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VOL. 36
ISSUE 3 MIDWESTLIVING.COM
contents
summer 2022
76
HOME +GARDEN EDITOR PICKS
OUTDOOR BAR CART
PLANTS FOR DRY SHADE
ILLINOIS CERAMIST
LIFE
RED DELICIOUS GRILL MEETS
EDITOR PICKS
The bounty of local WORLD Explore flavors
E-BIKES
ON THE COVER
strawberries inspires from around the globe WESTERN WEAR DESIGNER
A toast to all the the juiciest, rubiest in recipes featuring READER PETS
hosts out there!
recipes of the season. a variety of meats and TRAVEL
Whether you make
vegetables. EDITOR PICKS
our entire strawberry
LAKE ERIE ROAD TRIP THE HIDDEN SPIRIT themed menu (and
ISLE ROYALE NATIONAL PARK
OF THE WILDERNESS UNLOCKING THE
if you do, please tell us!),
EXCELSIOR SPRINGS, MISSOURI
For the 6th annual DOOR Discover the
or crack a few beers
FOOD
Midwest Living secrets of Door County,
on the deck, here’s to
EDITOR PICKS
Road Rally, our editors Wisconsin, with our
you—and to a season
ICE CREAM SANDWICHES
head to North Dakota. town-by-town guide.
of good times under
CEVICHE
the string lights.
ARUGULA RECIPES
KEEPING THE FAITH 4SET TO CHILL
ر DIY MARGARITAS
A Wisconsin family A Minnesota couple
PHOTOGRAPHER RECIPE NOTEBOOK
CARSON DOWNING passes down a love builds a lakeside
PLUS
of gardening to the retreat to share with
EDITOR’S NOTE
next generation. their adult children. #MIDWESTMOMENT
MWL SUMMER 2022
EASY PREP. EASY COOK. EASY CLEAN.
Tough and durable to prevent rips and tears. It’s dinner made easy.
editor’snote
That’s me in the
middle, taking a break with our Midwest Living Road Rally crew along the 144-mile Maah Daah Hey Trail in North Dakota. (No, we didn’t ride it all!)
The sky is full
filled it with ideas for casual gatherings.
Our editors have
of sparkles.
Turn a potting bench into a refreshment
revamped our
I recall my younger daughter’s words as station (page 14), take a world tour of
Best of the Midwest
she cuddles on my lap during our first flavor on your grill (page 70), meet a
outdoor evening of the season. We’ve family that keeps local brews on tap at
travel guide with
managed to squeeze in this hang-out time their gorgeous lake retreat (page 84) or
fresh storytelling,
between swim meets and a dance recital, churn up a batch of Double-Strawberry
fun itineraries, local
and I couldn’t be more grateful. Friends Ripple Ice Cream (page 50). Our executive
are near, the fire crackles and the older editor, Hannah, picked most of the fruit recommendations
kids’ playlist wafts from the speaker. you see in those photos herself, because
and more. Look
a local strawberry, warm from the sun,
for this special issue
I’m fresh off the Midwest Living Road
knows no compare.
Rally in North Dakota (page 56), and as
on newsstands
the logs settle, I share stories of cycling And neither does a star-pricked Midwest
now, or scan the code
through the badlands on the Maah Daah sky—whether you find it over the wild
above to order.
Hey Trail. Each climb revealed a more sweep of the western Dakotas, the remote
enchanting view of the vast landscape. I tip of Wisconsin’s Door County (page 76),
can still feel the lingering tightness in my or your own backyard, where laughter and
quads—a result of not putting in the time to stories ring out around the fire.
train properly for the terrain (or to stretch properly following). It’s a good ache, though, and a ride I eventually want to take again, with the girls.
But for now, I am thankful to be here, KYLEE KRIZMANIC
in this place, celebrating bringing you EDITOR IN CHIEF
another colorful summer issue. We’ve @KYLEEKRIZ
@midwestlivingmag /MidwestLivingmag @midwestliving MWL midwestliving.com
MWL SUMMER 2022
Experience the timeless charm and unrivaled hospitality found only in
Charleston, South Carolina. The perfect stay awaits.
EXPLORECHARLESTON.COM
®
KYLEE KRIZMANIC DEIRDRE FINNEGAN
Editorial Content Director Vice President/Group Publisher
CREATIVE DIRECTOR MARY-BETH ROUSE VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND MARKETING
JENNIFER STAIMAN
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DIRECT MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES Tyler Hub, Breana Tolla CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR Ellen Boeke
MICHIGAN TRAVEL REPRESENTATIVE Richard Konopaske CONTRIBUTING GARDEN EDITOR Teresa Woodard SALES SUPPORT Britta Meier, Kaitlyn Sutton CONTRIBUTING HOME EDITOR Joanna Linberg
TEST KITCHEN PROJECT SUPERVISOR Juliana Hale
APPRENTICES Kim Bates, Jesse Benbrook, Kaili Miller, Grace Nelson
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BUY ME SOME
PEANUTS
COMERICA PARK,
DETROIT
When a Tiger hits a home run, center field fountains put on a show.
AMERICAN FAMILY FIELD, MILWAUKEE
See the Brewers’ Famous Racing Sausages during the sixth inning.
BUSCH STADIUM,
ST.LOUIS
BLACKSMITH COFFEE SHOP, LINDSBORG, KANSAS The Cardinals’ home field
reveals the Gateway Arch beyond the outfield walls.
Travel to Europe—
For our full guide to
Major League parks, visit
minus the jet lag
midwestliving.com/mlb.
Swedish lingonberries in Kansas. German beer in Wisconsin. A Dutch windmill in
SHOW US
Michigan. Skip the pricey airfare and get a
WHAT
taste of Europe closer to home. We’ve found
YOU GOT
eight enchanting towns where the architecture, GET TO KNOW
food, souvenirs and festivals showcase local We love featuring you
mikah meyer
on our feed. If you
heritage. midwestliving.com/globetrot
In 2019, Mikah Meyer became
make a recipe from the
the first person to visit
issue, visit a place we
all 400-plus U.S. National
recommend or just
Park Service sites in a
take a gorgeous photo
single swoop. The trek evolved
somewhere in the
from a bucket list journey
Midwest—let us know!
ONE-STOP SHOP to a mission of promoting
his LGBTQ+ Outside Tag your shots
Hover your phone’s camera to access our
Safe Space initiative. Read #midwestmoment for
complete Summer issue—live! Enjoy all the
the full interview at a chance at a repost.
recipes and stories, plus bonus content,
at your fingertips at any time. midwestliving.com/mikah.
MWL SUMMER 2022
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*
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ALLERGIES HIT FAST. FREE OF: RELIEVES ITCHING & PAIN
GET RELIEF.
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Use products only as directed.
*Do not use more than one diphenhydramine product at the same time. © J&JCI 2022
CREATE YOUR SPACE.
CREATE YOUR MOMENTS.
belgard.com/rooms
When Mom turned a babysitter cancellation into a peaceful night under
the stars — these are the moments that we remember. And these moments are why we created Belgard Rooms to help inspire your next hardscape project.
home garden
“I have a rule when
I’m shopping,” says Danica Gadeken. “If I don’t love it within 60 seconds, I’m
probably not going to love it more later on. Look for something that is love at first sight.”
JOANNA LINBERG, CONTRIBUTING HOME EDITOR
HERB APPEAL
When my pots of herbs start to overflow, I plan to put them to use in
my bathroom, tying bundles of lavender, rosemary and mint (plus some
eucalyptus from the grocery
store) with twine to
hang over my showerhead. The steam releases the leaves’ fragrant oils for some natural aromatherapy.
MIDWEST MADE
FLAG DAY
FEED TO FOLLOW
Summer-camp vibes are
just two small tacks away. @NADINE_STAY
Shout out to your hometown Danica Gadeken is out to lower the stakes on decorating.
or fave vacation spot with The champ DIY-er, former pro furniture refurbisher and
hand-sewn, grommeted design-school grad populates her Instagram and website
duck canvas pennants ($38) with projects of all sizes—like the home remodel near
and flags (from $48) Lincoln, Nebraska, that she and her husband are finishing
by Ohio’s Studio Headlamp. this summer. Add hyperexact instructions to her “you
Get 20 percent off your can do it” attitude, and all intimidation fades. “There’s
first order with code WILD20. something so empowering about transforming something
wildnorthland.com on your own,” she says. nadinestay.com
MWL SUMMER 2022
home+ garden entertaining
at your service
With smart accessorizing, a
potting bench becomes a celebration
station for summer soirees.
bench strength
Choose a unit with lots of counter space and a deep shelf for drink dispensers. The clean lines and galvanized-metal finish of this AmeriHome model complement most styles of
outdoor furniture.
wheel and deal
If your bench is
open below, tuck a cart
under it, like this
one made of InterMetro shelf components. Wheel it out for drink service, then roll back to stow gear— plates can go in a round zippered case.
MWL SUMMER 2022 WRITERGARY THOMPSON
clear choices
See-through
box suggestion
containers let your
Use sleek plastic guests quickly see
Kuggis boxes from Ikea their snack and
to keep glasses beverage options—
and utensils handy. and alert you when
Partitioned Kuggis supplies are running
inserts corral small low. Plus the mix
of visible shapes and items as tidily as
an angler’s tackle box. colors is just fun.
No more fishing
around for matches or
a bottle opener.
go overboard
World Market’s two-tier stand with a handle is tote-ably adorbs. Pair it with an oversize cutting board for charcuterie. (Choose one with a lip that hooks
PARTY PLAYLIST
securely over the
Hover your phone’s camera here countertop.)
to get a list of Midwest-flavored tunes for your summer gathering.
party hardy ware
Whether you’re hosting or guesting, add some panache to the bash.
THIRST AID CARRIED AWAY VINTAGE COOL BAG WITH SWAG
The Pure drink dispenser features This sleek lacquer drink tray Wine may need to chill too. Don’t get half in the bag at the
an acacia wood lid and stand. comes in two shapes and 11 glossy This metal-lined wood trough holds party, but do take bottles of wine in
Fill with punch, lemonade, sangria, colors (square in Cinnabar, a few bottles on a tabletop. Just these reusable nylon totes.
etc. Repeat. $70. westelm.com pictured). $48. annieselke.com add ice. $70. worldmarket.com From $28 for three. baggu.com
MWL SUMMER 2022
Dry soil and low light—two gardening ills, and often, they plague one
problematic spot. An Indianapolis pro prescribes solutions.
DARK DWELLERS
“Shade may be good for humans, but it can be limiting for plants,” says Irvin Etienne, especially
if conditions are dry. He recommends these durable—and striking—varieties.
TAKE THE TRIP
The Lilly House
grounds—known today as The Garden at Newfields— were landscaped in
the 1920s by the Olmsted Brothers firm. (Their father famously designed Central Park.) The
gardens are part of a
campus that also
includes the Indianapolis
Museum of Art.
discovernewfields.org
SIBERIAN BUGLOSS SOLOMON’S SEAL
Also known as perennial forget-me-nots, This resilient perennial’s arching stems and
Brunnerais prized for its silvery, heart-shape leaves teardrop flowers add grace around tree trunks. The
and clouds of tiny blue flowers that arrive plants produce colonies and gradually spread.
mid-spring. Look for rugged ‘Silver Heart’ (pictured) Try ‘Variegatum’ with two-tone leaves (pictured), red-
shady advice
or classic ‘Jack Frost’. stemmed ‘Ruby Slippers’ or dwarf Solomon’s seal.
Keep these tips in
mind when landscaping
in low-light spots.
HELP THEM HYDRATE
In the first year, deeply
water perennials
(1 inch each week) to help establish them. Mulch around plants to conserve water and hold back competing weeds.
WORK WITH TREES
Create planting pockets
around tree roots
and amend those pockets
with compost. Take
care not to bury tree roots,
JAPANESE PAINTED FERN BARRENWORT
which will harm them.
These colorful ferns feature gray fronds offset A little fighter, barrenwort charms with dainty
Selectively remove lower
with purple-red veins and stems. They grow in low “bishop’s hat” blooms in spring and heart-shape
tree limbs to bring more
mounds and spread by rhizomes to form dense leaves that bronze up in fall. Choose ‘Pretty in Pink’
light to a shady spot.
colonies. Consider variety pictum(pictured), silver- (pictured) or yellow ‘Sulphureum’. Boost growth
purple ‘Burgundy Lace’ or extra-large ‘Godzilla’. with compost and regular watering the first season.
PAY ATTENTION
Plants in trickier
BRIGHT IDEA locations simply need
more TLC, so watch
Accent a shady bed (or hide bare gaps in one) with containers of shade-loving for struggling plants. Take
care to water during
plants. Try mixing tropical houseplants with perennial coral bells, or
dry spells and weed
regularly to let in air and
plant a pot of shade-loving annuals like begonia ‘Canary Wing’. “The advantage
light. Deadhead
perennials such as coral
of dropping in containers is it is easier to water,” says Etienne.
bells to tidy them up.
MWL SUMMER 2022
home+garden studio session
true to form
Paul Eshelman and clay are high school sweethearts. An early love of the craft led to an Illinois studio, where he makes boldly hued, clean-lined, purposely not-fancy pieces designed for regular use.
IF PAUL ESHELMANhad been a little bit more into math,
I learned about Edith Heath,
he would have been a biologist. Halfway through his degree, he
who started Heath Ceramics.
realized pottery was his future. After coast-to-coast schooling, he
She made pots during World
and his wife, Laurel, moved to Elizabeth, Illinois, population 713,
War II, when we couldn’t get
to open a studio and raise a family. Despite his out-of-the-way
any from Europe. I was doing
locale, his understated work is sought out and sold the world over.
the process and learning about
GET TO KNOW Interview with Joanna Linberg.
the people doing it—and that shaped my own aesthetic into
PAUL & LAUREL
JLYou live and work in a farm JLHow does a piece come
what was common in the era
town. Has that influenced together, start to finish?
ESHELMAN
they were working in, the
your pottery?
PEThe original piece is a s and 1960s.
Partners in life
PEFor sure, because it plaster form that I sculpt.
and work. Color-
JLYour saturated colors do
lovers. Participate shaped my values. A concept From that form, I make plaster
each fall in Twenty have a midcentury vibe.
of “art for art’s sake” that molds. I fill them with liquid
Dirty Hands, a
kind of ignores the audience clay, which is called casting PEMy pots are kind of quiet,
pottery tour near
Galena, Illinois. is pretty universal now. Many slip, and let it sit in the mold but the colors are not quiet.
artists would subscribe to for maybe 45 minutes. Then I When I was using the brighter
that. I don’t. I see my art and pour out the extra so I’m left colors, I was thinking about
pottery as service to people. with a thin shell. I trim, dry childhood toys, like Legos or
When they’re drinking and finish each one before colored blocks, and that whole
a cup of coffee, rather than firing, glazing and firing again. nostalgia sensibility—kind
Styrofoam, they can use of the joyful, happy feeling I
JLYou’re not throwing
a handmade vessel that will got from those up-key colors.
on a wheel?
enhance the whole experience All the glazes are my own
and bring joy to their life. PENo, slip casting comes from formulations, and I mix them
more industrial roots. I saw a up from raw ingredients.
of work by Eva Zeisel and
JLSo you did become a she was using this process.
scientist of sorts after all!
Russel Wright, too. Even later,
PEThere’s science for sure; mine is more of a technical process. In plaster work, the forms look more engineered than a pot that came from a wheel.
JLWhere do you find new inspiration?
PEMy work is straight ahead, one idea feeding the next idea in a single direction.
Paul Eshelman’s
cheerful glazes have a But books are one thing
soft matte finish.
I consciously go to. There’s
The plate underneath is
one I just got by Hilla and
half-baked, so
to speak—fired, but
not yet glazed.
MWL SUMMER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHERAUSTIN DAY
Ancient geometric principles (the stuff of high school math class) inspired Paul’s Euclid series of
tumblers and mugs.
To create his pieces, Paul pours slip, or liquid clay, into plaster
Bernd Becher. They’re Germans molds—he goes through
it by the gallons.
who photographed mining equipment and blast furnaces. Those shapes are really
dramatic and easy to see. I also have a set of the original Colorforms toys, the geometric shapes that you can play with and stick on a sheet that were done in the 1950s. If I can keep my mind open and not try to
“My pots have clean surfaces
make a picture of a pot but just
and simple decoration in the
kind of play with them, that’s
good for sparking ideas. I do way the glazes emphasize a
know that if you have your eyes
certain part of the piece.”
open, you see things, and that
paul eshelman
inevitably influences the work.
CO-OWNER
JLIn a beautiful essay about you, your daughter, Hannah, wrote: “Craft is not romantic; creation is not mysterious.” Do you agree?
PEMy daughter has a master’s degree in poetry, and my
Playing with
wife, Laurel, is working on the
Colorforms stickers
and Legos helps
same degree right now. I’m
Paul dream up new
surrounded by poets! I think
shapes for cups
Hannah’s right, and I think she and dishes.
got that from me, maybe. She worked in the shop, so she knows the humble processes I use. Once in a while I can step outside myself. For instance,
if I’m looking at a board of STEP INSIDE
cups that are ready to go into Hover your
phone’s camera
the kiln, lined up like soldiers,
to watch a
I get that sense of mystery and
video tour of
beauty, but the mind and my Paul and Laurel
Eshelman’s
hands are mostly concerned
Illinois studio.
with unromantic things.
This conversation has been edited for length and clarity.
MWL SUMMER 2022
life
SUIT YOURSELF
Minnesota pals Alyssa Meyer and Laura Heurung cofounded Wild Isles to help ample-chested women find comfortable, well-fitting swimsuits. The responsibly sourced line features (cute!)
supportive, underwire-free pieces for cups C through H, with stretch for fit. Tops from $95; bottoms from $75. wildislesswim.com
MARY-BETH ROUSE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR
NO SAD LUNCHES
Originally sold from
GIVE BACK
vending machines in
NO PLACE LIKE HOME
Chicago, Farmer’s Fridge
Couches on the front lawn. Cribs in the driveway. When Treger Strasberg asked her Michigan jarred salads and
neighbors to donate furniture for an acquaintance transitioning out of homelessness, she bowls are now also available
found herself with a surplus. So her one-time act of kindness became a new endeavor: With by mail. Favorites like
friend Ana Smith, Strasberg founded Humble Design; her husband, Rob, joined the team, too Southwest Salad or Smoked
(top left). The nonprofit, which has chapters in five states, collects preloved furniture, home Cheddar Cobb arrive
goods and decor, which interior designers curate to fully furnish the new homes of families reliably (almost shockingly)
moving out of shelters. “A bed is not a bed,” Strasberg says. “A bed is a place to dream and fresh. My daughter
feel safe. It’s not just furniture. It’s love. It’s pride. It’s dignity.” humbledesign.org and I have loved every one
we’ve tried. From $6.
As part of our Good Neighbors program, highlighting unique Midwest nonprofits and individuals making our communities stronger, Midwest Livinghas donated $500 to Humble Design. delivery.farmersfridge.com
MWL SUMMER 2022
life live well
electric glide
E-bikes make cycling more accessible to people of varied fitness levels—and yes, it’s still exercise!
