en coffret with bean salad
Coarsely chop a small bunch of chives. Cook 400 g (14 oz) very fine green beans in salted water, keeping them al dente. Soak 65 g (21/20Z, V3 cup) sultanas (golden raisins) in 60 rnl (2 fl oz, 1,4 cup) vinaigrette until very soft.
Cut 2 Cabecou goat's cheeses into quarters. Cut 8 figs 1.5 cm (% in) from the top, reserving the tops, and remove one-third of the flesh. Fill each fig with one quarter of Cabecou. Using a pastry (cookie) cutter with a fluted edge, cut out 6 cm (21/2 in) rounds of very thinly rolled puff pastry and brush with beaten egg. Place a fig on each piece of puff pastry and bake in a
39
Cockle salad with fresh broad beans
preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 20 minutes. After 15 minutes, replace the tops of the figs.
Toss the green beans with the sultana vinaigrette and add the chives. Arrange 2 figs in puff pastry on each plate and add some of the bean salad. Sprinkle with toasted flaked almonds and serve at once.
Cockle salad with fresh broad beans
Heat some cockles until they open, remove the walnut-sized pieces of flesh and keep warm. Peel some fresh broad (fava) beans, blanch them for 5 minutes in boiling salted water, then rinse in cold water. Pour some vinaigrette mixed with chopped herbs into a salad bowl. Add the beans and the cockles, toss quickly and serve.
Crab and beansprout salad
Clean and cook 2 large crabs. Wash, scald and cool 500 g (18 oz, 4112 cups) bean sprouts and dry them. Mix 4 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon ketchup or very concentrated sieved tomato puree and at least 1 tablespoon brandy. Mix the crabmeat, the bean sprouts and the sauce and serve on a bed oflettuce leaves. Sprinkle ~ith chopped herbs.
Estouffat of haricot beans al'occitane
Estouffat is a Languedoc dialect word for a dish that is stewed very slowly. In that region it is used mainly for a stew of pork and haricot (navy) beans, flavoured with garlic, onions and tomatoes.
Brown a diced carrot and a sliced onion in either goose fat or lard in a pan. Add 1.5litres (2% pints, 6112 cups) water and a bouquet garni, bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add 1.5 litres (2% pints, 6112 cups) fresh white haricot (navy) beans and cook until almost tender, then drain. Cut
40
Feijoada
250 g (9 oz) slightly salted belly bacon into cubes, blanch and brown in goose fat or lard. Add to the pan 150 g (5 oz, % cup) chopped onions, 2 large tomatoes (peeled and crushed) and 1 crushed garlic clove, and cook for a further 10 minutes. Then add the drained beans, cover the pan and gently simmer until cooking is completed.
Ifliked, 200 g (7 oz) rind from preserved pork may be added to the bean cooking liquid. When cooked, the rind is cut into squares and added to the beans in the serving dish.
Feijoada
A Brazilian speciality whose basic ingredient is the black bean (jrijol negro). It is a complete dish served on special occasions: a mixture ofmeat and beans is poured into the centre of a plate and surrounded by rice au gras, green cabbage (thinly sliced and fried) and a few slices of orange (peel and pith removed). A mixture of grilled (broiled) manioc flour, onion and other ingredients, together calledJaroJa, is sprinkled over the whole plate. The dish is served with a very spicy sauce, molho carioca, made with cayenne pepper, vinegar, the cooking liquid from the beans, chopped tomatoes and onions.
Soak 1 kg (2% lb) black beans in cold water for 12 hours and, in another container, 1 semi-salted pig's tail and 500 g (lIb 2 oz) lean, smoked bacon, changing the water in both containers several times. PeelS garlic cloves. Drain the beans and put them in a large braising pan. Cover with plenty of water and season with salt. Add 4 garlic cloves and 3 bay leaves. Bring to the boil and simmer gently for 1 hour. Drain the meats and boil for 10 minutes, then set aside. Seed 2 sweet (bell) peppers and cut into strips. Scald 500 g (lIb 2 oz) tomatoes, peel, seed and crush. Finely chop 1 small bunch parsley and 1 small bunch chives. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a frying pan. Add 1 chopped onion and fry until golden. Add the peppers, tomatoes, the remaining garlic clove
41
French bean salad
and the parsley. Cook for 20 minutes over a medium heat, stirring all the time. Season to taste. When the beans can be crushed between the fingers, remove a ladleful of them and a ladleful of cooking liquid. Puree the beans and return to the pan. Sprinkle with chives and set aside. Slice 6 small fresh sausages, 6 small smoked sausages and 1 chorizo. Add the various meats to the pan. Season with salt and paprika. Cook for a further hour, stirring in the tomato and onion puree halfway through cooking.
Prepare the farofa. Soak 100 g (4 oz, 2/3 cup) raisins in lukewarm water for 10 minutes. Melt 40 g (PI2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter In a frying pan and fry 1 large chopped onion. Add salt and 100 g (4 OZ, 1 cup) manioc flour, then 40 g (llf2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter to obtain a kind of light, sand-coloured mixture. Add 1 sliced banana, the drained raisins and 50 g (2 OZ, 112 cup) grilled (broiled) cashew nuts.
Serve with rice mixed with slices of orange and onion, allowing each person to sprinkle over more farofa.
French bean salad
Cook the beans just long enough for them to remain slightly crisp. Drain them and dry off any rem~ining water. Cut them in two and leave them to cool. Add a few chopped spring onions (scallions) and some well-flavoured vinaigrette. Mix and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Alternatively, the beans can be tossed in olive oil, sprinkled with pine kernels, and arranged in a lattice with long strips of marinated red peppers.
French beans ala lyonnaise
Cook the beans in boiling salted water and drain them well. For every 800 g (1 % lb) beans, prepare 225 g (8 oz) sliced onions and cook gently in butter in a saute pan until golden brown. Add the beans, season with salt and pepper,
42
Green beans bonne femme
and saute until the beans are slightly browned. Add 1 tablespoon vinegar and mix well. Turn into a dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
French beans in tomato sauce
Boil the beans in salted water until they are three-quarters cooked, and drain thoroughly. Cook them gently in butter for about 5 minutes, add a few tablespoons of concentrated tomato sauce and simmer. Turn into a dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley or basil.
French beans sauteed ala provenerale
Cook the beans and drain them thoroughly. Heat some olive oil in a large saucepan and brown the beans lightly. At the last moment add some chopped garlic and parsley; use 1 garlic clove and a small bunch of parsley for every 800 g (1 % lb) beans.
French beans with cream
Boil the beans in salted water until they are three-quarters cooked, Drain. Cover with single (light) cream and simmer until the cream is reduced by half. Add salt and pepper and transfer to a serving dish. A sprinkling of
chopped parsley can also be added.
This dish can be prepared afa normande: for every 450 g (1 lb) beans, add 1 egg yolk and 40 g (1V2 OZ, 3 tablespoons) butter after removing the pan from the heat.