IMAGINE THE BREEZEon your face as you sail downhill on a bike. Now picture the ride back up. Aching quads? Not necessarily. That’s the magic of electricassist bicycles. Available in a range of styles, e-bikes have rechargeable battery-powered motors that kick in on slopes or riding into wind. That turbo boost can be the secret ingredient to making cycling a green lifestyle choice. Many people use e-bikes to commute, transport a child or run errands. But they’re also great for recreation, especially with couples and groups.
“E-bikes level the playing field between
riders of different fitness levels,” says Mark Anderson, manager at Speedy Pete’s E-Bikes in Lincoln, Nebraska.
“It’s fun to have a destination and
not tax one person to the point of it not being enjoyable.” Contrary to some misconceptions, e-bikes do provide a low-impact cardiovascular workout. You still pedal, but the motor just frees you to ride farther. (Most models have a battery range of at least 40 miles.) Before investing in an e-bike or a conversion kit, rent one locally or while on vacation. They’re ideal for exploring new places because they ease worries over unfamiliar hills or unpaved paths—and when you’re tempted to see what’s beyond a bend, you’ll have the energy left to find out.
BUZZ BICYCLES NICE RIDE MINNESOTA KOZY’S CYCLERY MEGASTORE
Based in Dayton, Ohio, Buzz’s retro-look This bike-share service in Minneapolis The pros at this decades-old family-owned
WHEELS
Cerana starts around $1,500. For lets anyone rent an e-bike from Chicago business can help you select an
DOWN
errands, the company also makes e-trikes its self-serve stations across the city. e-bike custom-fit to your body. Take a test
with comfy seats and a big rear basket. Pay by the minute to ride. ride outside or on the shop’s third floor.
MWL SUMMER 2022 WRITERKELSEY OGLETREE
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life real talk
who discovered my work. I made him a suit, and he suggested going into
business together.
SL Now you have quite the celebrity following. How did that happen? JLA Post Malone’s stylist found me on Instagram (@unionwesternclothing) in 2017. I had never heard of Post, but I sketched something up, and the stylist liked it. That’s when things really took off. That same stylist was working on the
“Old Town Road” video. We had been
talking about doing something for Lil Nas X for a little while, but she called on Easter weekend and said she needed it in days. I called everyone I knew to help
Quilts, Japanese
cut fringe and set rhinestones.
textiles and tattoos
inspire Jerry Lee
SL Has your success soaked in yet?
Atwood’s designs.
JLA I recently spoke on a panel about
the history of Western wear at the Country Music Hall of Fame. The moderator pointed out that as of October 2021, the video for “Old Town
well suited
Road” had been viewed 1.5 billion times,
likely making my design the most
Meet the Indianapolis designer whose shimmering
viewed fancy Western suit in history. I
Western wear has won a celebrity following. had never really thought about it. Sitting
there looking out into the audience,
I couldn’t help but get choked up.
WITH THE LAUNCH of Union Western but there was something about the
Clothing, Jerry Lee Atwood turned process that really intrigued me.
This conversation has been edited for
a niche hobby into a business. His length and clarity.
SL How did it go from pastime to job? hand-embroidered, rhinestone-studded JLA The more I got into sewing, the pieces garner an eight-month waiting more I realized I wanted to do this list, and they’re full of details that tell professionally. I got a job at the Indiana wearable stories about his clients—a Repertory Theatre’s costume shop and star-studded roster that includes rapper honed my skills. When my son was born,
Lil Nas X, DJ and producer Diplo, and
I was selling work outside the costume NFL player Von Miller.
shop. It made sense financially for me
Interview with Samantha Lande.
to stay home with him and work on
SL So, why Western suits? building my business.
JLA I was an art school dropout in the
SL What was your first big break? late 1990s, trying to find my voice as an JLA I made a suit in 2012 that
artist. An acquaintance told me to check
was presented at an annual
a book he’d found on Western wear.
fundraiser for Second Helpings, Flipping through the pages brought back an organization that provides
memories of going to Nashville with my
free meals for underserved
parents when I was younger. My dad communities in Indianapolis. It would always take us to Opryland and received some local press. Around
I’d watch Hee Haw at my grandma’s
that time, I also designed a suit
house with my family on Sundays. There for country singer Nikki Lane
was a nostalgia factor, so I thought it when she appeared
would be fun to make a fancy Western on Conan. My now
Atwood says people call his
shirt. I borrowed my roommate’s sewing business partner, Joe custom pieces “story suits.” Before
designing a garment, he asks the
machine, bought a pattern and piping, David Walters, is a
client for a photo board of what’s
and made a horrendous Western shirt— Western wear collector important to them.
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GET A TASTE OF
CITY LIVING AT THE HISTORIC
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EL MOORE IN HIP
MIDTOWN.
summer in
the city
Explore vibrant downtowns with year-round markets, world-class museums and historic lodgings offering glitzy views in these four metro Michigan hubs.
FREE & FAB
VISIT THE BEACH AT CAMPUS
DETROIT
MARTIUS
PARK.
BUCKET LIST At the Detroit Institute of Arts,
discover more than
100 galleries
displaying
significant works, including Diego Rivera’s Detroit Industry murals (painted on-site). Now a state
park,Belle
Isle’s numerous
attractions
(aquarium, conservatory, nature center) are all free. Plus
there are plenty of trails and a swimming beach.
after dark
Scan the city (and watch the Detroit Tigers) from the rooftop of the swanky Element Detroit at the Metropolitan,
with prime outdoor seating, firepits and craft cocktails.
BEYOND THE CITY: DEARBORN Allow at least an afternoon to visit the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation, which houses the automaker’s massive collection of cars and a cornucopia of items, such as a 1941 steam locomotive and the bus where Rosa Parks sat to take a stand. Also explore the Wright Brothers’ Home and Cycle Shop in Greenfield Villagenext door.
SPECIAL PARTNER SECTION
GRAND
RAPIDS
IT’S A DATE
Bring your
comfiest shoes and a sense of adventure to experience
ArtPrize
(September 15October 2), where large-scale works can be found
around town. Past locations have been on a bridge and in the river, museums and public parks.
You’ll be part LOVE’S ICE CREAM & CHOCOLATE
of the world’s most attended public art event. Attending fans
FAMILY
mealticket
have a say as to
Open daily, the Grand Rapids
HITS
which artists
STEEL Downtown Market is a mix
win cash prizes, PLAY A pint-size
BEAUTY
of grocery and specialty
entrance invites
including the
THE AMERICAN
the younger set products. Find on-site
$250,000 prize.
HORSE IS
into the children’s
ONE OF 200-PLUS restaurants such as Pho616
SCULPTURES garden at Frederik
for Vietnamese dishes, or
AT MEIJER Meijer Gardens and
Aperitivo serving cheese and
GARDENS. Sculpture Park.
charcuterie. Pop into Love’s
STAY Downtown,
the Amway Grand Ice Cream & Chocolate for a
Plazaand JW
delectable dessert.
Marriottput guests steps away from the
Grand Rapids Art Museumand across
GRAND HAVEN
the river from the
Grand Rapids Public Museum,a fave with children.
SAVE Watch
migrating salmon and other species jump at downtown’s Fish Ladder Parkin late summer.
BEYOND THE CITY: GRAND HAVEN Shops and restaurants line the 1.5-mile-long Grand Haven Boardwalk along the Grand River on the way to the sandy beach and pier of Grand Haven State Park. Evenings end with a serenade by the musical fountain.
SPECIAL PARTNER SECTION
ANN
ARBOR
BUCKET LIST
Restaurants and retail shops surround the
University of
Michigan’s
impressive
campus, known
for its Gothic
style buildings. FREE & FAB
THE ANN
Discover
ARBOR ART
dinosaurs and
FAIR SPANS
other prehistoric
CITY
creatures at the
BLOCKS.
U-M Museum of Natural History;
get messy (or not) creating sculptures at the temporary FUN exhibit at the U-M Museum of Art.
THE GRADUATE
AVENTURA
family hits
PLAYCanoe or tube the Huron River Water Trail. EATSpanish-inspired tapas and Verduras (roasted veggie) paella star at Aventura.STAYThe Graduate Ann Arbor isasmart downtown boutique hotel. FREEU-M
Matthaei Botanical Gardens boasts trails and about a dozen gardens.
BEYOND THE CITY: CHELSEA Step back in time as England’s greatest supersleuths try to solve the mysterious disappearance of two new inventions in the stage production of Sherlock Holmes and the Adventure of the Ghost Machine at Jeff Daniels’ Purple Rose Theatre (now-August 27). For a light dinner and a glass of wine before the show, try nearbyZou Zou’s Cafe.
SPECIAL PARTNER SECTION
meal ticket
Choose from sweet, savory or
FLINT & seasonal scratch-made creations
GENESEE
at Flint Crepe Company. Find year-round vendors and on-site restaurants, like Charlies’ Smokin’ BBQ and Steady Eddy’s Cafe, at
BUCKET LIST
the Flint Farmers Market. Try
The Flint Cultural
upscale entrees (think grilled lamb
Center campus
houses the Flint chops and Bolognese Tagliatelle)
Institute of at Cork on Saginaw, a bank-
Arts (the state’s
turned-wine bar and bistro.
second-largest
art museum),
Applewood: The Charles Stewart Mott Estate, and Longway Planetarium.
Wander the
rose, cut-flower and perennial gardens of the Mott family apple estate, and see sensory-friendly, out-of-this-world shows at Longway Planetarium.
LONGWAY PLANETARIUM
SATURDAY
SPECIAL
THE FLINT INSTITUTE OF ARTS
OFFERS FREE
ADMISSION.
it’s adate
Nearly 1,000 artists converge in downtown Ann Arbor for the Ann Arbor Art Fair (July 21-23), the nation’s largest juried art fair. You’ll find incredible art and entertainment.
BEYOND THE CITY: FENTON The Relief and Resource Co., a Prohibitionstyle speakeasy, lurks behind El Topo restaurant’s vending machine, but you’ll need to figure out the secret item to gain access. Once inside, order a cocktail—simple, classic or tiki (strong)—while nibbling on cheese and calabrese.
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travel
HISTORY
UNDER THE SEA
Divers, rejoice! A vast swath of Lake Michigan has been designated as the Wisconsin Shipwreck Coast National Marine Sanctuary. This 962-square-mile area holds a trove of
maritime heritage, including 36 shipwrecks (of which 27 are on the National Register of Historic Places). The newly protected
waters are expected to bring a flood of tourism and recreation.
NEW
PLEASE TOUCH
A new permanent
art gallery in Wichita is the first created by and for blind or visually impaired artists in the United States. Patrons are encouraged to interact with the tactile pieces using senses beyond just sight. Funded by
DINING
Envision, a nonprofit that
OPTICAL ILLUSION furthers opportunities
No, your eyes aren’t deceiving you: That’s not a drawing. It’s a real cafe, meant to look like for the visually impaired, the
a drawing. Are you following? 2d Restaurant in Chicago is the first of its kind in the Midwest, Envision Arts Gallery also
and one of only a few in the U.S. Monochromatic hand-drawn designs cover every surface, includes navigational tape,
creating the illusion of stepping into a whimsical French storybook. The cafes are popular in Braille cards and QR
Asia (any To All the Boys I’ve Loved Beforefans here?), so 2d’s owners, Kevin Yu and Vanessa codes for audio descriptions.
Thanh Vu, nod to that with mochi donuts and Vietnamese coffee. d-restaurant.com envisionus.com
MWL SUMMER 2022
travel journey
take me to
the water
A nostalgia-fueled road trip along Lake Erie hops among towns and beaches— and among treasures old and new.
SNAP SHOT
HE MEMORY UNFOLDSwith warm and
Instagram darling
vivid clarity. My mom closes the picnic Marblehead
Lighthouse turns
basket lid, careful not to crush the
LAKE ERIE
this year. Climb
hot dog buns. My dad stows our
to the observation
MARBLEHEAD deck for sweeping
luggage in the station wagon. I repack my
LIGHTHOUSE
views of the lake
beach bag, making sure my swimsuit and
SANDUSKY and islands.
flip-flops match because even at age 10, it’s
PORT
fashion first. And off we head to Lake Erie for a
CLINTON VERMILION
weekend vacation. Our agenda seldom varies:
HURON
a beachside lunch followed by a brisk dip in the
lake; visits to lighthouses where my dad insists we learn each beacon’s history … again;
OHIO
shopping at Cheesehaven for peanut butter fudge and exotic (to us) cheeses; and an
exhilarating day at Cedar Point, racing from
giant slide to fun house, hoping I’ll be tall enough to ride the roller coasters next year.
MWL SUMMER 2022 WRITERCYNTHIA EARHART
Though we didn’t really stray far from our home in northwest Ohio’s farm country, those simple trips felt like adventures to a distant land. I wonder, does today’s Lake Erie still hold the allure of my gauzy memories? To find out, I load my car with an overpacked suitcase
(because it’s still fashion first) and set out to
chase the vacation of my youth.
Lake Erie’s Ohio coast spans 312 miles, but
it’s a 50-or-so-mile stretch, roughly midway
FARMER JONES
between Toledo and Cleveland, that has drawn
FARM
families like mine for generations. The scenery toggles among quaint towns—Port Clinton,
Sandusky, Huron, Vermilion—sandy beach,
CHOW DOWN
lighthouses, rocky breakwaters, farmland and serene Catawba Island lures craft beer fans.
Surrounded by
marshy forests teeming with wildlife. Cedar Point in Sandusky remains roller coaster rock gardens and
a 60-acre farm,
For me, it also flips between nostalgic central (albeit with wilder rides these days),
Twin Oast Brewing
haunts and fresh discoveries. Climate change and its historic Hotel Breakers looks sharp
in Port Clinton has
has, sadly, eroded some of the shore, but I see following a recent revamp. outdoor seating
and a full food
many familiar slips of beach. (And in Huron, I In Port Clinton, I find Cheesehaven in the
menu, with pizzas,
stumble upon one I don’t know: Nickel Plate same area it’s been in since 1949, now catering
sandwiches and
Beach, a tucked-away delight.) Big Ed’s Main to third and fourth generations of shoppers. German-influenced
appetizers.
Street Soda Grill still scoops ice cream in “We have a lot of customers that we see every
Vermilion’s town square, a counterpoint to the year,” says owner Tom Geisheimer. “Fishermen,
refined French fare I find at Chez François just campers, boaters, people who have cottages
steps away. Lovers of lake perch and walleye up here. There’s a real history.” He’s right.
continue to flock to Port Clinton’s Jolly Roger’s Even with all the new finds—and even if you let
Seafood House, while Twin Oast Brewing on a couple of decades lapse between visits.
DAILY
DOWNWARD DOG
MWL SUMMER 2022
travel journey
EASTERN TOWNS
VERMILION AND HURON
Closer to Cleveland, this side of the region has a quiet beach for
paddling, hidden culinary delights and a quirky jailhouse inn.
Stop by the Main Street BEAGLE BAY KNOT WORKS
Vermilion office to pick sells bracelets and decor
up a guide to THE POSTCARD made from nautical rope
PROJECT—15 outdoor tied with age-old mariners’
vintage postcard murals knots. After a 35-year
perfect for selfies. Shop break, FARMER JONES
for nautical-themed totes FARM AT THE CHEF’S
and tees at ERIE AND GARDENreopened just
ANCHORand local art at south of Huron, selling fancy
BURNING RIVER BOUTIQUE. jams, dry goods and
View Vermilion’s New gourmet vegetables from
England-esque charms from The Chef’s Garden, a locally
the water with a narrated famous farm that supplies
cruise aboard the MYSTIC high-end produce to
BELLE.At MAIN STREET restaurants.
BEACH,visit VERMILION
LIGHTHOUSE,a replica of CHEZ FRANاOIS
the 1877 original, or join a in Vermilion offers
beach yoga class with classic French cuisine, a
DAILY DOWNWARD DOG. refined wine list, impeccable
POST IT
At NICKEL PLATE BEACH service and marina views
In Vermilion, The
in Huron, you can rent (and a strict dress code Postcard Project
reimagines vintage
inflatables, kayaks and of jackets for men, no
postcards—some
other beachy gear from shorts or jeans). TOUCHة
more than 100 years
THE PADDLE SHACK. next door is a less formal old—as murals.
Organizers selected
Trek down the Huron Pier to tavern-style option. BIG
the images from
view Art Deco-style HURON ED’S MAIN STREET SODA
nearly 10,000 cards
LIGHTHOUSE,operational GRILLhas been dishing shared by the
town’s residents.
since 1936. Downtown’s banana splits and phosphates
CHEZ FRANاOIS
for over 20 years, while Pack a taste for
BREWED AWAKENINGis history—and the
a newer stop downtown macabre—for your stay
for bagels, panini and at THE OLD VERMILION
expertly crafted coffees. JAILHOUSE BED AND
In Huron and Sandusky, BREAKFAST.Guests can
BERARDI’S RESTAURANT book a night behind bars
serves Italian and (plastic handcuffs
American comfort food, included) in a four-cell
including the famous stone jail with a prime
Berardi family plank-style downtown location. The
French fries, a thick-cut property sleeps four and
staple at Cedar Point the entire building is
from 1939 to 1978. yours for the night.
MYSTIC BELLE
MWL SUMMER 2022
FROM THE HEARTLAND
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travel journey
WESTERN TOWNS
SANDUSKY AND PORT CLINTON
Find thrills and chilled beer along the western stretch, closer to Toledo and home to Cedar Point amusement park.
Redesigned in 2020,
H
the waterfront
JACKSON STREET PIERin
k , downtown Sandusky is a
G T x fl prime spot for lake gazing
from trellis-hung swings. At Sandusky’s MERRY-GO
ROUND MUSEUM,marvel at
antique carousel animals then take a whirl on a reconstructed 1939 merry-go-round. The
DOCKSIDE CAFE
sprawling LIBERTY
AVIATION MUSEUMat the
Erie-Ottawa International Sandusky has lots
Airport explores Lake of dining options.
Erie’s flight history. Snag a spot on CRUSH WINE
WATERWORKS PARKis BAR’Spatio for a frozen
home to PORT CLINTON wine slushie. At J BISTRO,
LIGHTHOUSE,a restored contemporary fine dining
pyramidal structure built in blends American, Italian-
. Take a sandy stroll and French-inspired cuisine.
along LAKEVIEW PARK’S Enjoy a burger and beer
long, narrow beach running with a fantastic lake view at
adjacent to Port Clinton’s DOCKSIDE CAFE,a walk-up-
main road. CHEESEHAVEN window kitchen and bar
has everything you’d want at Paper District Marina.
for your lake cottage or Newly opened WAKE UP
boat overnighter, including AND WAFFLEin the
house-made fudge, Ohio Marketplace at the Cooke
wines and fixings for a serves sweet and savory
charcuterie board. Liège waffles (made with
JACKSON STREET PIER
VisitFredericksburgTX.com
ROOM
“We have a lot of customers
FOR
that we see every year.
MORE
There’s a real history.”
tom geisheimer
OWNER, CHEESEHAVEN
ARKANSAS’ ONLY
CASINO RESORT
HOT SPRINGS, ARKANSAS 1-800-OAKLAWN • OAKLAWN.COM
Gambling Problem? Call 1-800-522-4700.
IN VIEW
brioche dough) in a sunlit A $50 million
Park yourself (pun
space with a funky renovation in intended) on one of
nine strategically
rummage-sale vibe. Over 2015 brought fresh polish
placed benches in
in Port Clinton, hugely to Cedar Point’s HOTEL
Waterworks Park
popular JOLLY ROGER’S BREAKERS, a 1905 resort for views of Port
Clinton Lighthouse
SEAFOOD HOUSEfries up with a towering domed
and the lake.
Lake Erie yellow perch rotunda. (Peering down
and walleye in platter or from an upper floor is a
sandwich form. Raise a stomach-dropper in its
pint of Old Ohio blonde own right.) Rooms in the
ale or Ship Burner porter Sandusky hotel sport a
at TWIN OAST BREWING, cottage look with pops of
a restaurant and brewery red and aqua. Perks include
tucked away on Catawba three pools, several
Island in a breathtaking restaurants and bars, and
When you’re at Arkansas’s 52 state
expanse of nature. a mile-long beach—an
parks, the possibilities are endless.
enticing amenity whether
Biking trails, scenic hikes, kayaking,
you’ve come for the
championship fishing - it’s all there
coasters or not.
and ready to be explored! Plan your adventure at ArkansasStateParks.com.
MWL SUMMER 2022
BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER
SEEK MORE
ADVENTURE
In Arkansas, every route is the scenic route. Visit The Natural State on your next road trip for miles of rivers, tons of trails and natural beauty
in every direction. Get inspired at Arkansas.com. arkansas.com
2 3
7
5 4
6
MUST-SEE DESTINATIONS FOR
YOUR ARKANSAS ROAD TRIP
COLER MOUNTAIN BIKE PRESERVE
BENTONVILLE
This bike park is just five minutes
from downtown and offers more than 17 miles
of trails for every skill level.
CRATER OF DIAMONDS STATE PARK, MURFREESBORO
BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER
Take a kayak, canoe or raft down America’s first national river. The Buffalo flows freely for 135 miles.
HISTORIC WILSON
Take the Great River Road to Wilson! Find charming Tudor-style architecture and great eats at the Wilson Cafe.
DELTA CULTURAL CENTER
HELENA
The Delta Cultural Center preserves, interprets and presents the cultural heritage of this legendary region.
OLD STATE HOUSE MUSEUM
LITTLE ROCK
Built in 1836, the Old State House was the original state capitol until 1911. See exhibits on Arkansas history and more.
CRATER OF DIAMONDS STATE PARK
MURFREESBORO
Dig for gems and keep what you find, then visit the Diamond Discovery Center to learn more history and geology!
MOUNT MAGAZINE
PARIS
The highest point in Arkansas offers breathtaking scenery and a mountaintop resort with first-class amenities.
FOR EVEN MORE IDEAS,
MOUNT MAGAZINE, PARIS
VISIT ARKANSAS.COM.
travel backroad
a royale adventure
One of the least visited national parks
occupies an island in Lake Superior, where moose
outnumber travelers and wolves roam free.
HE FERRY FEELS A BIT LIKEChristmas morning— taunting me with their white fruit, not yet ripe enough to
dozens of grinning adventurers bouncing off their be plucked. Carrying a heavy backpack, I hear the gently
seats from a combination of giddy excitement and lapping waves beckoning me like a siren’s call: Put the
waves crashing against the hull. We’re heading to Isle pack down and jump in!
Royale, the largest island in the largest freshwater lake in On the trail, I come across a family walking hurriedly in
the world, which also happens to be, historically, the least my direction; they’ve just seen a huge moose less than a
visited national park in the contiguous United States. quarter mile down the path. I scour the woods, but the
Why do so few people visit Michigan’s Isle Royale? It’s not moose has moved on. Though I’m excited at the prospect of
for lack of scenery—more than 200 square miles of forests seeing one of the antlered beasts in its natural habitat, I’m
full of lush birch and balsam firs surrounded by pristine more intrigued to see its primary predator. Just a few years
Lake Superior shoreline—but rather its remoteness. You can ago, gray wolves were almost extinct on the island, causing
only reach the island by ferries from Copper Harbor and the moose population to explode. Since 2018, nearly
Houghton in Michigan or Grand Portage in Minnesota, or by wolves have been brought over from northern Minnesota
seaplane. Ferry rides range from three to six hours. There’s and Canada to restore balance to the ecosystem. With an
little-to-no cell service outside of the park’s small lodge in abundant food source and digs in an uninhabited national
Rock Harbor. Visitors are vastly outnumbered by moose. park, the wolves have seemingly made themselves at home,
It’s one of the last remaining places in the U.S. where the raising at least three litters of pups in as many years. But
wilderness is still, well, wild. for me, the wolves prove even more elusive than the moose.
Upon arrival, I’m greeted with a short briefing at the Once at camp, I finally give in to the lake’s call. Wading into
park’s welcome center before trekking the 7-mile path to the cold water, I feel the soreness fade from thrashed legs
Daisy Farm Campground, where I will spend my first night. as I take in my surroundings. Lake Superior and the island’s
The root-strewn trail follows the shoreline; soothing loon pine forest seem to stretch into infinity, the possibilities for
trills are only occasionally interrupted by the rumble adventure endless. That night, tucked into my sleeping bag,
of an outboard motor. I scramble over a succession of rocky I strain my ears for a faint moose bellow or wolf howl, as the
outcroppings. Thimbleberry bushes line the trail in spots, lapping waves lull me to sleep. There’s always tomorrow.
WRITER ROBERT ANNIS
MWL SUMMER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHER PER BREIEHAGEN
...like that first bite of fresh-offthe-boat seafood, the rhythm of live music, and the view of the setting sun as you finish your meal. Come enjoy the gorgeous views and irresistible taste of the Alabama Gulf Coast.
GulfShores.com | OrangeBeach.com
877-341-2400
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Start planning a
GETAWAY
TODAY
TravelMeredith.com
travel small ton
something in the water
Built on mineral springs, the quaint town of Excelsior Springs quenches
a thirst for festivals, wineries and summer fun.
Be sure to snap a
in the
photo of the iconic sign at The Elms.
know
Impress the locals with your knowledge of Excelsior Springs.
HISTORY LESSON
Excelsior Springs was founded on the discovery of natural spring water. In 1880, a farmer gave his daughter—sick with a form of tuberculosis— the water to drink, and she was eventually cured. From then on, the town became known for its healing waters.
ALL ABOARD
Trolley tours of the area’s wineries and breweries are offered year-round. Favorite stops include Four Horses and a Dog
ocated 30 miles northeast of Kansas City, honoring the town’s history. Open since 1932,
Vineyard and Winery
Excelsior Springs, Missouri, draws city Ray’s has photographs and vintage artifacts on (with live music)
and Dubious Claims
folk for luxe weekends away at The Elms its walls, as well as historic area newspapers
Brewing Company.
Hotel and Spa. In the summer, the town under the glass countertop at the bar.
The latter cheekily nods
of just under 11,000 people swells with festivals to the water’s qualities
HAVE FUN AT A FESTIVAL by naming its beers
that celebrate its three calling cards—wine,
Elixir, Relief and
p.m.Excelsior Springs hosts some of its most water and barbecue.
Therapy. You also can
notable festivals in summer. June’s Wine Festival book private tours.
WAKE UP WITH WATER
showcases 85 wines from 20 wineries across the
DEWEY
a.m.Start your day at the Hall of Waters—
state of Missouri. Waterfest,held in late June, DEFEATS TRUMAN
a 1937 building that distributed mineral
Or not! In 1948,
celebrates the mineral water heritage with
Harry S. Truman fell
water from the springs that fed it.
activities, music, food, a parade and fireworks
asleep in Room 200 at
Though the world’s longest water bar
over the Hall of Waters. In August, more than The Elms thinking he
is dry now (and currently undergoing had lost a close election,
barbecue teams compete at the BBQ
but woke up to a second
renovations), the building serves as
and Fly-In on the River,held at the
term as president (and
the visitors center and a museum.
a legendarily wrong
Excelsior Springs Memorial Airport.
headline). The Truman
SHOP AROUND Suite, by the way, is
RELAX AND UNWIND
now Room 300.
a.m.Browse Excelsior Springs’ Historic
5:30 p.m.In its early days, 134-year
District,where you’ll find eclectic works by a COMEBACK KID
old The Elms Hotel and Spawas a desired
The Elms has had
local artist at Molly Roberts Studio,
destination for its mineral water baths, lush a turbulent history
custom woodwork at Campbell Wood
since its opening in
gardens, exquisite parties and grand balls.
Designs,and libations at Willow . It has twice been
The hotel still boasts posh accommodations
destroyed by fire,
Spring Mercantile,which has
has filed for bankruptcy, and a spa good enough for a president—famous the largest retail selection of Missouri
undergone numerous
guest Harry S. Truman’s favorite treatments
renovations and is
made wines in the state.
included a salt rub and massage. End the night even rumored to be
haunted. (Don’t worry—
GRAB A BITE with dinner in the recently renovated restaurant
the spirits are friendly,
p.m.Grab a burger at Ray’s Diner,a familyor have a glass of wine in the new lobby bar before
hotel staff says.)
owned and -operated restaurant that’s big on retreating to your well-appointed stateroom.
MWL SUMMER 2022 WRITER RACHEL BURCHFIELD
missouri
Truman Home
Family Organizer
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In Kansas, we love fast cars and slow-cooked brisket. We build machines that touch the sky but stay grounded in the things that matter most. We live out loud and embrace the solace of silence. We conquer rocks and celebrate on the rocks. We ride like the wind and live for the water.
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travel out+ about
creative currents
On a trip to Fort Wayne, Indiana, catch a colorful wave of fresh development
and public art—plus a new hotel from the cofounder of Vera Bradley.
PROMENADE PARK
T’S HARD TO FIND A BLOCKin Fort Wayne, Indiana, iconic quilted cotton bags. On deeper reflection,
that artist Theoplis Smith III (aka Phresh Laundry) though, a partnership between Fort Wayne’s OG maker
hasn’t made his mark on. His I Scream Fort Wayne and an emerging creative voice makes total sense,
mural—a bright and unconventional interpretation perfectly capturing the evolving spirit of the city.
of the Allen County Courthouse atop an ice cream cone “We’ve been thoughtful about the artistic elements
being offered to an eager bulldog—enlivens a blank throughout the hotel, as we want them to tell the
brick canvas on the side of a downtown building. His story of our city and the artists who are creating here,”
portrait of KISS frontman Gene Simmons hangs in a Baekgaard says. “We also have works from a revolving
nearby salon, and his installation of paint-dipped frames gallery of students, alumni and faculty at Purdue
brightens the lobby of The Bradley Hotel. “I’m always University Fort Wayne and many other talented people.
looking for new ways to connect to the community,” We envision The Bradley as an extension of the creative
Smith says. “Three years ago, I painted what music looks community, a place where local art is a focal point.”
like—while wearing a tuxedo—with full orchestra Fort Wayne sits at the convergence of the St. Marys,
backing from the Fort Wayne Philharmonic.” St. Joseph and Maumee rivers, with shifting currents
Smith’s urban pop-art style might seem a strange that echo the vibes flowing through the second-largest
pairing for a boutique hotel spearheaded by Vera Bradley city in Indiana. In 2009, construction of Parkview Field
cofounder Barbara Bradley Baekgaard, doyenne of the (home to the TinCaps minor league baseball team)
Bonus content for select readers inILLINOIS / INDIANA / MICHIGAN / MINNESOTA / WISCONSIN
&
WRITERAMY LYNCH MWL SUMMER 2022
travel out+ about
I SCREAM FORT WAYNE SWEETWATER
THE LANDING THEOPLIS SMITH III
WALL ART
kicked off a flurry of expansion, both economic which will open in phases, will reinvigorate the
Theoplis Smith III
and arts-oriented. Among the larger ripples— Broadway corridor between downtown and the is a primarily
self-taught artist
The Landing, a sleek mixed-use development city’s south side with co-working space, a food
who discovered his
that once was a trading settlement integral hall, shops and condos.
passion as a young
to Fort Wayne’s establishment in the late Across the many improvements taking shape, boy growing up
in St. Louis. His
s. At one time home to the city’s first hotel, art remains the cohesive thread. The Indiana
signature style
post office, newspaper and railway station, Arts Commission recently designated Arts
connects pop art,
preserved storefronts on the short pedestrian Campus Fort Wayne (home to the Louis contemporary,
and fine art.
stretch of Columbia Street are now home to Kahn-designed Arts United Center) a Statewide
trendy restaurants and boutiques. The Landing Cultural District. And the city’s growing
also includes thoughtful outdoor space for collection of murals, many fueled by volunteer
landscaped seating areas and fresh-air yoga efforts, provides a road map for self-guided
classes. And of course, many buildings are art crawls. Artist Shawn Dunwoody even gave
wrapped in soaring murals. the community a chance to participate in the
Another project, the 39-acre Electric Works, creation of the Hello, Fort Wayne mural, which
is slated to launch later in 2022 and completely includes outlines of hidden flowers that only
reimagines Fort Wayne’s landmark redbrick appear when activated by the rain—a fitting
General Electric complex. The multiuse space, representation of the city’s growth yet to come.
&
MWL SUMMER 2022
travel out+ about
GREAT THINGS
TO DO IN FORT WAYNE
at stylish CLUB SODAfor selection of products that
cocktails and small plates. support charitable causes
EAT WELL PARK IT
Order a Full Nelson IPA in both in the community
Settle into plush alcove On the banks of the
the airy urban space of and around the world.
seating at the COPPER St. Marys River, PROMENADE
LANDING BEER COMPANY.
SPOONfor expertly prepared PARKoffers a canopy trail,
seasonal cuisine in an intimate permanent cornhole and
CATCH A GAME
wine-cave setting. Nosh on table tennis stations made
INDULGE YOUR Play ball! Head to PARKVIEW
contemporary Asian fare at from concrete, and the
SWEET TOOTH
FIELD to cheer on the Fort
NAWAor Cali-Mexican cuisine Trubble Riverside Cafe.
GK BAKED GOODShas a Wayne TinCaps, the city’s
at MERCADO.Find a spot on
cult following for their minor league baseball team.
THE DECK at Don Hall’s storied
cinnamon rolls and vegan JAM OUT The season runs April
OLD GAS HOUSEfor dinner
hand pies. Chase the through September.
Unleash your inner rock with a river view.
pastry truck around star at SWEETWATER,the
town or find GK at area country’s top online music
LET THE
farmers markets or
VISIT A DINING retailer. The 450,000-square-
KIDS PLAY
INSTITUTION Junk Ditch Brewing
foot facility encompasses
At the highly regarded
FORT WAYNE’S FAMOUS CONEY Company on weekends.
a dizzying selection of
FORT WAYNE CHILDREN’S
ISLANDhas dished up hot instruments, sound booths
ZOO, guests can easily
dogs topped with Coney where you can noodle to your
GET ON THE spend a full day exploring
sauce and chopped onions heart’s content, recording
WATER African, Australian
for more than a century, studios and a kids’ summer
To see the river the way and Indonesian habitats.
arguably making it the oldest Rock Camp.
the settlers once did, rent Cleverly housed in the
Coney stand in the country.
a kayak or canoe from FORT former City Light and Power
WAYNE OUTFITTERS.Or SHOP FOR A CAUSE Plant, SCIENCE CENTRAL
GRAB A DRINK cruise the waterways on In the Jefferson Pointe sparks young imaginations
Sultry summer nights lure SWEET BREEZE,a replicated Shopping Center, GOODMRKT with more than 200
alfresco drinkers to the patio s canal boat. has a beautifully curated interactive exhibits.
BARBARA KNOWS BEST
Here’s how Vera Bradley cofounder Barbara Bradley Baekgaard would spend a night in her hometown: “For a great meal (outside of BIRDIE’S atTHE BRADLEY, of course), I really like CATABLU GRILLE.I always order the salmon and a
glass of Chardonnay when I’m there. For an evening out, the EMBASSY THEATREand FORT WAYNE PHILHARMONIC
are great options.”
BIRDIE’S AT THE BRADLEY HOTEL
&
MWL SUMMER 2022
TM
travel out+ about
TOP HITS
Here are a few of
the artifacts and spaces
at Motown Museum.
ARTIST
MEMORABILIA
In addition to photos and records, you’ll also find legendary costumes and concert memorabilia, like Michael Jackson’s black fedora and silver sequined glove, and a black 1877 Steinway grand
piano frequently played
by Stevie Wonder.
STUDIO A
In this main studio, Berry Gordy, founder of Motown Records, recorded chart-topping hits from The Jackson 5, Diana Ross and The Temptations. See original microphones,
what’s going on pianos, soundboards
and other music gear.
Motown Museum, home to the iconic Hitsville U.S.A. recording BERRY GORDY’S
APARTMENT
studio, is revealing a chart-topping expansion. Tours of Hitsville U.S.A.
include a peek at
the upstairs apartment
where Berry Gordy
OU MAY HAVE HEARD it through the The project will launch in four phases. and legendary musicians
could crash after
grapevine, and it’s true: Detroit’s The first will be Hitsville Next, which will
late-night sessions.
Motown Museum is growing. develop future talent through programming,
During the golden era of Motown, camps, workshops, master classes and
the Hitsville U.S.A. studio (where the museum community events.
is now housed) cranked out legendary songs The second, a plaza outside of Hitsville
in the Motor City. In the 1960s and 1970s, U.S.A., will recultivate the sense of
residential homes were repurposed as studios, community Motown was known for.
offices and other music facilities, sparking Benches will provide seating to enjoy live
a creative fever. And now the area is about concerts or listen to Motown hits played
to see another boom with the museum’s from a surround-sound system. “It will
multimillion-dollar expansion, which will be a place where residents and tourists
create a 50,000-square-foot campus. can come to bask in Motown music,” Terry
Motown Museum opened in 1985 to says. She hopes to bridge the gap between
preserve Motown Records’ history through Motown’s history and younger
memorabilia and artifacts in the original generations by providing a space
buildings. Tours at the popular attraction to “be entertained through pop-up
have been paused since last July to expedite performances and connect with other
the long-anticipated transformation. Robin Motown fans on the very grounds
Terry, Motown Museum CEO and chairwoman, where the Motown sound was born
says $32 million of the $55 million needed and music history was made.”
has been raised, and tours will resume As the Four Tops might say (er, sing),
this summer. “We’ll be there.”
Bonus content for select readers inILLINOIS / INDIANA / MICHIGAN / MINNESOTA / WISCONSIN
&
WRITER BRYAN SHELMON
PHOTOGRAPHER KEVIN J. MIYAZAKI MWL SUMMER 2022
Find Your
DREAM
Bliss in
“America’s #2
GRAND
Best City for
Soul Searchers.”
GO
Livability, 2022
travel out+ about
the buzz
Hot off the minds of Midwest travel writers: a fresh look at
where to eat, drink, play and stay around the region.