Green beans bonne femme
Partially cook 1 kg (21/4lb) green beans in salted water. Blanch 250 g (9 oz, 11/2 cups) diced unsmoked streaky (slab) bacon. Brown the blanched bacon in a frying pan, then add the drained beans and 150 ml (1/4 pint, 2/3 cup) ~ich
43
Haricot bean salad
meat stock. Taste and adjust the seasoning, cover the pan and cook until the beans are tender. Dot them with butter and sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving.
Haricot bean salad
Cook the beans, allow them to cool and then drain. Add a chopped mild onion to the beans, mix with a well-flavoured vinaigrette, and sprinkle with chopped herbs (parsley, chervil and chives).
Haricot beans in tomato sauce
Cook the beans with 500 g (18 oz) lean bacon in one piece for each 1 kg (21141b) beans. When the beans are cooked, drain them and mix with 300 ml (1/2 pint, 1114 cups) tomato sauce. Drain the bacon, dice it and add it to the beans. Simmer for about 10 minutes and serve very hot. This dish can also be browned in the oven.
Haricot beans with onions
Cook and drain the beans. Cook some sliced onions gently in butter - allow
II>
200 g (7 oz) onions for each 1 kg (2 1;4 Ib) cooked beans. Add the beans, cover the pan, simmer for 6 minutes and serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Haricots ala creme
Cook the beans, drain them and warm them gently in a saucepan until nearly all the moisture has evaporated. Cover with creme fraiche, warm through again, add some chopped savory and serve very hot.
An alternative method is to butter a gratin dish, pour in the cooked beans mixed with cream, sprinkle the dish with white breadcrumbs and melted butter, and brown in a very hot oven or under the grill (broiler).
44
Puree offresh podded haricot beans
Maitre d'hotel French beans
String and slice the beans and place them in a large pan ofboiling water. Cook at a rolling boil, uncovered, and season with salt halfway through cooking. Drain thoroughly and mix in 50 g (2 oz, 114 cup) maitre d'h6tel butter per 450 g (1 lb) cooked beans. Serve with a little chopped parsley.
Mixed green beans
Take equal quantities of French beans and flageolets and cook them separately. Drain well and mix together. Blend in some butter or cream and sprinkle with chopped fines herbes.
Puree of French beans
Half-cook the beans. Drain them thoroughly and then cook gently in butter for 7-8 minutes, allowing 50 g (2 oz, 14 cup) butter for every 800 g (13!4lb) beans. Puree the beans in an electric blender or rub them through a fine sieve. (A quarter of its volume of mashed potato can be added to the bean puree.) To serve, warm through and add more butter.
Puree offresh broad beans
Shell and skin 500 g (18 oz) fresh broad beans and simmer in a covered pan with 7 tablespoons water, 50 g (2 oz, 14 cup) butter, a sprig ofsavory, a pinch ofsalt and 1 teaspoon sugar. Puree in a blender. Add some consomme to the puree ifliked.
Puree offresh podded haricot beans
Cook the fresh white beans using the basic method (page 39). Drain them, then rub through a sieve to remove the skins. Pour this puree into a saucepan and warm gently, stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth.
45
Red beans afa bourguignonne
If it seems to be too thick, add a few tablespoons of boiling cream or milk. Just before serving, blend in 50-100 g (2-4 OZ, 1/4 -112 cup) butter for each 1 kg (21/4 lb, 4112 cups) puree.
Red beans ala bourguignonne
Soak and drain red kidney beans, then boil them for 10 minutes and drain. Cook the beans with a little streaky bacon in equal quantities of water and red wine until tender. When the beans are cooked, drain them a little dnd place in a deep saute pan. Cut some bacon into dice, cook gently In butter, then add to the pan. Thicken with beurre manie and season to taste.
Shellfish and soya bean sprout salad
Cook a large crab in stock and 200 g (7 oz) prawns (shrimp) in salted water. Shell the crab and the prawns and flake the crabmeat. Place 500 g (18 OZ, 4112 cups) soya bean sprouts in cold water, remove the debris that comes to the surface, drain and blanch for no more than 1 minute in salted boiling water. Drain and refresh in very cold water, then wipe them.
Place the flaked crab, prawns and bean sprouts in a salad bowl. Finely slice 2 spring onions (scallions) and add 112 teaspoon soy sauce, 112 teaspoon mustard, a pinch of sugar, 1 tablespoon brandy or sherry, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 2-3 tablespoons oil, pepper, a little salt and a few drops of Tabasco (or a small pinch of cayenne pepper). Pour the sauce on to the salad, mix well and sprinkle with chopped fresh coriander (cilantro).
Sobronade
Soak 800 g (1314 lb, 4112 cups) dried haricot (navy) beans in cold water for 12 hours. Peel 2 turnips and cut into thick slices. Brown one third of these in a pan with 100 g (4 oz, 112 cup) chopped fat bacon. Drain the beans and put
46
Soya bean sprout salad
them into a large saucepan, cover completely with cold water and add 250 g (9 oz, 1lf.! cups) diced ham and a piece offresh pork (fat and lean), weighing about 800 g (1 % lb). Bring to the boil and skim; add all the turnip, 1 bouquet garni, 1 onion studded with 2 cloves, 4 carrots, 2 sliced celery sticks, 1 bunch of parsley and 2 chopped garlic cloves. Boil for about 20 minutes, then add 250 g (9 oz) thickly sliced potatoes and leave to cook for about 40 minutes. Garnish a soup tureen with slices of dried bread and pour the soup on top.
Soissonnais soup
Soak 350 g (12 oz, 2 cups) dried white haricot (navy) beans in cold water for 12 hours. Put them in a saucepan with 1.5 litres (2% pints, 6112 cups) cold water and bring to the boil. Add 1onion studded with 2 cloves, 1 peeled diced carrot, 1 bouquet garni and 75 g (3 oz, 1/3 cup) slightly salted belly of pork or unsmoked streaky (slabs) bacon, blanched, diced and fried in butter. Cover, bring to the boil and cook until the beans break up. Remove the onion and the bouquet garni. Put the beans and some of the liquid through a blender or food processor. Return the puree to the saucepan, dilute with stock or consomme and adjust the seasoning. Bring to the boil and whisk in 50 g (2 oz, 1,4 cup) butter. Serve with croutons fried in butter.
Soya bean sprout salad
Place 500 g (18 oz, 41/2 cups) soya bean sprouts in cold water, remove the scum that comes to the surface, drain and blanch for no more than 1 minute in salted boiling water. Drain and refresh in cold water, then dry them and lightly fry with 3 tablespoons hot oil. Hard boil (hard cook) and shell 4 eggs. Put the bean sprouts in a salad bowl and dress with a spicy vinaigrette seasoned with a little cayenne. Add a few slices of white chicken meat or cold roast duck. Mix and garnish with the quartered hard-boiled eggs.