Do Good Seafood
SAUGATUCK, MICHIGAN
Executive chef Rick Bower first
EAT & DRINK encountered the principles of sustainable
fine dining at the age of 15, through a
high school program. His passion for acting locally to protect delicate
ecosystems globally is directly
reflected in his menu at Coast 236 Restaurant and Bar in the Lake Michigan town of Saugatuck. Last year, the James
Beard Foundation recognized him with a Feel the Buzz
Smart Catch Leader designation. This MILWAUKEE
chef-driven educational program
promotes the practice of sourcing and Eat, drink and be merry (or super chill)
serving seafood in ways that minimize at these new Milwaukee spots.
harm to delicate ecosystems. That SWEETLY BAKEDAmanda Buhrman
means the menu may not include more couldn’t find low-potency edibles
than two “red list” items—seafood that apart from gummies in Milwaukee, so
is overfished, caught or farmed in she opened the city’s only commercial
unsustainable ways. With dishes like CBD-infusion bakery. Confections like
Torta Time crispy Norwegian fjord trout and scallops macarons (pictured) and shortbread
CHICAGO paired with foie gras, Bower makes it deliver that tiny bit of relaxation.
easily delicious for guests to directly sweetlybaked.com
Say adios to boring sandwiches. support his efforts to protect our DAQ SHACKChoose from 10 daiquiri
Renowned chef Rick Bayless’ fast-casual oceans. coast236.com varieties (a mystery flavor changes
spot, Tortazo, specializes in tortas. The monthly), Jell-O shots or gummy bears
Mexican-style sandwiches are slathered soaked in alcohol. It’s not as college
with black bean spread, stuffed with party-esque as it sounds; you’ll also find
tasty toppings and griddled. Located in food like flatbreads and Sriracha Honey
Even if you’re only flying
Chicago’s iconic Willis Tower (with a Salmon. daqshackmke.com
second location to come in River North), through Chicago, you NOMAD COFFEE BARCoffee comes
the cafe tempts morning commuters with with a kick here. But we’re not talking
can still sample one of
egg-filled tortas and draws the lunch about just a caffeine rush (although
crowd with items like the Crispy Chicken you’ll get that too). The soccer-themed
Rick Bayless’ Mexican-style
Milanesa (napa cabbage, pickled establishment specializes in boozy
jalapeٌos, cotija cheese, avocado- tortas. Swing by Tortas coffee drinks and offers suggestions to
tomatillo salsa, cilantro crema). Salads, “Bend it” (like Beckham) by adding a
Frontera on your next
soups and quesadillas round out the shot to standard coffee offerings.
menu. tortazo.com nomadcoffeebar.com
layover at O’Hare.
Continued on page O&A 14
Bonus content for select readers inILLINOIS / INDIANA / MICHIGAN / MINNESOTA / WISCONSIN
&
MWL SUMMER 2022 WRITERKELSEY SCHAGEMANN
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travel out+ about
Continued from page O&A 10
Hot Off the Grill Pass the Schmear
DETROIT INDIANAPOLIS
Neon red lights. Upbeat music. Bold There was a time when you might have
flavors. A sleek and sexy atmosphere. envied those in Josh Greeson’s inner PLAY
Welcome to Barda, Detroit’s first circle. Greeson, who worked in real
Argentinian restaurant. “Everything here estate, regularly brought his homemade
is touched by a blazing flame before sourdough bagels to holidays and family
it’s plated by one of our chefs,” says gatherings. Fortunately for the rest of us,
Samantha Mera, Barda’s general manager. Greeson turned his hobby into a delivery
“The lingering smells of wood fire, service in 2019 and recently opened a
chimichurri and charred onions are brick-and-mortar shop with his wife,
unforgettable.” Headed up by Buenos Emily. “Downtown Indianapolis was a
Aires-born chef Javier Bardauil (whose bagel desert when I first introduced our
nickname supplied the restaurant’s bagels,” Greeson says. Now, Sidedoor
moniker), the restaurant has a menu that Bagel is the go-to spot for sourdough-
hearkens to Latin roots. Try a strip loin based, boiled-and-baked bagels in
steak with “chimibutter,” saffron rice with fan-favorite flavors like pretzel, spicy
seafood or Peruvian potatoes with cured everything and rosemary sea salt, as well
egg yolk. bardadetroit.com as a rotating selection of schmears.
Summer Song
MILWAUKEE
Get ready to boogie. Summerfest, billed as the world’s largest music festival, returns to downtown Milwaukee in June and July. This year, the festival’s eclectic, multigenre acts include Jason Aldean,
Avril Lavigne, Backstreet Boys, Justin
Bieber, Halsey, Lil Wayne, Wu-Tang Clan and Rod Stewart.
Bop from one stage to another—there are 12 in all—and snap a selfie against the
backdrop of Lake Michigan. By no means an adults-only affair, Summerfest lures
families with extensive food stalls and a newly revamped rainbow-hued park, where rockers-to-be can jam out on interactive musical play sets. summerfest.com
V NU / 5 C F
Summer Flavor Tours OR C DO N O N QU NCY
JUN -AU U
Wine on the Greens
LAKE GENEVA, WISCONSIN
Whether you prefer to pair your wine with fine dining, charcuterie, handcrafted
pizza or barbecue (yes, we said barbecue),
the Destination Geneva National Food and
Book Your uided Flavor our
( ,1&<&20 978 4748
ONE CITY.
Travel along the iconic Route 66 to Springfield, this history-filled capital of Illinois. Experience one of America’s most beloved presidents, Abraham Lincoln. Pick up a complimentary “Explorer Passport” and prepare to engage all of your senses.
One city, two adventures, including twenty sites, attractions, culinary treasures and museums in one passport of memorable fun.
Springfield Convention & Visitors Bureau
VisitSpringfieldIllinois.com | 800-545-7300
Let’s Get Social! #VisitSpringfield
travel out+ about
Wine Festival can make it happen. Held The Journey Back is situated beneath
July 7-9 this year, the festival invites the train tracks that lead to the museum’s
visitors to unwind against a backdrop of German-period railcar, similar to the
verdant green—the golf courses of the ones that transported many Jews to
Geneva National Resort and Club. camps throughout occupied Europe.
Festivalgoers can also pack their clubs ilholocaustmuseum.org
for the weekend, but don’t despair if that’s not you. The Dance Floor—a new putting course with firepits, a taco bar
and cantina, bocce ball, and surround
sound—offers another way to enjoy Say Ahh
summer’s finest days and nights. MINNEAPOLIS
destinationgn.com
Soak, sweat or shiatsu your worries away at the new Watershed Spa and
Baths. “A watershed moment is a turning point, a time when important change happens,” says founder Nell Rueckl, a leader in the spa industry. “We are at
a moment in history when we need deep
healing for ourselves, our communities and our planet.” Occupying 11,000 square
feet of the historic Switch House building in the St. Anthony Main neighborhood, the space emphasizes communal bathing with its soaking pool, cold plunge, steam room and sauna. The spa offers holistic treatments like bodywork, acupuncture
and vibrational sound therapy. Let the
healing begin. watershedspa.com
Never Forget
SKOKIE, ILLINOIS
A sobering new exhibit at the Illinois Bask in the Afterglow
Holocaust Museum and Education Center CHICAGO
allows visitors to virtually walk alongside
a Holocaust survivor as they share their A warm flicker illuminates the faces of a
story and revisit their past. Museumgoers jazz quartet as they launch into “Can’t
don a VR headset to watch one of two Buy Me Love.” The lighting, instruments
powerful films led by survivors George and venue (in this case, a Lutheran
Brent and the late Fritzie Fritzshall. The church) are unexpected for a tribute to
-degree visual and audio experience The Beatles—and that’s exactly the point.
transports visitors to both present-day Candlelight Concerts pop up at diverse
and historic Auschwitz, Mauthausen locations throughout Chicago. Attendees
and Ebensee concentration camps. might hear a string quartet playing
“Seventy years later, you go through this The Four Seasons (or Taylor Swift songs),
again and see places you haven’t seen in a choir trilling gospel classics or a
years,” says 90-year-old Brent. “The jazz ensemble featuring Latin hits. No
places I have seen in VR are completely matter the genre, the juxtapositions and
different from how I remember them mood lighting are sure to delight.
when I was in the concentration camp. feverup.com/chicago/candlelight
When I saw my hometown and my father’s pharmacy, that really hit me emotionally.”
&
MWL SUMMER 2022
Minneapolis reserved solely for staff to plaza, a health and wellness floor, and
craft artisan chocolates. That’s just one of unobstructed views of the Mississippi
the many delights of this sumptuous new River or the city from every room. “Plus
hotel, whose on-site restaurant and cafe culture; sports; craft breweries; and trails
are helmed by award-winning chef Gavin for walking, running and biking—it’s all
Kaysen. At Mara, Kaysen delivers tastes here,” says General Manager Florian
STAY of the Mediterranean; Socca Cafe offers Riedel. fourseasons.com/minneapolis
grab-and-go meals and gourmet pastries. Other reasons to book a stay? The pool
Think Small
INDIANAPOLIS
Small can be mighty—just ask Robin Staten. Growing up in her grandmother’s modest ranch house, Staten felt the power of place: “There was an
overwhelming sensation of warmth and
welcome. It was a small home with an immense ability to make one feel whole and well.” Now, Staten invites guests to
experience those same emotions at Tiny
Urban Escapes, a micro hotel with an anticipated August launch. Located in the vibrant Haughville neighborhood, the hotel’s four suites are constructed from upcycled shipping containers and
emphasize wellness. “Guests should not expect a fast-paced lively vibe,” Staten
says, “but rather a retreat from the outside world.” tinyurbanescapes.com
All Seasons Luxury
MINNEAPOLIS
They had us at Chocolate Room. Yes,
there’s a temperature-controlled room in the kitchen of The Four Seasons Hotel
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ADVENTURE
AWAITS IN WISCONSIN
MORE
TO
EXPLORE
Get out there and experience Wisconsin like you never have before. While the state is most known for iconic cheese and dairy, you can’t overlook the abundance of natural beauty and invigorating adventure for the devout fisher, hiker or adrenaline junkie. No matter how you spend your time, create moments of joy with those who matter most, only in Wisconsin.
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MINERAL POINT
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CASTEL ROCK PETENWELL GREAT RIVER ROAD
LAKES ASSOCIATION
The Great American Road
YOU’RE INVITED! Restore naturally Trip on an All-American Road!
in Castle Rock Petenwell Lakes Welcome Back to the Wisconsin
Region/Central Wisconsin. Learn Great River Road! Grab your
more as you explore! Lakes and fishing gear and make family
rivers; county, state and private memories discovering more
parks; biking and walking trails; species of fish on the Wisconsin
wildlife and scenery; golf; a dude Mississippi River than any
ranch; sports; wineries; lodging; Wisconsin Lake.
camping; activities. wigrr.com
castlerock-petenwell.com
DISCOVER GREEN BAY
Discover a Midwest gem that
CITY OF WEST BEND
will take your travel experience
Get this view
Historic downtown West Bend, beyond legendary. Nestled along
Wisconsin, is a four-season the banks of the Fox River, Green
only one place.
destination filled with boutique Bay provides many outdoor
HIGH CLIFF STATE PARK
shops, exquisite restaurants, adventures. And the dining,
entertainment and lodging. The brewery and winery scene will
Downtown Riverwalk meanders tingle everyone’s palate. Plan
through the business district, your trip to Green Bay today. For more Originals
connecting directly to the stories, visit
greenbay.com
Museum of Wisconsin Art, The FoxCities.org/originals
Bend historic theatre, Eisenbahn
GREEN COUNTY
State Trail, summer music nights
WISCONSIN
and a weekly farmer’s market.
Our master cheesemakers,
visitwestbend.com
brewers and vintners are artists who pour their personal passion
ELKHART LAKE into every wheel of cheese, every
keg of beer and every bottle of Nothing says summer like time
wine. Please your palate as you spent by the lake. An Elkhart enjoy the authentic tastes of
Lake vacation is a bucket list
Green County.
destination for those who have
yet to experience the blue-green greencountywisconsin.info
waters. Enjoy luxurious lakefront accommodations, a flavorful
HAYWARD LAKES
culinary scene, abundant
World-record fish, rich Native recreational adventures and American culture, arts and lively nightlife. Make it your crafts, local dinning, and the most memorable summer yet. best lakeside lodging around.
elkhartlake.com Our trail system keeps outdoor
enthusiasts coming back season
after season. For motorized or
FOX CITIES
silent sports, there is a trailhead Take in the sights and sounds
waiting for you.
of urban downtowns or explore
haywardlakes.com
the shores of Lake Winnebago and the Fox River. There’s no time like summertime in the Fox Cities, a region where originality, creativity
and authenticity run deep.
foxcities.org
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Where Stories Begin
Adventure • Water Sports • Biking
Trails • Nature Centers • Golf
Feel the difference.
VISITBELOIT.COM/FEEL 608.365.4838
Memories Made Here.
From Lake Andrea to Lake Michigan, there are unique attractions in and around Pleasant Prairie waiting to welcome you.
VisitPleasantPrairie.com
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EXPLORE LA CROSSE VISIT PORT WASHINGTON
From seasonal smells and roaring The sun is out, birds are singing.
waves to epic views and festive It’s time for a road trip! We
flavors—ignite your senses with suggest that you head into Port.
the wonder of the La Crosse Region. Our downtown is right on Lake
Get ready to make memories that Michigan, just north of Milwaukee.
will touch your heart with those So, shop, eat, drink, bike, boat,
who matter most. hike, fish or just relax!
explorelacrosse.com visitportwashington.com
LAKE GENEVA STEVENS POINT AREA
It’s Always Been the Place. The See history in action at the
place where sunlight shimmers state’s oldest farmers market
over pristine lakes. Where you’ll and Point Brewery—a staple since
soar in a hot air balloon, golf —along with other breweries,
legendary courses or pamper wineries, and a distillery that
yourself in an acclaimed spa. And make up the Craft Collective.
it’s where generations of families Order up at Ruby, named the
have made treasured memories best coffee in Wisconsin by Food
and timeless traditions. Come & Wine;explore the iconic Green
see why Lake Geneva is the place Circle Trail; see Insta-worthy
worth coming back to time and murals; or attend one-of-a-kind
time again. events you’ll only find here—from
the Energy Fair to Paddlequest.
visitlakegeneva.com
stevenspointarea.com
MINERAL POINT
Located in the beautiful Driftless VISIT BELOIT
Region, Mineral Point, Wisconsin, Visit Beloit for all your seasonal
is a community filled with historic outdoor adventures, including
architecture, inspiring galleries, skydiving, golf, nature centers
studios, charming shops and and water sports. With these
cozy lodging. In Mineral Point, adventures, a memorable foodie
historic buildings are treasured scene, vibrant entertainment
and carefully preserved. Plan and culturally unique arts, you’ll
your “Driftless Weekend” now. be creating stories to remember
for years to come.
mineralpoint.com
visitbeloit.com/feel
PLATTEVILLE
Delve into a rich mining history WASHBURN COUNTY
when you explore Platteville in Nearly 1,000 lakes await when
Southwest Wisconsin. Pick your you visit Washburn County,
way along scenic recreation located in beautiful Northwest
trails, climb to the top of the Wisconsin. Experience a train
World’s Largest “M”—it stands ride, railroad museum, 600-acre
for mining—and discover nature reserve, distilleries, a
shops and family activities. winery and so much more. Make
some memories in Washburn
platteville.com
County. Order your vacation
packet today.
PLEASANT PRAIRIE
washburncounty.org
In Pleasant Prairie, each winding path is unique. Experience the
outdoors year-round, shop the
Premium Outlets, and be a tourist at distinctive area attractions like the Bristol Renaissance Faire and Mars Cheese Castle. Stay with us and explore.
visitpleasantprairie.com
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A drive across the entire state of Wisconsin takes just over four hours. Plan a day or weekend to stop by the many charming towns along the way!
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Every Summer has a
Summers are full of unforgettable memories; from life changing adventures, to the people that you meet and the amazing places you have seen. Discover a destination full of outdoor recreation, delicious dining, live music and breathtaking lakeside accommodations. It’s time to create new memories and it all starts here.
your Getaway to the Lake Awaits
ElkhartLake.com | 877-355-4278
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Your
discovery
awaits.
Pack in the mem ies that will
be, well, legenda y. Sta t y u adventu e at greenbay.com.
greenbay.com
Insta-Worthy
Summer Fun
in the #StevensPointArea
But, don’t only take our word on where to find it.
Get inspired by local experts at StevensPointArea.com
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herd to curd
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www.mineralpoint.com
.987.3201 • #driftlessweekend
LAKE GENEVA
it's always been the place
With the largest freshwater coastline and thousands
of inland lakes, it’s easy to set your cares adrift.
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YOUR GUIDE TO THE MIDDLE OF PURE MICHIGAN ON THE WATER IN MICHIGAN’S
EVERYTHING IN ILLINOIS COLDWATER COUNTRY
What’s your Great Lakes State
The Middle of Everything. Where summer getaway? Whether it’s a car- Home to 100+ lakes, and an outdoor
cities are works of art, nature is a backdrop free island, sparkling shore town, or the waterpark on the lake, it’s easy to spend
for adventure, and small towns can only wild and wonderful Upper Peninsula, the entire day on the water in Coldwater
be described as picture-perfect. This Michigan offers countless destinations Country! Paddle, play, float or fish while
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View or order your FREE Spring/ ColdwaterCountry.com
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michigan.org
Check out our online version at Promo.MidwestLiving.com/Rich-Finds
local strawberries.
SWEET DAVIDS TO THE SUPERMARKET GOLIATHS, THEY’RE FRAGRANT, FRAGILE, FLEETING. HERE FOR A MONTH, THEN GONE FOR A YEAR. THEY EAT LIKE CANDY BUT BRUISE MORE EASILY, BLOOMING STAINS ON FINGERTIPS AND LIPS. AFTER YOUR TRIP TO THE U-PICK PATCH, THE CLOCK ON THEIR PERFECTION RUNS DOWN FAST. SO HERE’S WHAT TO DO: GATHER FRIENDS FOR THE JUICIEST, RUBIEST PARTY OF THE SEASON.
pimm’s cup for a crowd
Made with a gin-based liqueur called Pimm’s No. 1, this old-timey summer cocktail calls for fizzy lemonade and a salad bowl of garnishes—strawberries, cucumbers, oranges and herbs. If it sounds like a drink to sip during a croquet match, you’re exactly right, so feel free to dust off the lawn games for your berry bash.
GREEN LIGHT
MINT ADDS ZING, BUT
SWEET BASIL IS
A NATURAL FRIEND TO STRAWBERRIES: YOUR CHOICE.
RECIPESHANNAH AGRAN
PHOTOGRAPHERCARSON DOWNING For recipes, see page 99.
MWL SUMMER 2022
CHILL OUT
STORE UNWASHED BERRIES IN ONE OR TWO LAYERS BETWEEN
PAPER TOWELS IN AN AIRTIGHT CONTAINER IN THE FRIDGE.
quick-pickled
strawberries
A clever use for slightly jostled or past-peak berries, these tangy gems soak in a simple brine of white balsamic vinegar, sugar, salt and peppercorns. Serve with a charcuterie board or spoon them over toasted
bread with goat cheese, honey
and thyme leaves.
MWL SUMMER 2022
POUR OVER
FOR THE PRETTIEST PRESENTATION, PASS THE DRESSING AT THE TABLE
RATHER THAN TOSS
THE SALAD IN IT.
summer chicken salad with strawberry vinaigrette
Heap a platter with butter lettuce, poached chicken, green beans, avocado, berries, chives and basil. (The cooked components are easily made ahead.) Admire your
creation, then douse it in pink.
EASY FREEZE
Hover your
phone’s camera to get a recipe for a simple freezer jam.
MWL SUMMER 2022
earl grey strawberry shortcakes
Tea leaves speckle the shortcakes and infuse the whipped cream, giving this favorite summertime dessert a pinkies-up twist. (Fun fact: Earl Grey’s floral flavor comes from the oil of bergamot, a knobby Italian citrus fruit. A grating of orange zest in the strawberries echoes those notes.)
double-strawberry
LONG GAME
SPREAD WASHED AND
ripple ice cream
DRIED BERRIES IN A SINGLE
No one really needstwo desserts,
LAYER ON A SHEET PAN.
yet here we are. Because when berry
FREEZE, THEN TRANSFER
season strikes, you lean in.
TO RESEALABLE BAGS.
Sour cream and balsamic vinegar lend tartness and depth to the creamy base; a swirl of glossy jam pumps up the glam. MWL
For recipes, see page 99.
MWL SUMMER 2022
CHURN TIME
AS ICE CREAMS GO, THIS ONE IS SIMPLE: A NO-COOK BASE PLUS PURCHASED JAM.
THE HIDDEN
SPIRIT
of the wilderness
ON OUR 6TH ANNUAL ROAD RALLY, WE DISCOVER THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF A STATE THAT HAS CHARMED ADVENTURE SEEKERS FOR GENERATIONS.
WRITERJULIA SAYERS GOKHALE PHOTOGRAPHERRYAN DONNELL
MWL SUMMER 2022
On a warm July evening, toe-tapping, hand-clapping over the world. In the park’s South Unit, rolling hills,
performers twirled across the stage, a blur of Western deep-cut canyons and lounging lazy bison allow modern
fringe and bejeweled boots moving in rhythm. One lyric explorers to see the allure of a wild North Dakota. In the
hung in the air: “It’s always North Dakota for me.” North Unit, the landscape becomes greener, the views a
The Medora Musical tells the story of the rugged bit more dramatic. Peculiar cannonball formations shape
western North Dakota town that lured intrepid souls an otherworldly, almost Martian landscape. Back on
(one of the most famous being Theodore Roosevelt) Earth, among Medora’s clapboard storefronts, it’s
to hunt, ranch and live among nature. In that same easy to imagine stagecoaches rattling down the street.
spirit, our team embarked on an epic trek of our own— Travelers may even spot Theodore Roosevelt himself.
the Midwest Living Road Rally. Our trip, in partnership (He greeted us with a clap on the shoulder and a slew
with the state of North Dakota, took us from the capital of facts.) He also stars in the Medora Musical, a family-
city of Bismarck to the pioneer town of Medora to the favorite activity (preceded by a pitchfork-cooked
native lands of the Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara (MHA steak dinner) that cues up when the sun sinks.
Nation) tribes. We awoke to sunrises over the badlands, As the cast sang about the allure of the land on
hiked among sandy hoodoos and learned about the that summer evening, an elk appeared on the mountain
colossal creatures that roamed the area eons ago. rising behind the stage. It ambled along, a majestic
One of the region’s biggest draws is Theodore mascot for North Dakota’s natural wealth and the pull
Roosevelt National Park, attracting visitors from all of the wilderness.
BEHIND THE SCENES
Hover your
phone’s camera to see more of our team’s road trip snaps.
THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK
MWL SUMMER 2022
MASSIVE MAMMALS
BISMARCK
Mastodons roamed the land that’s
DAY
now North Dakota after the ice age.
ONE Natives hunted the
huge, cold-loving creatures. You can
NORTH DAKOTA see a real, 12-foot
HERITAGE CENTER AND
skeleton of one at
STATE MUSEUM
the Heritage Center.
Brush up on your state history to start the trip. Learn about North Dakota’s early inhabitants (hint: they’re prehistoric), Native American populations and economic influence. Make sure to look for Sitting Bull’s portrait, infamously slashed by police during an
invasion of his home.
PEDAL TIME
Rent bikes from 701 Cycle
and Sport to see
Bismarck on two wheels. NORTH DAKOTA
Cycle through nearby STEAMBOAT PARK
HERITAGE CENTER
Steamboat Park or Sertoma
Park, both riverfront.
LAUGHING SUN FORT ABRAHAM LINCOLN
BREWING COMPANY STATE PARK
Don’t axe this item from your itinerary. Sip an I Heart ND golden ale while trying your hand at throwing a tomahawk, ninja star or spear
at a wall target.
ART ALLEY
The perfect spot for a photo op in Bismarck is a formerly dull alley now peppered with colorful murals. Find it between 5th and 6th streets.
LEWIS AND CLARK
RIVERBOAT
Take a sunset cruise
down the Missouri River on
an old-fashioned
riverboat. The two-story vessel continues the tradition of steamboating on the river, the primary pathway west before railroad expansion.
A TALE OF TWO SETTLEMENTS Established in 1907, Fort Abraham
Lincoln State Park (20 minutes south of Mandan) is North Dakota’s oldest state park. Once occupied by the Mandan Tribe, the area was known as On-a-Slant (Miti O-pa-eresh) Village because of its unique location on a plain sloping toward the river. Today, you can walk through reconstructed earth lodges that replicate how the Mandan lived. You also can see the park’s namesake 1872 military fort. Take the 1.7-mile Little Soldier Loop Trail for a great view of the Missouri and Heart rivers as well as the city of Bismarck.
MWL SUMMER 2022
&
Get your fix of
breweries, fine dining and trendy bars in North Dakota’s capital.
ART ALLEY
ART FROM THE
STONEHOME
HEARTSeven years ago,
BREWING
a group of art enthusiasts
COMPANY
proposed an outdoor gallery
Come for the Capital Hill
to enliven an uninspiring
Cream Ale or River Otter
downtown alley. They Red, stay for the
wanted the works to reflect stone-baked pizzas.
the Peace Garden State and asked artists to submit proposed designs. See the 22 chosen murals—including a portrait of Sitting Bull by Melissa Gordon (pictured), a map of North Dakota and rows of canning jars—on a walk down Art Alley.
LAUGHING SUN BREWING COMPANY
THE
TOASTED FROG
A meal at this downtown staple must start with the Fried Cheesy Pickles: dill spears wrapped in Havarti and wonton paper.
LـFT
ROOFTOP BAR
End the night with a cocktail and city view.
LEWIS AND CLARK RIVERBOAT
This chic spot is draped in greenery and has firepits for chilly evenings.
MWL SUMMER 2022
MEDORA
DAY TWO
BADLANDS
DINOSAUR MUSEUM
In addition to gawking
over an extensive
collection of gemstones and dino skeletons, watch paleontologists at work at this
museum in Dickinson.
PAINTED
CANYON OVERLOOK
On the drive from
Bismarck, this pullout is
your first stop in
Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Take in a dramatic, colorful canyon and keep an eye out for feral horses.
THEODORE ROOSEVELT
NATIONAL PARK
SOUTH UNIT
The national park (TRNP) is divided into two main units. Along the South Unit’s loop road, you’ll find scenic vistas, short
hikes (no longer than 1 mile), bison and hoodoos to climb among. Look for furry little creatures scurrying in the fields at Prairie Dog Town.
NORTH DAKOTA
COWBOY
HALL OF FAME
Welcome to the Wild West. Learn about North Dakota’s history of rodeos and
TRNP SOUTH UNIT
ranching, see prizewinners’
saddles, and visit a
gallery of bronze sculptures depicting longhorns, horses and cowboys.
POSITIVELY PRESIDENTIAL
MEDORA MUSICAL
Set against a mountain When Theodore Roosevelt first visited North Dakota,
backdrop, the nearly he was struck by the state’s natural beauty. An avid
-year-old Medora
hunter and hiker, he found solace here and eventually Musicaltells the story
established a ranch outside of Medora that he called
of the town and the
Elkhorn. He often wrote of time spent on his veranda,
many adventure seekers
it has captivated. lolling in a rocking chair enjoying a cool breeze on a
summer eve. Today, the site of Elkhorn Ranch is the
ROUGH RIDERS HOTEL
lesser-known third unit of TRNP. No structures remain,
Book a room (eight of
but visitors can marvel at the same bucolic
them are historic) at this
hotel, which also views that Roosevelt enjoyed from his
boasts the town’s only fine- front porch. Just keep in mind you’ll
dining restaurant.
have to travel on dirt roads for about an hour to get there, so a vehicle with four-wheel drive is recommended.
ELKHORN RANCH
MWL SUMMER 2022
TRNP SOUTH UNIT
&
Medora’s culinary scene vibes on hearty Western
fare and family favorites.
TRNP SOUTH UNIT
MEDORA MUSICAL
BOOTS BAR
AND GRILL
Start with baked garlic pretzels and chokecherry jam and wash it all
down with a signature
cocktail in a boot.
PITCHFORK STEAK FONDUE
PITCHFORK
STEAK FONDUE
Cowboys cook steaks on a pitchfork dunked in hot oil at this dinner event before the Medora Musical.
HOT SPOT
The Wind Canyon Overlook in TRNP’s South Unit is known as the best place to watch the sun set. A short walk from the parking lot will lead you to views of the Little Missouri River and badlands.
HATLEE + BRAE
Cool down with flavors like Huckleberry and Black Licorice at this combo ice cream/gift shop in downtown Medora.
WIND CANYON OVERLOOK
MWL SUMMER 2022
MEDORA WATFORD CITY & NEW TOWN
DAY
DAY
THREE
FOUR
MAAH DAAH
HEY TRAIL
Dakota Cyclery is the TRNP NORTH UNIT
area’s only full-service Big views and greenery
bike shop and can outfit characterize the park’s
you for a mountain bike North Unit, where you
ride on the 144-mile Maah might see bighorn sheep
Daah Hey Trail. The and longhorn steer. The
shop offers shuttle service, most unique geological
guided day tours and feature: cannonball
equipment rentals. concretions, perfectly
round boulders that you
CHATEAU DE MORES can climb among.
The 26-room chateau
was the summer home TOBACCO
of the French Marquis de GARDENS RESORT
Mores and his family. AND MARINA
He named the town Medora Perched on the southern
after his wife. Tour the shore of Lake Sakakawea,
building and grounds. this resort and marina
rents boats—like kayaks
and paddleboards—on
POINT TO POINT PARK
Soar on the zipline, one of the largest human-
made lakes in the U.S. play minigolf or float the lazy river at this new
EARTH LODGE VILLAGE
downtown Medora park. The Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara Nation,
MEET TEDDY
also known as the Three
ROOSEVELT
Affiliated Tribes, run You might see the man
this reconstructed village, himself wandering
where visitors can tour Medora’s streets. Catch
and stay in native huts. his daily show at the Old Town Hall Theater.
CULTURAL
MHA
INTERPRETIVE CENTER MOVEMENTOne of the
BULLY PULPIT
Adjacent to Earth many ways the MHA share
GOLF COURSE
Lodge Village, this new
Tee off in an oasis of green. their culture at Earth Lodge
center tells the stories Signature Badlands Holes
Village is through tribal
of the MHA Nation. The 14–16 take you through a
dance. Each dance honors an
center also hosts cultural rugged fairway gorge.
education classes. aspect of nature, inspired by
the surrounding environment. Men and women wear
spectacular ensembles— often hand-sewn and -beaded
BULLY PULPIT
by themselves—and perform
GOLF COURSE
dances representing eagles,
prairie chickens, warriors
EARTH LODGE VILLAGE
or the colors of the
land itself.
&
Hidden gems abound
in the towns of
Medora, Watford City
and Williston.
THE FARMHOUSE CAFE
Croissant French toast with the option of house-made chocolate syrup? You’ll find it in Medora.
MWL SUMMER 2022
MAAH DAAH HEY TRAIL
TRNP NORTH UNIT
CHATEAU DE MORES DOWNTOWN MEDORA
SPELL CHECK
Depending on where you grew up, you might have learned the name of Lewis and Clark’s guide as Sacagawea or Sacajawea. The spelling used in North Dakota is Sakakawea, meaning
“Bird Woman.” The state’s
largest lake bears
her name.
LAKE SAKAKAWEA
BADLANDS SLOW RIDE HULA’S FIRE GRILL MEG-A-LATTE
A Hawaiian couple offers Fuel up with flavored teas,
PIZZA PARLOR TEQUILA COCINA
heaping portions of authentic coffees and smoothies at this
Medora’s spot for good pies; This sleek spot in Watford City
island food in Williston. Williston coffeehouse. MWL
try the Badlands Bob serves margarita flights
if you’re a meat-lover. and tasty, inventive tacos.
keeping
ON LAND PASSED DOWN THROUGH
GENERATIONS, A WISCONSIN FAMILY EXPERIENCES—AND SHARES—
the
THE GLORY OF GARDENING.
faith
WRITERGARY THOMPSON
PHOTOGRAPHERBOB STEFKO
MWL SUMMER 2022
sun catchers
Casey and Jason Lawrence built their home knowing the garden would be an extension of it.
“We wanted a garden we could live in,” Casey says. The design lets plants bask in full sun on the south side.
MWL SUMMER 2022
ou could call Casey and Jason Lawrence Pied Pipers Love of the soil is in Casey’s blood—she inherited it from
of gardening. Their biggest followers are daughters her father, Wayne, who farmed land that’s been in the family
Lana and Sayla. But they attract many more online since 1839. Casey grew up working in the fields with her three
via The Lawrence Garden Farm website, YouTube sisters. Now he grows flowers, but she still helps out her
and Instagram, spreading the joy and peace they find parents and sisters at the family greenhouse business. And
cultivating a plant-based lifestyle in southeast Wisconsin. they’re all neighbors: Each daughter built a home on the farm.
“You feel the earth under your feet, hear the breeze rustle Casey and Jason designed theirs for gardening, ensuring views
through the tall flowers and grass, watch the insects jump of—and easy access to—raised beds that stand in neatly
and fly all around you, smell the sweet scent of flowers, and spaced rows. On one side of the house, window boxes overflow
hear the buzzing and chirping of everything wild,” Casey says. with color and texture. Structures are the realm of Jason,
“You are completely surrounded and immersed in nothing who’s from a home-building family and was a botanical newbie
other than nature. It’s a connection that I can’t describe other in his previous life. “I didn’t have any gardening background
than a strong feeling of love in my stomach.” or experience until I met Casey,” he says.
MWL SUMMER 2022
BELOW, CLOCKWISE
The garden’s wide-open layout includes front-yard plantings,
FROM TOP LEFTEach
fruit trees, wildflowers for pollinators, landscaped privacy
week brings new cuttings
berms, a greenhouse, a composting area, and beds by Lana for bouquets, such as
this coneflower and hosta
and Sayla’s play set. Casey and Jason have nurtured their girls
combo. Sayla explores
with the green thumb spirit, hoping they’ll carry it with them
the garden, an at-home
for the rest of their lives. “They don’t have to begardeners, playground and hands-on
science lab for the
but as long as they know how, they will always have a special BONUS BLOOMS
girls. A portable picnic
connection to something bigger,” Casey says. Hover your
table goes wherever
phone’s camera
She calls gardening her form of meditation, an escape from the view is best that day
here to see more
for a family meal. Lana
worldly distractions. “There is nothing else but the moment you
of Casey and
helps out her mom.
Jason’s garden.
are in,” Casey says. “There’s no email, there’s no social media,
Casey says both girls
there’s no drama. There is love, laughter, calm, peace, and like to get their hands—
and clothes—dirty.
connection with the earth and those you love.”
raise the
roots
Casey and Jason chose raised beds mostly for practical reasons—the
site’s heavy clay soil made in-ground gardening a tough row to hoe. “It
would have taken us years to amend it,” Casey says.
MWL SUMMER 2022
ORANGE
CANNA
VERTIGO
GRASS
DRAGON WING
RED BEGONIA
‘PURPLE KNIGHT’ LIBERTY CLASSIC BRONZE
SNAPDRAGONS
SUPERBENA LARGE LILAC BLUE VERBENA
WAVE
PETUNIAS
WORSHIP THE SUN GO A SIZE LARGER START FRESH KEEP HYDRATED
Window boxes became The bigger the box, the Remove any old soil from Check the soil regularly for
window (box)
popular in ancient Rome, better—plants need space the box, scrub the dryness. Casey waters every
where cramped city to develop good root box clean and fill with fresh seven to 12 days in the first
treatment
dwellers had no room for structures. Casey’s boxes potting mix. Blend in a month, then five to seven
CASEY LAWRENCE’S LUSH gardens. If you do as measure 12 inches tall slow-release fertilizer per by mid-July when plants are
the Romans, pick a window and deep. “The more space manufacturer’s directions. more rooted. Every other
WINDOW BOXES WERE A
that gets plenty of direct you have for roots to And leave 1-2 inches watering, she adds a water-
REVELATION TO HER ONLINE
sunlight—most blooming grow, the larger things get, between the soil level and soluble fertilizer. By August,
FOLLOWERS. USE CASEY’S
annuals need at least and the more showy the top of the window she waters about twice a
TIPS TO GROW YOUR OWN—
six hours per day. Casey’s they get,” she says. Include box so you can plant and week, still fertilizing. Add
AND FIND MORE IDEAS AT
boxes face east, but drainage holes so roots water easily. “This step is water until it seeps from the
CASEYLYNNLAWRENCE.COM.
south or west works too. don’t rot in wet soil. crucial,” Casey says. drainage holes.MWL
MWL SUMMER 2022
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO
US TO PASS DOWN THE LOVE AND
KNOWLEDGE OF GARDENING.
CASEY LAWRENCE, HOMEOWNER
night vision
A firepit area gives the family a cozy spot for cooking and cuddling on summer nights. “We light the whole garden up, so I can work once it cools down and take nighttime walks,” Casey says.
MWL SUMMER 2022
WRITERHANNAH AGRAN RECIPES EMILY PASTER
PHOTOGRAPHERCARSON DOWNING
GRILL
meets
BRUSH UP ON YOUR
OUTDOOR COOKING GAME
(BASTE, DOLLOP
AND MARINATE IT TOO)
WITH DAZZLING
SAUCES ADAPTED FROM
A GLOBAL PANTRY.
world
CHERMOULA
HALIBUT SKEWERS
Kabob smarts: Some ingredients cook faster than others, so don’t
SERVED IN MOROCCO alternate them like multicolor beads
AND OTHER NORTH AFRICAN on a string. Instead, segregate your
skewers for perfectly flaky fish, tender
NATIONS, CHERMOULA
zucchini and not-soggy tomatoes.
BLENDS PARSLEY,
CILANTRO, SPICES, OLIVE OIL
AND LEMON JUICE.
The surest way to ward off dry pork is to start with a thick chop. (If a jumbo cut
MOJO dwarfs your appetite, cut the meat from the
bone and share.) The peppy pineapple and
PORK CHOPS WITH
mango salsa almost hogs the spotlight—it’s
FRUIT SALSA
good enough to eat like a salad.
MOJOS ARE A FAMILY
OF SAUCES BROUGHT TO THE CARIBBEAN FROM THE CANARY ISLANDS THROUGH MIGRATION. IN CUBA,
EXPECT LIME AND ORANGE JUICE,
GARLIC, AND OREGANO.
For recipes, see page 1OO.
MWL SUMMER 2022
A cushion of goat cheese adds plushness and tang to a patty seasoned with garlic,
LAMB cumin and coriander. (And let’s address
the sheep in the room—you can definitely
BURGERS WITH
make this burger with ground beef if you
ROMESCO
aren’t a fan of lamb.)
SPAIN'S EARTHY, NUTTY
ROMESCO WHIRLS
TOMATOES, RED PEPPERS, BREAD AND ALMONDS WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA, GARLIC AND VINEGAR.