47
Beetroot (beet), to prepare
Beetroot (beet)
To prepare
Beetroot (beet) can be eaten raw (peeled and grated) but it is usually cooked. Trim leaves and roots, leaving short lengths attached to the beetroot as the root will 'bleed' and lose colour if cut before boiling. Boil in salted water or bake wrapped in foil or in a covered dish in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4). Cooking time depends on size and age: small young beetroot are boiled for about 30 minutes. Larger and/or older vegetables require 45-60 minutes boiling or longer. Baking time is about 1-2 hours. Drain and peel while hot when the peel slips off easily.
Beetroot ala lyonnaise
Parboil some beetroot (beet) in salted water, peel and slice. Cook until tender in butter with thinly sliced onions. Add a little thickened brown stock or bouillon to which 109 (113 oz, 1 teaspoon) ofsoftened butter has been added. Heat through and serve.
Beetroot salad al'alsacienne
Peel some baked beetroot (beet) and slice or dice. Make a vinaigrette dressing with mustard and add some finely chopped shallots and herbs. Pour over the beetroot and marinate for 1 hour. Garnish with sliced saveloy before serving.
Beetroot salad ala polonaise
Peel some cooked beetroot (beet) and cut into thin slices. Season with a highly spiced vinaigrette, pile in a salad bowl and sprinkle liberally with
48
Cream of beetroot soup
chopped parsley and sieved hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolk. Thin apple slices sprinkled with lemon juice may be added to the salad.
Braised beetroot with cream
Parboil some beetroot (beet) in salted water, peel and slice. Cook in a little butter in a covered pan until tender. Remove the beetroot and keep hot. Boil some double (heavy) cream, add to the cooking liquor and reduce to half its volume, seasoning with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in 25 g (1 oz, 1 tablespoon) butter. Pour this sauce over the beetroot slices.
Cold beetroot soup
Wash thoroughly 1 kg (2lf4Ib) small raw beetroots (beets), cook gently in salted water, then add the juice of 1 lemon and allow to cool. Cook 3-4 egg whites in a small flat-bottomed dish in a bain marie. Wash and chop a few spring onions (scallions), including the stems. Peel the cold beetroot and slice into thin strips. Add with the diced egg whites, 2 diced Russian gherkins and the chopped onions to the liquid in which the beetroot was cooked, together with a generous pinch ofsugar and 150-200 ml (5-7 fl oz, 2/3-314 cup) creme fraiche. Stir well and place in the refrigerator. Just before serving, sprinkle chopped parsley over the soup.
Cream of beetroot soup
Cook 200 g (7 oz) beetroot (beet) in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4). Finely shred 50 g (2 oz) of the cooked beetroot and set it aside. Puree the remainder in a food processor or blender. Press through a sieve into a large saucepan and sprinkle with lemon juice. Prepare 500 rnl (17 fl oz, 2 cups) white sauce by adding 600 ml (1 pint, 21/2 cups) milk to a white roux of 25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) butter and 40 g (llf2 oz, 6 tablespoons) plain (all
49
Gratin of beetroot in verjuice
purpose) flour and add this to the saucepan with the same amount of milk. Cook for 10 minutes. Add 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) single (light) cream and heat without boiling. Add the reserved beetroot and adjust the seasoning before serving.
Gratin ofbeetroot in verjuice
Slice 1 kg (2 1/4 lb) raw beetroot (beets) and cut into sticks. Cook in a white stock and drain without cooling. Gently heat 200 ml (7 fl OZ, % cup) single (light) cream without boiling, whisking all the time. Remove from the heat. Mix together half a glass of verjuice (obtained by pressing a large bunch of sour white grapes), 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Gradually add this mixture to the cream. Arrange the vegetables in a baking dish and cover with the sauce. Sprinkle with grated Cantal cheese, add very small knobs of butter and cook au gratin by placing the dish in a very hot oven for a few minutes until the top is browned.
Scandinavian beetroot salad
Peel some baked beetroot (beet) and cut into cubes. Peel and slice some onions and separate the rings. Hard boil (hard cook) some eggs and cut into quarters. Cut some sweet smoked or unsmoked herring (a speciality of Scandinavia) into pieces. Sprinkle the beetroot with highly seasoned vinaigrette and place in a salad bowl. Garnish with the herrings, hard-boiled eggs and onions, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Ukrainian borsch
Fry 2 chopped onions and 200 g (7 oz) raw sliced beetroot (beet) in lard, cover and continue to cook gently. Bring 1 kg (2Ib) stewing (chuck) steak to the boil in 2.5 litres (4lJ4 pints, 11 cups) water, then skim. Add 500 g (18 oz)
50
Ukrainian borsch
shredded white cabbage, 3 carrots, a bunch of parsley, small trimmed celery sticks, and the beetroot and onion. Season with salt. Cook 4 ripe tomatoes in a little water, sieve and add them to the soup. Cook for 2 hours, then add a few potatoes, cut into quarters. Prepare a roux with lard and flour, mix with a little stock and pour it into the borsch with 2 tablespoons chopped fennel. Boil for a further 15 minutes and serve.
This Ukrainian borsch is served with a bowl of fresh cream, garlic cloves (which should be eaten between spoonfuls of soup), buckwheat kasha with bacon, and piroshki, little dumplings filled with meat, rice and cabbage.
51
Brussels sprouts with butter or cream
Brussels sprouts
Brussels sprout puree
Puree some cooked buttered Brusselssprouts in a food processor, see Puree of Brussels sprout soup (page 54). Then pour into a saucepan and heat, stirring to lose some moisture. Add a quarter of its volume of potato puree and double (heavy) cream, using about 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) cream for 1 litre (1% pints, 41/3 cups) puree. Season with salt and pepper and serve very hot, preferably with roasted or braised white meat.
Brussels sprouts au gratin
Prepare some buttered Brussels sprouts. Butter a gratin dish, tip the sprouts into it, sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and brown for about 10 minutes in a very hot oven.
Brussels sprouts Mornay
Heap some buttered Brussels sprouts In a buttered gratin dish, coat generously with Mornay sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and brown for about 10 minutes in a very hot oven.
Brussels sprouts with butter or cream
Plunge the sprouts into boiling salted water and cook them quickly, uncovered. When they are still firm, remove and drain. Melt some butter in a shallow frying pan, using about 25 g (1 OZ, 2 tablespoons) for 800 g (1% lb) sprouts, and brown the sprouts. Adjust the seasoning, cover and simmer until the sprouts are completely cooked.
53
Broccoli ala creme
Broccoli
Broccoli ala creme
Prepare 1 kg (2lf4Ib) broccoli, then blanch it in 2 litres (3lf2 pints, 9 cups) boiling salted water for about 30 seconds. Drain the broccoli and chop very coarsely. Lightly brown 50 g (2 OZ, lf4 cup) butter in a frying pan and add 150-200 ml (5-7 fl oz, 2/3-% cup) double (heavy) cream. When the cream is coloured, add the broccoli. Season with pepper and again with salt if necessary. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Serve the broccoli very hot with roast or sauteed meat or with certain types of fish, such as bass, cod or hake.