THINLY SLICED BEEF MARINATED IN SOY SAUCE, ASIAN PEAR, GINGER, SESAME OIL, BULGOGI IS CHEONE OF THE MOST THE KOREAN PENINSULA.
BULGOGI WITH GRILLED ONIONS
You’ll want a grill pan or basket to cook the ribeye strips (because you don’t want to lose a single morsel of addictively sweet and savory steak between the grates). Serve with fluffy jasmine rice and lettuce leaves for wrapping.
MWL SUMMER 2022
I N ISRAELI SHAWARMA,
GRILLED CHICKEN
HUMS WITH WARM SPICES . GARLIC TAHINI IS THIS DISH'S REAL SECRET SAUCE.
CHICKEN
SHAWARMA
Tuesday can have tacos. Make Saturday shawarma night, with a warm pita wrapped around spice-crusted chicken thighs, parsley-flecked Israeli salad and a swoop of the creamiest tahini.
MWL SUMMER 2022
Eat this peak-summer dish as a side or a meatless main. Eggplant and bell peppers
VIETNAMESE are grilled au naturel—all the fun comes
in the finish, when the vegetables are
GRILLED
showered in mint, basil and peanuts and
EGGPLANT
drizzled liberally with nuoc cham.
A LOOSE DRESSING
OF FISH SAUCE,
LIME JUICE, MAPLE SYRUP,
GARLIC AND CHILES,
NUOC CHAM DANCES ACROSS
MWL
ALL THE TASTE BUDS.
For recipes, see page 100.
Door County, Wisconsin
Unlocking
The Door
WITHOUT GIVING UP ON SWEET CHERRY WINE AND FISH BOILS, THE LEGENDARY PENINSULA HAS DISCOVERED ITS COOL SIDE. WE’LL SHOW YOU WHERE TO FIND IT—TOWN BY PICTURESQUE TOWN.
WRITERLAUREN SIEBEN PHOTOGRAPHERKEVIN J. MIYAZAKI
THIS PHOTOAt Cave Point County Park, limestone cliffs unfold into Lake Michigan. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT The brainchild of Wisconsin natives, Twelve Eleven Wine Bar in Sister Bay pours a selection of their own private label wines made from California grapes. Drink them outside, where Twelve Eleven’s firepits and blankets take the edge off the evening chill. Casually elegant Wickman House in Ellison Bay focuses on hyper-local dining, sourcing much of the menu from their own backyard or farms and gardens on the peninsula.
WASHINGTON
ISLAND
ROCK
ISLAND
GILLS ROCK ELLISON BAY
full moon hangs overhead as I drive toward
SISTER BAY
the northern tip of Door County. I’ve come to
EPHRAIM
spot stars—the real kind. One of only 195 places
FISH CREEK
a in the world designated an International
Dark Sky Park, Newport State Park is one of the Midwest’s
prime destinations for catching constellations, shooting
CANA ISLAND
stars and other astronomical wonders. BAILEYS
EGG HARBOR HARBOR
They’re not kidding about the darkness. Even with my car’s headlights on, I have to strain my eyes to see the road.
Once I arrive, I quickly park and kill the engine.
The moon, shining like a stadium light over Lake Michigan,
L ke Michigan
has technically sullied the view. But to my city-dweller eyes, the sky is still inky and clear. I walk a path to the lake and
can tell the location of other people only by their voices.
Waves lap at an invisible shoreline as I approach the water;
STURGEON
BAY
everything feels vast and boundaryless in the dark. I’m
suddenly minuscule, sandwiched between the lake before me and the blinking stars above.
This version of Door County is a world away from the one Once-sleepy towns like Egg Harbor and Baileys Harbor
I entered earlier in the day, with bumper-to-bumper traffic buzz with cafes and breweries. Ephraim, a famously dry
stretching from Egg Harbor to Sister Bay, the peninsula’s village until 2016, is now home to bars and restaurants
tourism epicenter. If you vacationed here as a kid, you serving natural wine and craft beer. You can escape into a
probably remember Sister Bay because of Al Johnson’s—the remote oasis at rentals like the quirky Binkhaven property in
Swedish breakfast-lunch spot with goats grazing on a grass Ephraim—a vintage Nordic cottage surrounded by 13 acres
roof. In the last few years, the log-cabin restaurant has of hardwood forest. The northern outposts of Ellison Bay and
expanded its empire across an entire block facing the bay. A Gills Rock still remain blissfully quiet.
sprawling beer garden offers lawn games and bar food, and But the beauty of Door County is that you don’t have to
a polished gift shop sells Marimekko wares and hygge home choose between the charm of yore and the chic attractions of
decor alongside branded Al Johnson’s hoodies. today, or between bustle and serenity. The taprooms and fine
Visitors who haven’t traveled to Door County since the dining coexist with the sunsets, lakefront trails, clear night
early aughts might not recognize it today. You can still find skies and moments that transcend time.
the lace doilies and cherry pie, but you’ll also discover So pick your flavor: A farm-to-table feast on the patio of a
businesses that cater to a new generation of vacationers— restored farmhouse while you sip a handcrafted cocktail? Or
you’re never too far from a hoppy IPA on tap, vegetable- stargazing with the crickets in the obscurity of Newport State
forward small plates or a stylish Airbnb. Park? For me, that’s easy—I’ll take both.
MWL SUMMER 2022
Egg Harbor
the vibe No longer
just the town you pass on your way north, Egg Harbor buzzes with shops and dining.
eat + drink One
Barrel Brewingfrom Madison opened a taproom here with a massive beer garden and cozy firepits. Soak up your brew with a wood-fired pizza
HATCH DISTILLING COMPANY from Pizza Brosnext
door—pick from a menu of classic pies or build your own. Take your taste buds to NoLa at
VILLAGEbyVILLAGE
Big Easy Bagel and
FLANKED BY LAKE MICHIGAN ON THE EAST
AND GREEN BAY TO THE WEST, DOOR COUNTY Beignet, serving sugar-
STRETCHES FOR 70 MILES. HERE’S YOUR GUIDE dusted beignets.
TO THE TOWNS ALONG THE PENINSULA’S Or dine on traditional
PRINCIPAL ARTERIES—HIGHWAYS 42 AND 57.
Spanish tapas like
Patatas Bravas and garlic shrimp at
Sturgeon Bay
Parador for dinner.
the vibe The region’s gateway has a
do Pick up a bottle
more industrial feel—but also charming,
of whiskey at Hatch
old-timey storefronts.
Distilling Companyor browse shops selling
eat + drink Grab a cherry scone at
fine cheese, olive oil
&J Coffee Houseor a lavender latte at
and gifts. On Friday
Lawlss Coffee and peruse the nearby art
mornings, shop the
gallery. Bluefront Cafeserves the best
Farmers Market at
lunch in town, with indulgent vegetarian
Harbor View Park, a
options like the Portobello Reuben and
great place to later
the Brie sandwich with cherry jam.
watch the sunset.
do On Saturday mornings, the Farm and
Craft Market pops up in Market Square with produce, baked goods and handmade items. Grab a pint at downtown’s Starboard Brewing Company, Door
EPHRAIM
County’s first nanobrewery.
WINE
CHERRIES ART FISH BOILS
DOOR COUNTY
For cherry wine, visit
The tart fruit peaks at Shops and showrooms This 1800s tradition was
Door Peninsula Winery, Red
farmers markets and U-pick of all sizes, including created to serve large
Classics
Oak Winery or Lautenbach’s
orchards in July and August. standbys like Woodwalk groups of Scandinavian
Orchard Country. For drier
We can’t not But you can taste the Gallery and Edgewood settlers. See the fiery
sips, head to Stone’s Throw
mention what made this bounty any time in cocktails, Orchard Galleries, spectacle at White Gull Inn
Winery or Door 44 Winery.
area famous. ciders, salsas and jams. highlight local talent. or Pelletier’s Restaurant.
Fish Creek
the vibe You’re getting the morning, head to Fika Bakery and
into the thick of things now, with scenic Coffeehousefor the drool-worthy case of
Peninsula State Park and a downtown full of pecan sticky buns and gooey cinnamon rolls.
bars, restaurants and boutiques. Order a custard sundae at Not Licked Yet
Frozen Custard,where a secret sanctuary
stay The newly renovated motel rooms at behind the parking lot offers excellent views
Cedar Court Innoffer unbeatable proximity of the herons and ducks in Fish Creek.
to downtown at a modest rate, or reserve
one of their roomier suites or cottages for do Sprawling Peninsula State Parkis
extra amenities like a fireplace or kitchen. one of the area’s most popular destinations.
Anticipate a crowd on the weekends—and for
eat Highlights include Barringer’sfor good reason. Attractions include a lighthouse,
a white-tablecloth dinner (don’t skip the bike trails, a sand beach, an outdoor theater,
decadent layered carrot cake) or pizza an 18-hole golf course, kayak rentals and the
at the original Wild Tomatolocation. In new ADA-accessible Eagle Tower.
EAGLE TOWER AT
PENINSULA STATE PARK
MWL SUMMER 2022
Ephraim
the vibe A tiny bayside town of small plates like flaming saganaki cheese
residents delivers big with sublime and chicken liver mousse. While you wait,
sunsets and fine food. sip a craft brew at nearby Bad Moravian.
Or keep it classic and order carryout from
stay Take your pick of many traditional longtime favorite Wilson’s Restaurant and
B&B’s, or book Binkhaven,a cabin that Ice Creamto eat at a picnic table across the
sleeps up to seven and is memorably street, overlooking the sparkling bay.
adorned with Norwegian rosemaling—a
floral, folkloric painting technique. Do On summer Mondays, the Evenings
in Ephraim Concert Series features local
eat + drink Put your name in for a musicians. BYO blanket or lawn chair and
table at Trixie’s for natural wines and stick around to see colors paint the sky.
TRIXIE’S
Sister Bay
the vibe Little
village, lots to do. The busiest strip in the peninsula draws families, couples and revelers with its quaint waterfront (and cute goats).
stay Make your home
base in one of the minimalist-posh guest rooms at The Dضrr Hotel
downtown. Nosh on a CHARLIE’S SMOKEHOUSE
grab-and-go breakfast on your private patio, then pick up beach chairs and a cooler from the gear room before heading across the
street for sunbathing and swimming in the bay.
eat + drink Watch
the goats munching on the grass roof at Al Johnson’sbefore chowing down on
Swedish pancakes with
lingonberries. Build your WICKMAN HOUSE AL JOHNSON’S
own charcuterie board at the peninsula’s newest wine destination, Twelve Eleven Wine Bar,where
Ellison Bay
the back patio opens up
the vibe Removed from crowds,
into a bucolic wooded
this quietly cool village warrants the drive prairie. When you’re
nearly to the end of the peninsula. ready for dinner, choose
among steak, seafood,
eat + drink Pop into Island
pizza, Mexican, bar grub
Orchard Ciderfor ferments made from and more—you’ve got
local apples and pears. If you only many options.
splurge on one upscale dinner, do it at Wickman House.Seasonal dishes like
do Play a game or two
Sunchoke Farroto, Blackened Carrots at Sister Bay Bowl,
with tomato jam and spicy Fishmonger but brush up on the
Stew will linger in your memory longer basics before you arrive;
than they do on your plate. bowlers keep score by hand at this old-school
do Get into the fresh air at Ellison alley. You’ll feel like
Bay Bluff County Park,where a it’s Christmas in July at
walkway leads to a scenic overlook and
Tannenbaum Holiday
limestone bluffs. On a rainy day, browse Shopwhile browsing
the dense shelves at William Caxton ornaments on trees
Ltd. Books,complete with organized by theme
that irresistible old-book smell. (including zoo animals,
sweets and snowmen).
BINKHAVEN
MWL SUMMER 2022
ISLAND TIME
Discover Door County
beyond the mainland.
WASHINGTON
ISLAND
Take a car ferry from the tip of the peninsula to visit Schoolhouse Beach, Fragrant Isle Lavender Farm and Stavkirke—an ornate church modeled after an ancient one in Norway built in 1150.
ROCK ISLAND
From Washington Island, catch another ferry to Rock Island, a remote
state park with no cars DOOR COUNTY BREWING COMPANY
and no bikes, but plenty of hiking, swimming and rustic campsites.
CANA ISLAND FERRY
CANA ISLAND
Outside of Baileys
Harbor, take a wagon ride on the back of a tractor across the shallow
Lake Michigan causeway. Visit a lighthouse and the new interpretative center, part of
the Door County Maritime Museum.
Gills Rock
the vibe The tourism bug hasn’t yet
bitten this tiny commercial fishing hub.
eat Charlie’s Smokehouse,a 90-year-old
family fish business, sells some of the best smoked fish in Door County. Get there early before they sell out of popular options like Atlantic salmon and whitefish.
do Embark on a Shoreline Scenic Cruises
and Charter boat ride that departs from Gills Rock. Themed excursions include a lighthouse tour or a shipwreck sail.
WHITEFISH DUNES STATE PARK
MWL SUMMER 2022
Baileys Harbor
the vibe The place to be on the games overlooking the lake. In summer, order
peninsula’s east side swaps sunsets over tostones (fried green plantains) and Cuban
Green Bay for sunrises over Lake Michigan. sandwiches from Simply Cuban, a food truck
by Florian II Lakeshore Supper Club.
eat + drink Door County Brewing
Companyhas an outdoor stage for live music do Drive south for a beach day and a
and serves year-round favorites like Pallet hike at Whitefish Dunes State Park. On your
Jack Cruiser and Vacationland. Book a table way in, stop at Cave Point County Park to
for the New England-style lobster boil at admire the limestone cliffs—a geological
Harbor Fish Market and Grille, or enjoy masterpiece created from erosion over the
Neapolitan pizza at Clover and Zot with yard last 400 million years. MWL
CAVE POINT COUNTY PARK
Set to
Chill
LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO GATHER WITH
THEIR GROWN CHILDREN, A
MINNESOTA COUPLE TOOK THE PLUNGE
ON A NEW FAMILY COMPOUND—
SOAKED IN LAKE WATER, DUSTED WITH SAND
AND CHASED WITH CRAFT BEER.
WRITERJOANNA LINBERG
PHOTOGRAPHERKIM CORNELISON
HANG LOOSE
A sprawling, spidery chandelier fits the room’s size without blocking the view. Its organic ripple balances the linear heft of the wood beams and mantel.
KEEP CALM
To give the design staying power, Bob and Mary Dimke chose neutral fabrics, traditional patterns and materials like leather that will only improve with age.
OPPOSITEA firepit sits between the Dimkes’ main house (featured) and the recently remodeled “kids’ cabin.” Days start and end here, the time between filled with swimming, skiing or cruising around Upper Gull Lake for live music and beach volleyball. ABOVE In a great room that’s tall, not wide, double-decker windows and a floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace provide the grandeur. “The footprint is actually pretty narrow and quite small,” says architect Collin Jacobs. “We didn’t want to end up with an elevator shaft. The trusses give a historic tie back to older timber frame buildings and bring the scale down to make it cozy.” The beam dividing the windows conceals privacy shades; the door to the right opens to the patio and dock.
MWL SUMMER 2022
LEFT “I want every space to feel special, yet still flow,” designer Laura Tays says. In the sunroom, vertical planks of varying widths match the color of all the main-level walls, cabinetry and trim (Sherwin-Williams Shoji White 7042), but Tays diluted the paint for a whitewash effect. “It’s not quite as perfectly stark as the rest. You can see knots and cracks and some wood bleeding through.” BELOWTays also built continuity into the swoony laundry room, plucking several design elements from the kitchen—smooth white oak floating shelves, soapstone counters, an unsealed brass faucet that will darken with age and hefty metal hardware.
Textured floor tile mimics the plaid carpet in
the second-level guest suite.
the Dimke family lines up in a row, Every Fourth of July,
and at the shout of Go!,launches into handstands while a friend snaps a shot. The newish tradition makes it clear: Fun comes naturally to this crew. These days, Mary and Bob Dimke and their four adult children (and good-sport in-laws) are flipping head over heels on a peninsula in Minnesota’s Brainerd Lakes region, where the couple recently finished a summer compound. The three
cabins—one new, two remodeled—mark a celebration of sorts.
“The kids were all out of state when we bought the property [nine years ago], so we sat on it for a few years,” Mary says. “When we got the feeling they’d all come back to Minnesota, we went ahead with construction.”
The Dimkes hired architect Collin Jacobs and designer Laura Tays to referee a friendly duel between Bob’s woodsy hunting-cabin vibe and Mary’s light, modern-leaning style. “Mary is drawn to nature, texture, neutral tones and things that are lived-in,” Tays says.
“Bob was more ‘tiny cabin with bear rugs’—very rustic.”
Eventually, Bob came over to Mary’s side (mostly) and the 3,000-square-foot home came into focus. Main-floor living will enable the couple to avoid stairs if needed, while ample secondfloor guest rooms invite visitors. Dramatic windows capture the lake views. Among stylish tone-on-tone neutrals, reclaimed wood ceilings, trusses and beams add a dose of Up North. As Mary says, “Anytime we could bring in wood, that was good for Bob.”
MWL SUMMER 2022
THIS WAS A DREAM HOME TO THEM , A LEGACY THEY WERE
HANDING DOWN TO THEIR FAMILY FOR YEARS TO COME.
LAURA TAYS, DESIGNER
STAIN MASTER
Tays commissioned a custom stain color. She used it at full strength on the skip-planed white oak island and at 50 percent on open shelves in the kitchen and laundry room, as well as living room built-ins.
OPPOSITE BOTTOMThe home’s exterior marries Bob and Mary’s wildly different tastes. Architect Collin Jacobs settled on stone, plus cedar two ways (horizontal planking and shake shingles), portioning out the materials to give the relatively tall structure a less imposing scale. Creamy trim and the roofline’s curved taper soften the look. ABOVEIn the kitchen, corner windows frame the lake view. The plaster-and-bronze range hood faces the fireplace in the adjoining great room, like a twin hearth. To eke out a few extra inches, the island runs lengthwise and breaks into that living space, so Tays gave it a pretty soapstone top and glass-front drawers on the side that faces the fireplace.
MWL SUMMER 2022
ABOVE The guest bedroom’s blue paneling hides
corner storage, accessed through doors disguised in the woodwork. BELOW Tays adhered basket-weave tiles to the vanity wall without any grout to maintain the pattern’s crisp details. (The shower tile is lightly grouted for water protection). BELOW RIGHT A glass-doored built-in serves as a linen closet and medicine cabinet.
“Everything needed to have staying
power,” Mary continues. “I don’t want our kids to have to gut this in 30 or 40 years.
It’s so subtle, you don’t have the ability
to get sick of it.”
But designer Tays is quick to say that subtleis far from boring.She valued real
over faux, and chose materials that would
patinate with use, called “living” finishes in the trade. Natural stone veneer, handmade tiles, soapstone, leather, iron and brass all made the cut, and were put on repeat room to room. “The house keeps getting more beautiful with time,” Tays says.
Even Bob’s antler mounts look good in the calm setting. But if he ever feels the need for a space a little more rough around the edges, he walks 20 steps out the front door and lands in The Doghouse, the family’s stand-alone private pub. The stone-swathed building sits on the site of a former falling-down garage and had to keep the same footprint, so Mary describes the 689-squarefoot structure as “little bathroom, big bar.” Three local craft beers are on tap behind a 14-seat custom iron bar. The lounge revolves around a fireplace, leaving room for a table, where there’s almost always a cribbage game going. But Mary’s favorite spot isn’t The Doghouse or the sun-streaked great room or even the water glittering outside. It’s the upstairs hallway, where
Tays hung a collage of family vacation photos Mary chose. Front and center:
five years’ worth of headstands. MWL
MWL SUMMER 2022
THIS PHOTOThe Dimkes where Mary and her
put the primary bedroom daughters often do
on ground level because, yoga, Tays tried out
Mary says, “We want another wall treatment—
to stay here forever.” exposed wood paneling
With an eye to long- charred using a
lasting style, she asked Japanese preservation
her designer to avoid technique called shou
wild colors and patterns. sugi ban. Gray plaid
So Tays gave oomph to wall-to-wall carpeting,
accent walls in a more cognac leather accents
subtle way, with natural and an antler fixture
METAL WINNER materials like grass cloth. round out the not-s0-
OPPOSITE, TOP RIGHT knotty pine cabin feel.
Black sconces
Above the garage, in a
inject a little edge
bonus guest room
into the serene primary bedroom and echo the kitchen hardware—Tays likes to mix finishes, but never uses
any just once.
SEE THE BAR
Hover your
phone’s camera to glimpse the Dimkes’ private pub, and for a resources guide to the home.
starts with a home.
Whether you’re searching for a house to begin your story or selling one to write the next chapter, every new beginning starts with a home.
Let our affiliated agents help
you find your next beginning. BHGRE.COM
©2022 Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate LLC. All rights reserved. Better Homes and Gardens®, the Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Logo and Expect Better®are service marks owned by Dotdash Meredith and licensed to Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate LLC.
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R
food
For a twist, swap
lime juice for the lemon, and sprinkle with ground ancho chile pepper
STEP ASIDE,
before roasting. Garnish
KETCHUP
with flaky sea salt.
The Sajady sisters grew up dousing rice, eggs and meat in their mother’s Magic Green Sauce, a punchy, fresh Afghan chutney made of cilantro and ginger. Today, the three Minneapolis women (plus Mom) sell a trio of sauces—original, hot and vegan aioli—under the brand Maazah,
Farsi for “flavor.” Trust us, RECIPE
you’ll want to spoon
ROASTED
it on every meal too. $9 for
STONE FRUIT
ounces. maazah.com
Halve and pit 2 pounds
peaches, nectarines, plumsand/or apricots. Arrange on a rimmed baking sheet, cut sides up. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons melted butter,1 tablespoon lemon juiceand, if desired,
2 tablespoons maple syrup. Roast at 375° until tender, 25 to 30 minutes, basting occasionally with pan juices. (If using apricots, wait to add them the last 12 to 15 minutes of roasting.)
To order, visit @kiomi_dsm on Instagram and send Maria Garcia a direct message. From $55.
Maria Garcia stitches the prettiest printed and linen
crossback aprons
at her home in
OVEN T0 … EVERYWHEREFor breakfast, try Roasted Stone Fruit with yogurt or cottage Des Moines.
cheese. Chop it into smaller pieces to layer on toast spread with cream cheese, ricotta or
ERIN KEEFFER, goat cheese. Pile it in a lettuce salad with chicken or salmon. Serve it with grilled pork. Or take
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR it to the sweet side, paired with whipped cream, pound cake or butter pecan ice cream.
MWL SUMMER 2022
food sweet life
watering hole
Indoors or out, pool or lake, swimming releases us from our cares—and stokes a hunger best sated by ice cream. Better keep your freezer stocked.
WRITER LEAH ESKIN
MWL SUMMER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHER CARSON DOWNING
THE POOL WOBBLEDat the bottom of a cavernous, dark green hall. It was splotched with big kids who
shouted and sloshed in the waves. Probably a Minneapolis YMCA, definitely a long time ago. While Mom collected my brother from his swim lesson, I took in the slick skin, the damp air—the chlorine
Ice Cream Sandwiches
sharp scent of freedom.
Use a light touch when you assemble the ice cream
That feeling never faded, even after I got old
sandwiches, as the cookies are a bit fragile.
enough to suit up in polka dots or daisy print for my
HANDS ON20 MINUTES TOTAL3 HOURS 35 MINUTES
own lessons, even after my family decamped for a
quart ice cream, any flavor
new town, where we dashed many times a day to
/4 cup all-purpose flour
the swim club behind our house. Blue crests on top,
tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
black zigzags below, the pool let us jump, splash,
tablespoons sugar
bob. It steadied our handstands, padded our /4 teaspoon kosher salt
somersaults, caught our backflips. It kept the /4 teaspoon baking soda
/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips
adults on the long chairs, stripes pressed into their
tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up
legs, magazines pressed to their faces.
egg yolk
The pool gave us red eyes and green hair. It made
/2 teaspoon vanilla
us hungry. There was a window where you could
.Let ice cream soften at room temperature about trade a dime for a bright orange pack of peanut
minutes. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with
butter cups, and a cart, a scorching tiptoe across
two long 8-inch-wide strips of parchment paper,
the cement, where I always chose the ice cream
crisscrossed and overhanging the pan. Scoop ice cream
sandwich. It came wrapped in wax paper—smooth
into pan and smooth the top. Fold parchment over ice
top, pleated bottom, vanilla-smudged sides. I knew
cream to cover. Freeze until firm, at least 2 hours.
how to peel it in strips, how to bite cleanly so the
.Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
powder-dry wafer didn’t scissor into the cold cream. cocoa powder, sugar, salt and baking soda.
I knew how to make the sandwich last through .Place chocolate chips and butter in a large
microwave-safe bowl. Microwave 1 minute; stir until
our exile on deck, across the endless minutes of adult
melted and smooth. Stir in egg yolk and vanilla
swim, until the cool blue restored us to freedom.
until combined. Stir in dry ingredients.
.Divide dough in half. Pat one portion onto a sheet of parchment paper. Top with a second sheet of parchment. Roll out and trim dough to an 8-inch
The cookies square. Using a fork or docking tool (so fun!), speckle
are richer, crispier dough square with holes. Using a knife, pizza wheel
and a little
or fluted pastry cutter, cut the square in half one
saltier than the ones
way and in quarters the other, yielding eight 4×2-inch
we grew up on—
tiles. Slide tiles (still on the parchment) onto a baking
yet taste nostalgic.
sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough portion. Freeze at least 1 hour.
.Preheat oven to 350°. Remove baking sheets from freezer and separate tiles. Bake until cookies are matte and just set, 11 to 12 minutes. Remove and cool on a wire rack.
.Remove ice cream from freezer. Unfold parchment and use it to lift out ice cream slab. Cut the slab in half one way and in quarters the other, yielding eight 4×2-inch blocks.
.Turn over half of the cookie tiles. Using a spatula,
set an ice cream block on each. Cover each with a second tile, flat side down. Wrap sandwiches in wax paper. Freeze until ready to eat. MAKES 8 SANDWICHES.
PER SERVING386 cal, 22 g fat, 81 mg chol, 207 mg sodium, 45 g carbo, 3 g fiber, 31 g sugars, 5 g pro.
93
MWL SUMMER 2022
food master class
GET TO KNOW
JOSE
SALAZAR
Born in Colombia,
raw beauty raised in Queens.
Owns three (going on four)
Ceviche at home? In the Midwest? Yes and yes.
restaurants with
wife Ann. Personal
A Cincinnati chef shares his bright and refreshing
chef to several
Bengals players.
recipe for the ultimate no-cook party food.
CEVICHE SOUNDS like a dish best eaten on brilliant yellow Peruvian chile paste and tops
vacation, complete with sea breezes and a it with cancha, a crunchy, toasted snack
palm tree. But as chef Jose Salazar deliciously similar to Corn Nuts. Acidic lime juice “cooks”
demonstrates at his Cincinnati restaurant the fish, while chopped pineapple and avocado
Mita’s, if you follow the two most important add sweet and creamy tropical notes.
rules—keep it fresh and keep it cold—you can At Mita’s, named for his Colombian
have ceviche anytime, no matter the view. grandmother, Salazar mostly uses Gulf Coast
“Anywhere there’s a fishing community,” fish: “We call it ceviche del dيa, catch of
Salazar says, “people have been eating raw the day, so that we can source whatever is
fish on boats or right on the docks, simply freshest.” Chill the ceviche for a few hours
marinated.” Italy has crudo, Japan does before serving or enjoy within 30 minutes of
sashimi, and in South and Central America, mixing it together. “That way,” he says,
it’s ceviche, often eaten as an appetizer. “the fish is barely kissed with the acid on the
“Peruvians made it what it is today,” says outside and still raw in the middle. That’s
the chef, who flavors his ceviche with a where having really fresh fish is important.”
WRITERKARA ELDER
MWL SUMMER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHERCARSON DOWNING
Peruvian Ceviche
Cut 11/2 pounds fresh white
flaky fishinto 1/4-inch cubes prep
Black sea bass,
and place in a large bowl; chill. In a small
red snapper,
bowl, place 1 cup chopped pineapple;
flounder, grouper,
mahi-mahi or even
/2 cup thinly sliced red onion;1/4 cup
scallops would
aji amarillo paste;1 teaspoon minced fresh
work. The kind of
Aji amarillo is fish matters
ginger; and 1 clove garlic,minced; chill.
a Peruvian yellow less than its quality
Place 1 cup fresh lime juiceand 1/2 cup
pepper paste. and freshness.
Jose Salazar says, fresh orange juicein a third bowl; chill.
“Flavor-wise, it’s a little like habanero, but without the
When ingredients are all cold,
mind-blowing heat.”
mix
remove fish from refrigerator
sprinkle with 1 teaspoon kosher salt; gently mix. Let stand 1 minute. Add the other chilled ingredients and season with another 1 teaspoon kosher salt; gently
Be kind to your
fold together.Add 1 chopped avocado
ceviche! Fold the
and 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro;
mixture with
care so that the
fold again. Chill ceviche at least
Fresh citrus is as
fragile fish
important as fresh fish.
minutes and up to a few hours.
and avocado don’t
“If you have day-old,
fall apart.
pre-juiced or store
T
bought lime juice,”
Serve cold ceviche in small
Salazar says, “it’ll lend
serve
bowls or over Bibb lettuce,
a bitter flavor.”
with plantainor tortilla chipsfor Plantain chips—
scooping. For a traditional presentation,
made from starchy
garnish with canchaor Corn Nuts. green plantains,
a cousin of the
banana—add a faint
sweetness and
plenty of crunch.
In ceviche, the acid in lime juice alters the proteins in fish, mimicking what happens during cooking. But it’s still technically raw, so use only
Look for cancha
the freshest, high-quality seafood
and aji amarillo in
(and never freshwater fish, which can
Latin grocery stores
carry parasites). Jose Salazar suggests
or online. Salazar
buying sustainable seafood from
likes the brand
Whole Foods Market or a fishmonger.
Inca’s Food.
MWL SUMMER 2022
food key ingredient
rocket science
You say arugula, he says rucola, she says
rocket, and we all say delicious.
(Or if you don’t, our ideas for this green-of
many-names may convert you.)
Our go-to side
salad: arugula,
a squeeze of
fresh lemon, olive
oil, salt and
cracked pepper.
TEST ANCIENT GREEN Mentioned in both the GIVE ME A K Arugula is notable for YOUNG AND OLD Arugula’s flavor can be
Bible and Talmud, arugula has been eaten high levels of vitamin K, a key nutrient for sharp, tart or bitter, depending on its age.
KITCHEN
for thousands of years. Italy claims an blood clotting. People on blood thinners You’ll notice a real difference growing your
TIPS
unwavering love for it over the millennia. can still eat arugula, but maybe not daily. own or buying it from a farmers market.
RECIPESJILL JOHNSON
MWL SUMMER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHSCARSON DOWNING
SIMPLE SIDE
Smashed Potatoes with Arugula Pesto
Preheat oven to 400°. Place and 1/4 teaspoon salt.Process
pounds small yellow or to a paste. Add 1/2 cup olive
red potatoesin a large oiland 2 teaspoons balsamic
Pesto gets an
pot; add water to cover by vinegar.Process until
assertive makeover
inch. Stir in 1 tablespoon smooth. Generously oil a
when you trade the
salt.Bring to a boil; reduce large rimmed baking sheet.
basil for peppery
heat. Simmer, uncovered, Place potatoes on baking
arugula. Toasting
the walnuts until potatoes are tender, sheet; press with a potato
adds depth to the to 30 minutes; drain. masher or glass to 1/2- to
pesto’s flavor.
Meanwhile, for pesto, in a /4-inch thickness. Drizzle
food processor, combine with 2 tablespoons olive oil;
cups packed arugula, sprinkle with salt and black
/2 cup toasted walnuts, pepper.Bake until edges are
/2 cup shredded Parmesan, golden, about 25 minutes.
or 3 cloves garlic(to taste) Spoon pesto over potatoes.
PIZZA NIGHT
MushroomGreens Pizza
In a skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter.Add 11/2 cups sliced mushrooms;2 cloves garlic,
minced; and 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme.Cook until tender,
about 5 minutes. In a bowl, FAST AND FRESH
combine 1 cup ricotta cheese, Lemon Shrimp Pasta
/4 cup shredded mozzarella with Wilted Arugula
and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. In a large saucepan, cook minute. Stir in 1/4 cup
On a floured surface, stretch ounces gemelli pastain cut-up butter,1/4 cup
pound pizza doughinto a 12- salted water according to lemon juice,1/2 teaspoon
inch circle. Transfer to a baking package directions. Before dried basil,1/2 teaspoon
sheet dusted with cornmeal. draining, stir in 1 cup frozen salt,1/4 teaspoon black
Prick with a fork and bake at petite peas.Reserve 1/2 cup pepperand 1/4 teaspoon
° for 5 minutes. Spread cooking water; drain pasta crushed red pepper.Cook
ricotta mixture over crust. and peas. In a 12-inch until butter is melted and
Sprinkle with smoked paprika. skillet, heat 2 tablespoons shrimp are opaque. Stir in
Top with mushrooms. Bake olive oilover medium-high. pasta and peas, adding
until golden, about 10 minutes Add 12 ounces peeled and as much of the reserved
more. Top with 2 cupsarugula. deveined large shrimp; water as needed to make
Drizzle with olive oiland cook 2 minutes. Add 3 cloves it saucy; heat through. Stir
sprinkle with flaky sea salt. garlic,minced; cook in 4 cups arugula.
MWL SUMMER 2022
food sips
shake it up
A traditional margarita calls for tequila, orange liqueur and a tart jolt of lime juice (plus a sweetener, if you like). Stop at that—or start playing.
SWEETEN IT—MAYBE
Our recipe relies on just orange liqueur to balance the pucker. If you find that too tart, adjust to taste with a neutral sweetener. (A little dash’ll do you.)
CHOOSE ONE
RIM THE GLASS +Simple syrup
Rub the rim with a lime wedge +Agave nectar
and dip the rim in salt (or one of
SHAKE!
our alternate ideas). Add ice.
Cover the shaker, hold tightly
CHOOSE ONE
and shake vigorously until the +Kosher salt
outside is frosty. Strain into +Tajيn(chile-lime seasoning)
the glass. Garnish with lime. +Coarse sugar
+Lime wedgesor slices +Cinnamon sugar
PREP THE SHAKER
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. SMASH
No shaker? Use a Mason jar. Here’s where things get fun.
+Ice Cubes If you like, before adding ice,
drop a few chunks of fruit, a slice
CHOOSE A BOOZE or two of fresh jalapeٌo or ginger,
Go with all tequila, or split it and/or an herb sprig into the
with mezcal to add a layer of shaker with the spirits and lime
smokiness. If you’re not a tequila juice. Muddle well, taste for
fan, substitute all vodka. sweetness, then add the ice and
CHOOSE ONE shake. Garnish to match.
+11/2 ounces silveror CHOOSE ONE OR MORE
gold tequila +Strawberries, raspberries or
+3/4 ounce tequilaand blackberries
/4 ounce mezcal +Peach,mango or pineapple
True tequila must be
+11/2 ounces vodka +Cilantro, mint, thymeor
distilled from 100 percent blue
rosemary
agave in specific places
ADD ORANGE +Jalapeٌo
in Mexico—but you can still
buy local. Brands like Una Familia Any orange spirit—such as +Fresh ginger
in Kansas City, Missouri, and
triple sec, Grand Marnier, or
Anteel in Detroit import proprietary
Cointreau—works. For a kitschy
blends of the real stuff.
twist, use blue curaاao. FROZEN
+3/4 ounce orange liqueur For a slushy drink, combine
ingredients in a blender. With
SQUEEZE A LIME machine running, gradually
Skip the bottle. Fresh juice is key. add 3/4 to 1 cup ice cubes
+3/4 ounce lime juice and/or frozen fruit.
CHOOSE ONE OR MORE +3/4 to 1 cup ice cubes +frozen cubed watermelon +frozen cubed pineapple +frozen cubed mango
RECIPEJULI HALE
MWL SUMMER 2022 PHOTOGRAPHERCARSON DOWNING
food recipes
add a little honey if dressing is too tart. in a bowl with sugar and vinegar; toss
Cover and store in refrigerator up to 3 days. to combine. Let stand until juicy, 15 to
.Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. minutes. If the berries are less than
Add beans. Cook until crisp-tender, 2 to perfectly ripe (i.e., from the supermarket),
minutes. Drain; immediately rinse beans toss them with sugar and vinegar in a
with cold water. Drain well. Slice chicken. -quart baking dish; bake at 375° until
.To assemble salad, arrange lettuce on slightly softened and aromatic, 8 to
a platter or individual plates. Add chicken minutes. Let cool completely.
(warm or chilled), green beans, halved .Place berries with juices and sour cream
strawberries, the avocado and pecans (if in a food processor. Process until smooth.
using). Garnish with chives and basil. Pass Transfer to a bowl; whisk in heavy cream,
For main article, see page 50. dressing to serve. MAKES 4 SERVINGS lemon juice, vanilla and kosher salt. Cover
RED DELICIOUS PER SERVING397 cal, 26 g fat, 62 mg chol, 269 mg and chill at least 4 hours or overnight.
sodium, 22 g carbo, 7 g fiber, 13 g sugars, 22 g pro.