Broccoli, potato and bacon pot with soup
Soak a piece of unsmoked streaky bacon about 500 g ( 18 oz) in cold water, then place in a large saucepan with 2 litres (3lf2 pints, 9 cups) cold water; simmer for about PI2 hours. Add 1 kg (2lf4 lb) prepared broccoli, 2 crushed garlic cloves, with a little salt. Add 575 g (Ilf4 lb) quartered potatoes and boil for 15 minutes.
Drain the meat and vegetables. Chop the broccoli coarsely and heat with 40 g (P/2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter. Cut the bacon into slices and brown in 25 g (1 oz,2 tablespoons) butter. Slice the potatoes. Layer the broccoli, then the potatoes and finally the slices of bacon in a heated dish. Sprinkle with the butter used for cooking.
Add 25 g (1 oz,2 tablespoons) butter to the water in which the bacon and vegetables were cooked. Pour this stock into a soup tureen over thin slices of wholemeal bread dried in the oven. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve the soup before the hotpot.
52
Puree of Brussels sprout soup
If desired, the sprouts may be coated with double (heavy) cream, using 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) for 800 g (13;4 lb) vegetables, before they are covered to finish cooking.
Puree of Brussels sprout soup
Trim 500 g (18 oz) Brussels sprouts and blanch them for 2 minutes in boiling water. Rinse in cold water and drain thoroughly, then sweat gently in 50 g (2 oz, 1.4 cup) butter. Puree the cooked sprouts in a food processor or blender. Pour the puree into a saucepan and add 1.75litres (3 pints, 71/2 cups) chicken stock and 250 g (9 oz) floury potatoes, cut into quarters. Bring to the boil and cook for about 30 minutes. Rub through a sieve and add sufficient stock to obtain the desired consistency. Adjust the seasoning. Just before serving, beat in 50 g (2 oz, 1;4 cup) butter, cut into small pieces.
Sauteed Brussels sprouts
Cook some sprouts in boiling water until tender, then drain thoroughly. Melt some butter in a frying pan and toss the sprouts lightly in it. Transfer them to a vegetable dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
They may also be served with noisette butter (moistened first with lemon juice), a l'indienne (accompanied by a curry sauce and boiled rice), a la
milanaise (sprinkled with grated Parmesan, then moistened with noisette butter), or ala polonaise, as for cauliflower.
54
Russian kasha with Parmesan cheese
Buckwheat
Russian kasha
Crush 500 g (I8 OZ, 3% cups) fresh buckwheat and soak in sufficient warm water to make a thick paste. Season with salt and put it in a deep cake tin (pan) or charlotte mould (traditionally an earthenware pot is used). Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for 2 hours. Remove the thick crust formed on the surface and pour the remaining soft paste into a dish. Add 65 g (21/2 OZ, 5 tablespoons) butter and mix well with a spatula. Spread the paste out on a greased surface, cover it with a board, then press it until it is about I cm (1/2 in) thick. Cut into shapes with a pastry (cookie) cutter and fry in clarified butter until golden brown. Serve with soup.
Russian kasha with Parmesan cheese
Prepare a kasha of buckwheat as described. Spread a thin layer of the soft paste over the bottom of a buttered gratin dish. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and a little melted butter, alternating the layers until all the ingredients are used up. Smooth the final layer of kasha carefully, then sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, top with melted butter and brown in a preheated oven at 230°C (450°F, gas 8). Serve melted butter separately.
55
Tabbouleh
Bulgur
Tabbouleh
Put 250 g (9 OZ, 2112 cups) bulgur wheat into a bowl. Add plenty of cold water to cover and leave to soak for 20 minutes; drain thoroughly in a fine sieve. Place the bulgar in a large salad bowl. Add 500 g (18 OZ, 3 cups) finely diced juicy tomatoes with their juice, 250 g (9 OZ, 1112 cups) finely chopped onions, 2 tablespoons of both chopped fresh mint and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Mix in 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) olive (or a mixture of olive and some sesame) oil and the juice of 3 lemons. Leave in a cool place for 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. Just before serving, garnish with 8 spring onions (scallions) and leaves of fresh mint.
Cabbage
Bigos
The Polish national dish, bigos is also known as 'hunter's stew'. It is made of alternate layers of sauerkraut and meat simmered for a long time. Large Polish boiling sausage is also cut up and added to the stew, which often includes wild mushrooms.
Rinse 4 kg (9 Ib) sauerkraut and drain it well. Peel, core and dice 4 dessert apples, sprinkling the pieces with lemon juice, and add to the sauerkraut with
56
Cabbage charlotte wtih olives
2 large chopped onions. Melt 4 tablespoons lard in a flameproof casserole and cover with a fairly thick layer of sauerkraut, then add a layer of diced meat. Continue filling the pot with alternate layers of meat and sauerkraut, finishing with a layer of sauerkraut and adding a little lard every now and then. Pour in enough stock to cover the sauerkraut. Cover the pot and cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for 2-3 hours. Make a white roux and add some of the cooking liquor. Pour this sauce over the bigos and cook for a further 30 minutes.
Braised cabbage
Prepare a cabbage: blanch, drain, cool in cold water and drain once again. Separate the leaves and discard the large ribs. Scrape and dice a carrot. Line a flameproof casserole with bacon rashers (slices) stripped of half their fat and add the diced carrot, then the cabbage, forming a heap. Season with salt and pepper and add a little grated nutmeg, an onion stuck with a clove and a bouquet garni. Pour in stock to two-thirds cover the cabbage and place a very thin strip of bacon on top. Cover the casserole and bring the stock to the boil over a ring. Then place the casserole in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) and cook for about 11/2 hours.
abbage charlotte with olives
Blanch a cabbage, then cook in water and put through a vegetable mill. To the resulting puree add 100 ml (4 fl OZ, 7 tablespoons) water, 1 egg yolk and a little grated cheese. Stone (pit) and coarsely chop 30 black (ripe) olives and add them to the cabbage puree with a stiffly whisked egg white. Mix well. Butter a charlotte mould and sprinkle with dried breadcrumbs. Pour the mixture into the mould and cook in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for about 30 minutes.
57
Chinese cabbage ala pekinoise
Chinese cabbage ala pekinoise
Remove the outer leaves from a Chinese cabbage and slice it into 10 cm (4 in) strips. Cut some very thin slices of ham to the same length and finely slice 5 or 6 spring onions (scallions) and their stems. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a shallow frying pan, add the cabbage and brown for 2-3 minutes. Arrange the pieces of cabbage in a steaming basket, add the sliced onion and a little fine salt, and steam for 30 minutes. Then insert the slices of ham between the pieces of cabbage and steam for a further 4-5 minutes. Serve the cabbage and ham together.
Fried eggs al'alsacienne (with sauerkraut)
Fry some eggs in goose fat, then arrange them on a bed of braised sauerkraut, alternating them with half-slices of ham. Surround the ingredients with a border of demi-glace sauce.
Green cabbage salad
Remove any withered outer leaves, cut the cabbage into four and cook for about 12 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, cool and wipe. Cut the quarters into a julienne and season with a well-spiced vinaigrette. Sprinkle with chopped herbs or finely shredded spring onions (scallions).
Paupiettes of cabbage
Blanch a whole cabbage for 7-8 minutes in boiling salted water, then drain and cool it. Pull off the large outer leaves, removing the tougher ribs. Chop the leaves from the central heart and to them add an equal volume of forcemeat. Make paupiettes by rolling this mixture in the large leaves, using 1 tablespoon per leaf; tie them up with kitchen thread. Line a flameproof casserole with 100 g (4 oz) bacon, 150 g (5 oz, 1 cup) diced carrots and 150 g
58
Red cabbage aLa flamande
(5 oz, 1 cup) finely diced onion. Put the cabbage paupiettes on top and barely cover with rich stock. Cover the pan, bring to the boil, then cook in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 1114 hours. Transfer to a serving dish and reduce the strained cooking liquor by half, then use to glaze the paupiettes. These paupiettes form a perfect garnish for braised meat.
Pickled red cabbage
Prepare the cabbage: cut it into quarters, remove and discard the large ribs, then cut it into strips. Place in a large basin, sprinkle with a generous tablespoon offine salt and mix well. Cover and leave for at least 48 hours in a cool place, turning over the cabbage strips several times. Drain the cabbage and arrange it in layers in an earthenware jar, inserting between each layer 4-5 peppercorns, 3 small pieces of bay leaf and V2 garlic clove, chopped. Boil enough red wine vinegar to cover the cabbage, leave to cool, then pour it over the cabbage. Seal the jar and leave to marinate for at least 36 hours. The cabbage can be served in various hors d'oeuvre or as a condiment with cold beef or pork.
Red cabbage ala flamande
Remove any withered leaves,slice offthe stump (core) at the base ofthe leaves and cut the cabbage into four sections, then into thin strips. Wash and dry. Melt 40 g (l V2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter in a saucepan, add the cabbage, sprinkle with salt and pepper, moisten with 1 tablespoon vinegar, then cover and cook over a gentle heat. Meanwhile, peel 3 or 4 tart apples, cut them into quarters, remove the cores and slice them finely. Add them to the cabbage after 1 hour of cooking, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon brown sugar, replace the lid and cook for a further 20 minutes. Serve the cabbage with boiled pork or boiled or braised beef.
59
Red cabbage aLa limousine
Red cabbage ala limousine
Prepare the cabbage and cut it into thin strips. Melt 4 tablespoons lard (shortening) in a saucepan. Add the cabbage and about 20 large peeled sweet chestnuts. Add sufficient stock to barely cover the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper, cover the pan and leave to cook gently for about Ilf2 hours. Serve to accompany roast pork or pork chops.
Red cabbage salad
Select a very fresh and tender red cabbage (break off a large leaf to test it), remove the large outer leaves, cut the cabbage into four and remove the white centre. Slice the quarters into fine strips, about 5 mm (1/4 in) wide, blanch them for 5 minutes in boiling water, then cool and wipe them. Place in a salad bowl, sprinkle with 200 ml (7 fl OZ, % cup) boiling red wine vinegar, mix, cover and leave to marinate for 5-6 hours. Drain the cabbage and season it with salt, pepper and oil. Unblanched red cabbage can be used for a very crisp salad: shred the wedges finely. Add 2 tablespoons ofsoft brown sugar with the vinegar if liked.
Sauerkraut
Remove the core and any green or damaged outer leaves from some white cabbages. Using a knife with a broad blade or a special shredder or food processor, cut the cabbages into very fine strips. Wash and drain thoroughly. Line the bottom of an earthenware crock with large cabbage leaves or vine leaves and arrange the shredded cabbage in layers, covering each layer with coarse salt, and sprinkling with juniper berries or other flavourings, if liked. Continue until the crock is two-thirds full. Put a handful of coarse salt on the final layer. Cover with a cloth to help exclude air, then with a wooden lid that fits down inside the crock. Place a heavy weight on this lid. By the next day, the
60
Sauerkraut al'alsacienne
weight should have forced out sufficient liquid (water drawn out of the cabbage by the salt) to cover the lid. Make sure that there is always enough liquid to keep the weighted lid covered. Keep in a cool place, skimming off scum or foam.
After at least three weeks, when no more scum or foam forms above the cabbage, the sauerkraut is ready to eat. Each time some sauerkraut is taken out, ladle offthe covering liquid, replace the cloth, the lid and the weight, and add fresh water to cover.
Sauerkraut is best eaten fresh and should be pale in colour and crunchy. It should not be kept too long; eventually it turns yellow and acquires a more pronounced flavour.
Sauerkraut al'alsacienne
Thoroughly wash 2 kg (41/2 lb) raw sauerkraut in cold water, then squeeze and disentangle it with your fingers. Peel 2 or 3 carrots and cut into small cubes. Peel 2 large onions and stick a clove in each.
Coat the bottom and sides of a large flameproof casserole with goose fat or lard. Pile in half the sauerkraut add add the carrots, onions, 2 peeled garlic cloves, 1teaspoon ground pepper, 1tablespoon juniper berries and a bouquet garni. Add the rest of the sauerkraut, a raw knuckle of ham and 1 glass of dry white Alsace wine and top up with water. Season lightly with salt, cover the casserole and bring to the boil. Then transfer the casserole to a preheated oven at 190°C (375 OF, gas 5) and cook for 1 hour. Remove from the oven, add a medium-sized smoked shoulder of pork and 575-800 g (1114-1 % lb) smoked belly (salt pork). Cover, bring to the boil on the hob (stove top), then cook in the oven for a further 1112 hours.
Meanwhile, peel 1.25 kg (2% lb) potatoes. After }i/2 hours, remove the pork belly from the casserole and add the potatoes. Leave to cook for a further
61
Sauerkraut au gras for garnish
30 minutes. During this time, poach 6-8 Strasbourg sausages in barely simmering water. When the sauerkraut is cooked, remove and discard the bouquet garni and the cloves and return the pork belly for 10 minutes to reheat it. Arrange the sauerkraut in a large dish and garnish with the potatoes, sausages and meat cut into slices.
Sauerkraut au gras for garnish
Follow the recipe above for sauerkraut al'alsacienne, but replace the water with unskimmed stock and do not add meat. Cook gently for 3 hours. It is served as a garnish for poultry or meat.
Sauerkraut salad al'allemande
Thoroughly wash 1 kg (2114Ib) raw sauerkraut, squeeze and disentangle it with your fingers. Place it in a saucepan along with 2-3 large whole onions, salt and pepper, then cover with either stock or water to which 1 tablespoon cooking oil has been added. Cook over a gentle heat for about 2112 hours, then drain and leave to cool. Dice the onions and return them to the sauerkraut. Press the sauerkraut, season with vinaigrette and pile into a deep dish. Garnish with quarters of hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs and cubes of cooked beetroot (red beet).
Sichuan-style Chinese cabbage
Clean a Chinese cabbage and cut it into pieces about 3 cm (1 1;4 in) long. Wash, blanch, cool and drain. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a frying pan. Chop a large garlic clove and lightly brown it in the oil. Add the cabbage, a little Sichuan pepper and some salt; stir well and leave to cook for 1 minute. Then add 1 teaspoon marc brandy and 1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar and stir well for 1 minute. Adjust the seasoning and serve very hot.
62
Stuffed cabbage
Soft-boiled or poached eggs al'alsacienne
Cook the eggs. Put a layer ofbraised sauerkraut on a dish and place the boiled or poached eggs on it, alternating them with large strips of bacon which have been cooked in their own fat. Coat with a demi-glace sauce.
Sou-fassum
A whole cabbage stuffed with a forcemeat of Swiss chard, bacon, onions, rice and sausagemeat, typical of Nice, in France. Traditionally, it is wrapped in a net, known as afassumier, and cooked in the stock of a mutton pot-au-feu.
Trim a large green cabbage, blanch for 8 minutes in boiling salted water, then cool and drain. Detach the large leaves, remove their ribs and spread them out flat on a net or a piece of muslin (cheesecloth), soaked and wrung out. Chop the remainder ofthe cabbage. Make the forcemeat by mixing 250 g (9 oz) blanched chopped Swiss chard leaves; 200 g (7 OZ, 1 cup) lean bacon, diced and browned; 100 g (4 oz, 2/3 cup) chopped onions, fried in butter; 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and crushed; 100 g (4 oz, 2/3 Cup) blanched rice; 800 g (1 % Ib, 3 cups) sausagemeat and 1 crushed garlic clove.
Layer the forcemeat and chopped cabbage on the leaves, then fold them around the stuffing in a neat ball. Tie up the net or muslin, plunge the cabbage into a mutton pot-au-feu (or other) stock and simmer for about 31/2 hours. Drain the cabbage, unwrap and arrange on a round dish. Pour over a few tablespoons ofstock and serve hot.
Stuffed cabbage
Blanch a whole cabbage in salted boiling water for 7-8 minutes. Cool it in cold water, drain and remove the stump (core). Moisten a piece of fine cloth or muslin (cheesecloth), wring it out and lay it on the working surface. On top of the cloth, lay four lengths of kitchen thread to form a star shape. Place the
63
Stuffed cabbage
cabbage in the centre ofthe crossed threads and open out the larger leaves one by one. Remove the central heart, chop and mix with an equal volume of fine well-seasoned pork forcemeat. Fill the centre ofthe cabbage with the mixture, then fold back the large leaves to recreate the original shape. On top, place two very thin strips offat bacon in a cross and secure them by knotting the threads over them. Wrap the cabbage in the cloth and tie it up.
Line a flameproof casserole with 100 g (4 oz) bacon, 150 g (5 OZ, 1 cup) diced carrots and 150 g (5 oz, 1 cup) finely diced onion. Put the cabbage on
top and barely cover it with rich stock. Cover, bring to the boi\' then cook in a preheated oven at 2000e (400°F, gas 6) for 1112 hours. Drain the cabbage, unwrap it and remove the strips of fat bacon. (Alternatively, the cabbage may be prepared and cooked in a net, and without the strips of bacon.) Serve the cabbage in a deep dish, keeping it hot, and coat with the cooking juices, reduced by half.
64
Cardoons aLa Lyonnaise
Cardoons
To prepare
Clean the base of the cardoon, cutting off the hard stems. Remove the tender stalks, one by one, and cut into 7.5 cm (3 in) slices; sprinkle with lemon juice. Cut the heart into four and plunge the stalks and heart into boiling water. Bring back to the boil, cover and leave to simmer very gently until tender.
Buttered cardoons
Braise some blanched cardoons in butter for 20 minutes. Arrange in a vegetable dish and sprinkle with roughly chopped mint or parsley.
Cardoon puree
Prepare some buttered cardoons and reduce to a puree by pressing through a sieve or using a food processor or blender. If desired, a third of its volume of potato puree or a few tablespoons ofthick bechamel sauce may be added. Add butter to serve.
Cardoon salad
Cut some cooked cardoons into thick matchsticks. Add some well-seasoned vinaigrette and sprinkle with chervil and roughly chopped parsley.
Cardoons ala lyonnaise
Clean some cardoons, cut them up and blanch them in white vegetable stock. Braise gently in butter. Add a few spoonfuls oflyonnaise sauce and simmer for about 10 minutes. Arrange the cardoons in a dish and serve very hot.
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Cardoons in bechamel sauce
Cardoons in bechamel sauce
Drain the blanched cardoons and arrange on a flameproof dish. Add butter, cover and leave to simmer for 15 minutes. Now add some bechamel sauce and simmer for another 5 minutes. Serve in a vegetable dish.
Cardoons Mornay
Drain the cooked cardoons and arrange on a buttered gratin dish. Cover with Mornay sauce and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and melted butter. Brown in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9).
Cardoons with herbs
Braise some blanched cardoons in butter for 10 minutes. Add several tablespoons ofsauce with fines herbes and simmer for 10 minutes.
Fried cardoons
Drain cooked cardoons and marinate for 30 minutes in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice and chopped parsley. Then dip the cardoons in bauer and deep fry in hot oil. Drain and season with salt.
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Carrot salad with orange
Carrots
Carrot £Ian
Bake a pastry flan case blind and fill with a lightly sweetened carrot puree. Cover with slices of glazed carrot, pouring over their cooking juices, and place in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) for a few minutes.
Carrot puree
Cook 500 g (18 oz) sliced new carrots in salted water to which 1 teaspoon granulated sugar and 1 tablespoon butter has been added. When the carrots are cooked, drain and make into a puree by pressing them through a fine sieve or using a blender. Heat the puree, adding a few spoonfuls of the carrots' cooking liquid if it is too thick. At the last moment, add 50 g (2 oz, 1/4 cup) fresh butter. Mix well and arrange on a vegetable dish. Carrot puree can also be made using the carrots from a pot-au-feu.
Carrot puree with cream
Heat 4 tablespoons double (heavy) cream and add to some carrot puree.
Carrot salad with orange
Put 500 g (18 oz, 3% cups) grated carrots into a salad bowl. Remove the peel and pith from 4 oranges, separate the segments from the membrane and dice the flesh finely. Thinly slice 2 large mild onions and break up the slices into rings. Pour some lemon vinaigrette over the diced carrots just before serving, then add the diced orange to the salad bowl. Toss the carrot and orange and garnish with the onion rings.
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Carrots afa forestiere
Carrots ala forestiere
Braise some carrots in butter, then add half their volume of mushrooms, also braised in butter. Adjust the seasoning and sprinkle with parsley.
Carrots with cream
Cut some old carrots into segments and hollow out the centres. Cook in salted water, and before they become soft, drain, cover with boiling double (heavy) cream and reduce by two-thirds. Arrange in a dish and serve very hot.
Carrots with raisins
Cut some new carrots into slices and fry in melted butter. Lightly sprinkle with flour, then add just enough water to cover them and 1 tablespoon brandy. Cover. Halfway through cooking (after about 15 minutes), add a handful of raisins. Finish cooking with the lid on over a gentle heat.
Crecy SOUp
Scrape 500 g ( 18 oz) very tender carrots, slice thinly and cook them with 50 g (2 oz, 1/4 cup) butter in a covered pan. Add 1 tablespoon shredded onion, a pinch of salt and 1/2 teaspoon sugar. When the vegetables are soft, add 1 litre (1 % pints, 4lf3 cups) beef or chicken consomme, bring to the boil and add 100 g (4 oz, lf2 cup) rice. Cook slowly with the lid on for about 20 minutes, then put it through a blender and strain. Add a few more spoonfuls of consomme, heat and add 25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) butter. Adjust the seasoning. Serve with small croutons fried in butter.
Glazed carrots
Clean some new, preferably fat, carrots, leaving medium-sized ones whole, but cutting large ones into halves or quarters. Place in a frying pan large
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Tajine ofcarrots
enough to hold them all without overlapping. Cover with cold water. For every 500 m1 (17 fl oz,2 cups) water add 25 g (1 oz,2 tablespoons) sugar, 50 g (2 oz, 1/4 cup) butter and 1/2 teaspoon salt. (When old carrots are used, hollow out the centres, scald them and drain, then cook with sugar and butter.) Bring to the boil over a high heat. When the water is boiling briskly, lower the heat, cover the pan and leave to simmer until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. The carrots should now be cooked. Shake the pan so that the carrots are coated with the syrupy liquid.
Glazed carrots may be served with bechamel sauce (add a few spoonfuls ofthe sauce at the last moment), butter, cream (cover with boiling cream and reduce by two-thirds), herbs (sprinkle with chopped parsley or chervil) or meat juices (add a few spoonfuls of roast veal or poultry cooking juices).
Grated carrots with currants
Steep some dried currants in barely tepid lemon juice, then add them to grated raw carrots mixed with well-seasoned olive oil vinaigrette.
Royale of carrots ala Crecy
Cook 75 g (3 oz) carrots in butter over a low heat, adding salt and a pinch of sugar. Stir in 2 tablespoons bechamel sauce and the same amount of cream, and press through a sieve. Bind the mixture with 4 egg yolks, pour into dariole moulds and cook in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 30 minutes.
Tajine of carrots
Put 1 kg (2 114Ib) sliced carrots into a tajine or saucepan. Add 5 tablespoons olive oil, then add 450 g (lib) finely sliced onions, a bouquet of coriander (cilantro), the same amount of parsley, 2 chopped garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon
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Vichy carrots
ground ginger, a pinch each of ground cumin, paprika and saffron powder, 2 turns of the pepper mill and a large pinch ofsalt. Mix, cover and cook over a very low heat for 1112 hours (using a heat diffuser). Just before serving, add 150 g (5 oz, 1 cup) black (ripe) olives and sprinkle with lemon juice.
Vichy carrots
Peel 800 g (I % lb) young carrots and cut into thin rounds. Place in a saute pan and just cover with water, adding 1 teaspoon salt and a generous pinch of sugar per 500 ml (17 fl OZ, 2 cups) water. Cook gently until all the hquld IS absorbed. Serve the carrots in a vegetable dish, sprinkled with small piece of butter and chopped parsley.
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Cauliflower and tomato pickle
Cauliflower
Cauliflower ala polonaise
Divide a cauliflower into large florets and cook in boiling salted water until just cooked (the cauliflower should stay slightly firm). Reshape it in a round serving dish, sprinkle with 2-3 chopped hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs and chopped parsley, and keep in a warm place. Crumble 75 g (30z, about 3 slices) stale bread in 75 g (3 oz, 1/3 cup) melted butter in a frying pan. Fry until golden and sprinkle over the cauliflower; serve immediately.
Cauliflower and tomato pickle
Divide 2 medium-sized cauliflowers into florets and arrange them in layers in a terrine with 675 g (11/2 Ib) firm tomatoes (quartered), 4 coarsely chopped onions and a chopped cucumber. Sprinkle each layer with an equal quantity of salt - a total of about 200 g (7 OZ, 1 cup). Cover with cold water, place a sheet offoil over the top and leave in a cool place for 24 hours.
The next day put the vegetables into a strainer and rinse them under running water to remove the excess salt. Drain and place in a large saucepan. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon mustard powder, 1 teaspoon ground ginger and 1 teaspoon black pepper and add 250 g (9 oz, 1112 cups, firmly packed) brown sugar. Pour in 750 ml (1 1,/,t pints, 3114 cups) white wine vinegar and bring to the boil over a medium heat, stirring frequently. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring, until the vegetables are just beginning to soften but are still firm.
Remove the pan from the heat, put the vegetables in clean jars and completely cover with vinegar. The proportions given will make 3 kg (61/2 lb) pickle. The jars should be stored in a cool, dry place away from the light.
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Cauliflower au gratin
Cauliflower au gratin
Divide the heart into florets and cook them in salted water or steam. Remove, drain and toss them in butter. Transfer to a buttered gratin dish, coat with Mornay sauce, sprinkle with grated Gruyere cheese and melted butter, and brown for about 10 minutes in a preheated oven at 230°C (450°F, gas 8).
Croutes du Barry
Prepare some individual croutes and top with cauliflower florets cooked gently in butter. Coat with Mornay sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese and brown in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9).
Du Barry cream soup
Steam a small fresh cauliflower until it breaks up easily. Put it through a food processor and pour it into a large saucepan. Prepare 500 ml (17 fl OZ, 2 cups) white sauce by adding 600 ml (1 pint, 2lf2 cups) milk to a white roux of 25 g (1 OZ, 2 tablespoons) butter and 40 g (1 1/2 oz, 6 tablespoons) plain (all-purpose) flour. Mix this sauce with the cauliflower and simmer gently for 12-18 minutes. Press through a sieve if necessary. Dilute with a few tablespoons of white stock or milk. Heat and adjust the seasoning. Add 200 ml (7 fl oz, 1/2 cup) single (light) cream and stir while heating.
Du Barry salad
Steam some very small white cauliflower florets for about 4 minutes in a pressure cooker or about 12 minutes in an ordinary saucepan. Drain and cool completely, and heap them in a salad bowl. Garnish with radishes and small sprigs of watercress. Pour some well-seasoned vinaigrette with added lemon over the salad and sprinkle with chopped herbs. Toss the salad just before serving.
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Sauteed cauliflower
Du Barry soup
Cook a cauliflower in salted water, then press it through a sieve (or puree in a blender). Mix with it a quarter ofits weight of potato puree, then add enough consomme or milk to obtain a creamy consistency. Finally, add some single (light) cream - about 150 ml (V4 pint, 2/3 cup) for 5 portions. Adjust the seasoning, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Butter may also be added.
Omelette du Barry
Steam some very small florets of cauliflower. Take them out while they are still a little crisp and fry them in butter. Pour on eggs, beaten with salt, pepper and chopped chervil, and cook like a large pancake.
Sauteed cauliflower
Divide the heart into florets and steam them until they are still slightly firm and do not disintegrate. Heat some butter in a frying pan or saute pan and lightly brown the florets. Arrange them in a dish and moisten with the cooking butter. Cauliflower may also be sauteed in olive oil with chopped garlic.
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Celeriac (celery root), to prepare
Celeriac (celery root)
To prepare
Peel like a potato, rinse and sprinkle with lemon juice. To cook, cut into pieces and blanch for 5 minutes in boiling salted water. To serve as a vegetable, celeriac may be braised, cooked in its juices or prepared as julienne and braised. It can also be prepared as a puree (like cardoons) and as a cream soup. Steamed in slices, it retains all its flavour. Celeriac can be preserved, especially grated and seasoned with vinegar, in pickles, etc.
Celeriac croquettes
Peel a celeriac root, cut it into pieces and blanch. Then cook in salted water for about 30 minutes. Add the same weight of peeled potatoes, cut into cubes, and simmer until cooked. Drain the vegetables and dry, either in the oven or in a saucepan. Pass them through a vegetable mill and mix the resulting puree with egg yolks - 4 per 1kg (2lf4 lb) of puree -- and chopped parsley. Divide the paste obtained into little balls, flatten them out and coat in batter. Plunge the croquettes into boiling oil or fat and leave to turn golden, then remove and drain on paper towels. Serve the croquettes with roast beef, veal, pork, leg of lamb or leg of venison.
Celeriac en remoulade
Peel a large celeriac root, grate it coarsely and blanch for 2 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and refresh with cold water then dry thoroughly. Transfer to a vegetable dish, add remoulade sauce and, if desired, sprinkle with chopped parsley.
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Gougeres with celeriac, celery and cream of caviar
Celeriac julienne
Peel a celeriac root and cut into thick strips. Blanch for 3 minutes in boiling salted water, then refresh in cold water and drain. Put the strips into a pan with a knob of butter and a little sugar, to taste. Cover and sweat for about 15 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and sprinkle with finely chopped herbs. Use to garnish roast meats, fried meats and braised fish, such as cod.
Celeriac veloute soup
Prepare a white roux with 40 g (1 1/2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter and 40 g (1 1/2 oz, 6 tablespoons) flour. Moisten with a generous 750 ml (1 1/4 pints, 3V4 cups) chicken consomme. Blanch 300 g (11 oz) sliced celeriac, and simmer in 40 g (1 V2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter for about 20 minutes. Add to the consomme, bring to the boil and cook until the celeriac breaks up. Reduce to a puree in a food processor. Dilute with a little consomme to obtain the desired consistency and heat. Off the heat, thicken the soup with a mixture of 3 egg yolks beaten with 100 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) double (heavy) cream. Finally, whisk in 75 g (3 oz, 6 tablespoons) butter. Reheat but do not boil.
Doria salad
Dress shredded celeriac (celery root) with remoulade sauce and pile it in a deep salad bowl. Cover with thin slices of white truffle. Surround with a border of cooked green asparagus tips and thin strips of cooked beetroot (red beet) that has been seasoned with vinaigrette. Sprinkle with sieved hard boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolk and chopped parsley.
Gougeres with celeriac, celery and cream of caviar Fit a piping (pastry) bag with a large, fluted nozzle. Prepare choux paste using 100 ml (4 fl oz, 1/2 cup) water and omitting the sugar. Beat 50 g (2 oz, V2 cup)
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Ragout of celeriac
grated Gruyere cheese into the paste. Pipe 4 rings 10 cm (4 in) in diameter and bake in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9). Slice in half horizontally and coolon a wire rack.
Coarsely chop some frisee; season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Cut celery and celeriac (celery root) into matchsticks. Mix the frisee, celery and celeriac with 200 ml (7 fl oz, 1cup) whipped whipping cream and 25 g (1 oz, 1 generous tablespoon) caviar, working very gently with two forks in order not to damage the caviar.
Arrange a circle of lamb's lettuce around the edge of each plate and place the gougere bases in the middle. Carefully spoon the cream mixture on to the bases and cover with the gougere tops. Serve freshly filled, garnished with diced tomato.
Ragout of celeriac
Peel a celeriac root and cut it into small oval-shaped pieces. Blanch these for 5 minutes in boiling water, then place in a flameproof casserole with butter, salt and pepper and let it stew gently, with the lid on, for about 30 minutes. Bind with cream sauce, sprinkle with coarsely chopped parsley and serve as a garnish to roast or braised white meat.
Salade ad'Albignac
Heap some shredded celeriac, dressed with mayonnaise, in a salad bowl or on a platter. Sprinkle the top of the salad with thinly sliced black truffle and around the edge arrange the following: thin slices of poached chicken breast dressed with lemon vinaigrette, prawns (shrimp) dipped in tomato ketchup, slices of white truffle dipped in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper, tiny lettuce hearts, and quarters of hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs dressed with vinaigrette.
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Celery ala milanaise
Stuffed celeriac ala paysanne
Cut some small celeriac roots in half and blanch them. Scoop out the pulp, leaving a lining at least I cm (1/2 in) thick. Dice the pulp and add an equal volume of both carrots and onions softened in butter. Season with salt and pepper. Fill the half celeriacs with this mixture and place on a buttered ovenproof dish. Sprinkle with grated Gruyere cheese and small knobs of butter. Pour 3 tablespoons stock into the dish and cook in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) until browned.
Celery
Braised celery
Drain some blanched celery sticks on a cloth. Tie them in bunches of two or three, and place them in a buttered flameproof casserole lined with bacon rinds or chopped bacon, chopped onions and sliced carrots. Add sufficient stock to cover the vegetables and seasoning to taste. Bring to the boil over the heat, then cover and transfer to a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) to cook for 11/2 hours.
Celery can be prepared au maigre by omitting the bacon rinds and replacing the stock with water.
Celery ala milanaise
Cut the sticks from a head of celery into strips, chop them into small pieces, and cook them au blanc or blanch for 10 minutes. Drain thoroughly and place
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