.Freeze chilled mixture in a 1.5-quart ice
Summer Chicken Salad cream maker according to manufacturer’s
with Strawberry Vinaigrette Quick-Pickled Strawberries directions. When ice cream is soft-serve
HANDS ON20 MINUTES TOTAL50 MINUTES HANDS ON15 MINUTES TOTAL2 HOURS 15 MINUTES consistency, transfer to a freezer container
in scoops, adding spoonfuls of jam as you
to 16 ounces skinless, boneless chicken pound strawberries, halved or
go, so there are pockets of jam throughout.
breast halves quartered if large
Run a knife once or twice through mixture
small onion, halved /2 cups white balsamic vinegar, rice
to lightly swirl. Freeze until firm enough to
/2 of a lemon, halved into quarters vinegar or white wine vinegar
scoop, about 4 hours. MAKES 9 SERVINGS.
fat clove garlic, halved /3 cup water
PER SERVING283 cal, 14 g fat, 43 mg chol, 40 mg
tablespoon plus /4teaspoon kosher salt, /3 cup sugar
sodium, 39 g carbo, 1 g fiber, 32 g sugars, 2 g pro.
divided tablespoon kosher salt
teaspoon whole black peppercorns teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Pimm’s Cup for a Crowd
cups whole strawberries
/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil Place strawberries in a 1-quart jar. In a HANDS ON10 MINUTES TOTAL20 MINUTES
tablespoons white balsamic vinegar or medium saucepan, combine vinegar, water,
/2 cups Pimm’s No. 1
balsamic vinegar sugar, kosher salt and peppercorns. Bring
navel orange, thinly sliced
/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt.
cup thinly sliced English cucumber
Honey (optional) Remove from heat. Let cool until warm.
cup strawberries, halved or
ounces haricots verts (slender Pour over berries in jar; secure lid.
quartered if large green beans)
Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight /2 cup fresh mint and/or basil leaves
1 large head butterhead lettuce (Bibb
before serving. Store in refrigerator up to cans (4/2cups) chilled sparkling
or Boston)
week. MAKES 3 CUPS.
lemonade (such as Sanpellegrino 2 cups strawberries, halved or quartered
PER 2 TABLESPOONS10 cal, 0 g fat, 0 mg chol, 14 mg Limonata), ginger beer or ginger ale
if large
sodium, 2 g carbo, 0 g fiber, 2 g sugars, 0 g pro.
lemon, juiced (optional)
1 avocado, halved and sliced
/2 cup whole toasted pecans, coarsely
Double-Strawberry .In a large pitcher, combine Pimm’s No. 1,
broken (optional)
Ripple Ice Cream orange, cucumber, strawberries and mint.
Fresh chives
This recipe is inspired by one from David Stir gently to lightly muddle. Let stand
Fresh basil leaves
Lebovitz’ cookbook, The Perfect Scoop. If minutes (or chill up to 2 hours).
.In a large saucepan, combine chicken, you’re feeling adventurous, serve with a .To serve, add sparkling lemonade to
onion, lemon, garlic, 1 tablespoon kosher little cracked black pepper on top. pitcher and stir. Taste; add a little lemon juice
salt and the peppercorns. Add water to HANDS ON15 MINUTES PREP8 HOURS 45 MINUTES (if using) if beverage is too sweet. Partially fill
cover. Bring to a simmer over medium. six tall glasses with ice. Pour beverage into
pound strawberries, halved or
Turn chicken; cover with a tight-fitting lid. glasses using a spoon to nudge muddled fruit
quartered if large
Remove from heat. Let stand until internal and herbs among ice. Garnish with additional
/3 cup sugar
temperature in the thickest part of breast fruit or herbs. MAKES 6 SERVINGS.
tablespoon balsamic vinegar
reaches 155°, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove INDIVIDUAL PIMM’S CUP In a tall glass,
cup sour cream
chicken from liquid, tent with foil and let lightly muddle an orange slice, a cucumber
cup heavy cream
rest 10 minutes before slicing. (Temperature slice, a few mint and/or basil leaves and
/2 teaspoon lemon juice
will rise during standing time.) Chicken can a halved strawberry. Add ice, 2 ounces
/2 teaspoon vanilla
be refrigerated, unsliced, until ready to Pimm’s No. 1 and, if desired, a small
Pinch kosher salt
assemble salad. /4 cup good-quality strawberry jam, such squeeze of lemon juice. Top with sparkling
.For dressing: In a blender, combine 2 cups as Bonne Maman, stirred to loosen lemonade or ginger ale, give it a stir, then
whole strawberries, the olive oil, vinegar, garnish with more fruit or herbs.
/4teaspoon kosher salt and the pepper. .If the strawberries are very tender and
PER SERVING310 cal, 0 g fat, 0 mg chol, 36 mg sodium,
Cover and blend until smooth. Taste and sweet (i.e., locally grown), place them g carbo, 0 g fiber, 47 g sugars, 0 g pro.
99
MWL SUMMER 2022
food recipes
R
Earl Grey Strawberry depends on the consistency of the tahini,
The surest way to ward off dry pork is to
MOJO start with a thick chop. (If a jumbo cutdwarfs your appetite, cut the meat from the
PORK CHOPS WITH bone and share.) The peppy pineapple and
Shortcakes FRUIT SALSA mango salsa almost hogs the spotlight—it’s add /4cup additional water in the same
WRITERHANNAH AGRAN good enough to eat like a salad.
RECIPES EMILY PASTERPHOTOGRAPHERCARSON DOWNING
GRILL
HANDS ON25 MINUTES TOTAL2 HOURS 30 MINUTES manner and blend until sauce is smooth,
meets fluffy and pourable. Cover and chill until
cup heavy cream, divided BRUSH UP ON YOUR
OUTDOOR COOKING GAME
(BASTE, DOLLOP
AND MARINATE IT TOO) needed. (Tahini sauce may be stored in
teaspoons loose-leaf Earl Grey tea (or WITH DAZZLING
SAUCES ADAPTED FROM
A GLOBAL PANTRY.
an airtight container in the refrigerator
tea bags), divided
up to 2 weeks.)
tablespoons plus /4cup granulated
world
sugar, divided .For Israeli salad: In a large bowl,
flag
tablespoons sour cream CHERMOULA MOJOS ARE A FAMILY combine cucumber, tomatoes, onion and
HALIBUT SKEWERS OF SAUCES BROUGHT TO THE
Kabob smarts: Some ingredients CARIBBEAN FROM THE
cook faster than others, so don’t CANARY ISLANDS THROUGH
SERVED IN MOROCCO alternate them like multicolor beadson a string. Instead, segregate your MIGRATION. IN CUBA,
/2 cups all-purpose flour AND OTHER NORTH AFRICANNATIONS, CHERMOULA skewers for perfectly flaky fish, tender EXPECT LIME AND ORANGE JUICE,GARLIC, AND OREGANO. parsley. Add 3 tablespoons lemon juice
BLENDS PARSLEY, zucchini and not-soggy tomatoes.
CILANTRO, SPICES, OLIVE OIL
AND LEMON JUICE.
teaspoon baking powder and 3 tablespoons olive oil; toss to coat.
/4 teaspoon plus pinch kosher salt, divided For main article, see page 70. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and the
/4 teaspoon baking soda black pepper to taste. Cover and chill up
GRILL MEETS WORLD
/3 cup cold butter
to 6 hours.
/2 cup sour cream or plain yogurt
Chicken Shawarma .To grill chicken: Create hot (direct)
egg, lightly beaten
HANDS ON25 MINUTES TOTAL4 HOURS and cooler (indirect) zones in your grill,
tablespoons milk
preheating the hot zone to high. Place
tablespoon turbinado (raw) sugar tablespoon packed brown sugar
chicken thighs on grate over indirect heat.
cups fresh strawberries, sliced teaspoons ground cumin
Cover and grill thighs until the internal
tablespoon fine orange zest teaspoons ground coriander
temperature reaches 150°, 18 to 20 minutes,
teaspoons smoked paprika
.In a small saucepan, combine /2cup turning once halfway through grilling. Move
teaspoon garlic powder
heavy cream and 2 teaspoons tea (or thighs over direct heat in hot zone of grill.
teaspoon ground cinnamon
tea bags). Bring to a gentle simmer; Grill until the internal temperature reaches
/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
cover with a lid. Remove from heat. Let °, 5 to 7 minutes, turning frequently.
/3cup plus 5 tablespoons lemon juice,
stand 30 to 60 minutes. Strain through .Transfer chicken to a cutting board, tent
divided
a fine-mesh sieve (or remove tea bags). tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, with foil and let rest 10 minutes. Meanwhile,
Transfer to a large bowl. Refrigerate until divided warm pitas on the grill.
well chilled. pounds skinless, boneless chicken thighs .Thinly slice chicken and serve with tahini
.To tea-infused cream, add /2cup heavy /4 cup tahini sauce, Israeli salad, pitas and lemon
cream, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, cloves garlic, coarsely chopped wedges. MAKES 4 SERVINGS.
/2 to /4cup cold water
and 2 tablespoons sour cream. Beat on PER SERVING1,203 cal, 64 g fat, 158 mg chol, 1,812 mg
English cucumber, finely chopped sodium, 94 g carbo, 8 g fiber, 10 g sugars, 68 g pro.
medium-high until soft peaks form. Cover
(3 cups)
and chill until ready to serve.
pint cherry or grape tomatoes,
.Preheat oven to 400°. Line a baking sheet Mojo Pork Chops with Fruit Salsa
quartered
with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, HANDS ON25 MINUTES TOTAL5 HOURS
small red onion, finely chopped (/2cup) combine flour, /4cup granulated sugar,
/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley /3 cup fresh orange juice (from 2 oranges)
teaspoons tea (or contents of 2 tea bags),
Freshly ground black pepper to taste /3 cup plus /4cup fresh lime juice (from
the baking powder, /4teaspoon salt and
soft pitas limes), divided
the baking soda. Using a pastry blender
lemon, cut into wedges, for serving /4 cup packed brown sugar
or your fingers, cut or rub in butter until
cloves garlic, minced
mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Make a .For marinade: In a small bowl, combine
jalapeٌo pepper, seeded and finely
well in the center. In a small bowl, combine brown sugar, cumin, coriander, paprika,
chopped
/2cup sour cream, the egg and milk. Add garlic powder, cinnamon, and 2 teaspoons
tablespoon plus 1/4teaspoons kosher
to flour mixture; stir with a fork just until kosher salt. Whisk in 2 tablespoons lemon
salt, divided
moistened. juice. Slowly add 3 tablespoons oil in a /4 teaspoons ground cumin, divided
.Drop dough in eight mounds on prepared steady stream, whisking constantly until teaspoon dried oregano, crushed
baking sheet. Sprinkle with turbinado sugar. mixture forms a smooth paste. Hot sauce (such as Cholula) (optional)
Bake until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. .Place chicken thighs in a resealable /2 cup canola oil or grape-seed oil
Transfer to a wire rack; cool completely. plastic bag set in a shallow dish. Add bone-in pork rib chops, cut 1/2inches
thick (about 3 pounds total)
.In a medium bowl, stir together marinade. Seal bag and turn to coat
ripe pineapple, cored and chopped
strawberries, 3 tablespoons granulated chicken. Chill at least 3 hours or overnight.
(4 cups)
sugar, the orange zest and pinch salt. Let .Meanwhile, make tahini sauce: In a
small ripe mango, chopped (1 cup)
stand until juicy, 15 to 30 minutes. blender or food processor, combine tahini,
/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
.Split shortcakes horizontally. Top /3cup lemon juice, /2teaspoon kosher salt,
/2cup chopped red onion
shortcakes with dollops of whipped and the garlic; cover and pulse a few times
jalapeٌo and/or Fresno peppers, seeded
cream and generous spoonfuls of berries. until mixture forms a paste. With motor
and finely chopped
MAKES 8 SERVINGS. MWL running, slowly add /2cup water and blend
/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
until sauce is lighter in color and fluffy, 1 to
PER SERVING373 cal, 23 g fat, 87 mg chol, 277 mg teaspoon black pepper
sodium, 39 g carbo, 3 g fiber, 18 g sugars, 5 g pro. minutes. If sauce is still very thick, which
MWL SUMMER 2022
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food recipes
R
.For marinade: In a medium bowl, whisk /2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided .Slice remaining half of the red onion.
together orange juice, /3cup lime juice, /2 teaspoons sherry vinegar or red To assemble burgers, spread goat cheese
the brown sugar, garlic, 1 jalapeٌo pepper, wine vinegar (if using) on bottom buns. Top with burgers,
whole clove garlic
tablespoon kosher salt, 2 teaspoons sliced onion and arugula. Spread Romesco
/2 teaspoon sugar
cumin, the oregano, and a dash hot sauce sauce on top buns; place on top. MAKES
/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
(if using). Slowly add oil in a steady stream, SERVINGS.
/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
whisking constantly until mixture is PER SERVING621 cal, 38 g fat, 103 mg chol, 752 mg
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
sodium, 35 g carbo, 4 g fiber, 8 g sugars, 33 g pro.
emulsified.
red onion, halved crosswise
.Place pork chops in a resealable plastic
pounds ground lamb or ground beef
bag set in a shallow dish. Add marinade. Vietnamese Grilled Eggplant
(or 1 pound each)
Seal bag and turn to coat chops. Chill 4 to HANDS ON15 MINUTES TOTAL35 MINUTES
cloves garlic, minced
hours (but not longer than 12 hours,
teaspoon ground cumin
/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes) because the acid in the marinade will begin
teaspoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
to break down the muscle fibers of the
ounces goat cheese (chèvre) (optional)
2 tablespoons water
meat, making it mushy).
hamburger buns, toasted
2 tablespoons fish sauce*
.Thirty minutes before grilling the pork,
ounces fresh baby arugula
/2to 1 Thai chile or serrano pepper, seeded prepare fruit salsa. In a large bowl,
and finely chopped (optional)
combine pineapple, mango, cilantro, .For Romesco sauce: Toast almonds
clove garlic, minced
red onion, and 2 jalapeٌo and/or Fresno in a dry skillet over medium until lightly
medium Chinese or Japanese eggplant**
peppers. In a smaller bowl, whisk together browned and fragrant, about 4 minutes. (2 pounds total)
/4cup lime juice, /4teaspoon kosher salt, Coarsely chop almonds; place in a food tablespoons canola oil or grape-seed oil,
/4teaspoon cumin, the granulated sugar, processor and let cool. Add roasted red divided
and a dash hot sauce (if using) until salt and peppers, tomato, bread, /2teaspoon medium red bell peppers, cored and
sugar are dissolved. Pour over fruit and toss kosher salt, the vinegar, whole garlic clove, quartered
to coat. Cover and chill until needed. sugar, paprika and cayenne pepper. Pulse /2 teaspoon kosher salt
/2 cup lightly packed fresh mint, chopped
.To grill chops: Create hot (direct) until large ingredients are broken down.
/4 cup fresh Thai or sweet basil, chopped
and cooler (indirect) zones in your grill, With the motor running, slowly add olive oil
/4 cup finely chopped roasted peanuts
preheating the hot zone to high. Drain and and process until sauce is smooth enough
discard marinade from chops. Season both to spread but still has a rustic texture. .For nuoc cham sauce: In a bowl, whisk
sides of chops with 1 teaspoon kosher salt Taste; add additional salt or vinegar if together lime juice, maple syrup, the water
and the black pepper. needed. Transfer to a bowl. Cover and and fish sauce. Add chile (if using) and
.Place chops on grate over indirect chill until needed. (Romesco sauce may garlic. Let stand 30 minutes before serving.
heat. Cover and grill chops until internal be stored in an airtight container in the (Nuoc cham may be stored in an airtight
temperature reaches 125°, 20 to 25 minutes, refrigerator up to 5 days.) container in the refrigerator up to 1 week.)
turning once halfway through grilling. Move .For burgers: Grate half of the red .Preheat grill to high. Cut eggplants in
chops over direct heat in hot zone of grill. onion. In a large bowl, combine grated half lengthwise and brush all over with
Grill until internal temperature reaches onion, the lamb, minced garlic, cumin, tablespoons oil. Toss bell pepper quarters
° and chops are seared, 5 to 10 minutes, coriander and 1 teaspoon kosher salt; mix with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil.
turning once. gently with your hands. Form mixture into Sprinkle vegetables with kosher salt.
.Transfer chops to a platter. Let stand six loosely packed balls, each weighing .Reduce grill heat to medium-high. Place
minutes. Serve chops with fruit salsa. approximately 5 ounces. (Packing the meat eggplant and bell peppers, cut sides down,
MAKES 6 SERVINGS. too tightly can result in tough burgers.) on grate over direct heat. Cook, uncovered,
PER SERVING288 cal, 8 g fat, 76 mg chol, 452 mg Gently flatten the balls into patties slightly until grill marks appear, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn
sodium, 23 g carbo, 3 g fiber, 17 g sugars, 31 g pro.
wider than the buns. Create a divot in the vegetables. Cover and continue grilling until
centers of the patties with your fingers, so vegetables are tender and lightly charred
Lamb Burgers with Romesco that burgers remain flat and do not shrink in spots, 5 to 7 minutes more, turning
Bread in a sauce may seem strange, but it when cooked. occasionally. (The eggplant may be done a
adds texture and thickening power. If your .Create hot (direct) and cooler (indirect) minute or two before the bell peppers.)
bread is fresh, be sure to toast it for the zones in your grill, preheating the hot .Arrange eggplant halves on a platter.
best results. zone to high. Place burgers on grate over Coarsely chop bell peppers and scatter
START TO FINISH1 HOUR indirect heat. Cover and grill burgers until them over the eggplant. Drizzle with /4cup
internal temperature reaches 140°, 20 to of nuoc cham sauce. Sprinkle with mint,
/4 cup whole blanched almonds
basil and peanuts. Serve with additional 25 minutes,turning once halfway through
cup jarred roasted red peppers, drained
grilling. Move burgers over direct heat nuoc cham on the side. MAKES 4 SERVINGS.
roma tomato, chopped
in hot zone of grill. Grill until internal *INGREDIENT TIP Fish sauce is a widely
slice country-style bread, day-old or
temperature reaches 160°, 5 to 8 more available condiment signature to Southeast
toasted, crusts removed, torn into
Asian cuisines. One especially good brand is minutes, turning once. Transfer burgers pieces (/4cup)
to a plate. Red Boat, but any you find will work.
MWL SUMMER 2022
R
**INGREDIENT TIP Chinese eggplants are pan or basket on grate. Drain and discard oil and process until mixture is smooth
long, slender and bright lavender. Their marinade from steak. Arrange steak slices and has a thin consistency. Taste and
thin skin and mild, sweet taste are well in an even layer in grill pan. Place green adjust seasoning. Transfer one-third of
suited for recipes like this one, with a short onions on grate over direct heat. Turn the chermoula to a small bowl. Reserve
cooking time and strong flavors. Japanese steak frequently until the meat is no longer the remaining chermoula for brushing on
or graffiti eggplant are similar substitutes. pink, 8 to 10 minutes. Grill green onions cooked skewers. (Chermoula may be stored
If using globe or Italian eggplant, use until lightly charred, 2 to 4 minutes, turning in an airtight container in the refrigerator
medium eggplants (2 pounds total) and once. Transfer steak and onions to a platter. up to 2 days.)
cut them lengthwise into 1-inch-thick .Sprinkle steak and onions with sesame .Cut halibut into 1/2-inch pieces.
planks. seeds and Korean chile flakes (if using). Thread halibut pieces onto three or four
PER SERVING257 cal, 16 g fat, 0 mg chol, 886 mg Serve with rice and lettuce leaves for - to 10-inch skewers. Brush halibut with
sodium, 28 g carbo, 10 g fiber, 18 g sugars, 6 g pro.
making wraps. MAKES 4 SERVINGS. the chermoula in the small bowl.
*INGREDIENT TIP To toast sesame seeds, .Thread zucchini rounds through the skin
Bulgogi with Grilled Onions cook them in a small dry skillet over onto three or four skewers so cut sides
If you don’t have a grill pan or basket, place medium until lightly browned, shaking the will be touching the grill grates. Thread
a shallow rimmed baking pan on the grate. pan frequently to prevent burning. Transfer whole cherry tomatoes onto three or
HANDS ON30 MINUTES TOTAL2 HOURS 30 MINUTES to a bowl to stop cooking. four additional skewers. Brush vegetable
**INGREDIENT TIP Gochugaru, or Korean skewers with olive oil and season with salt
pounds boneless beef ribeye steak, top
chile flakes, is a signature ingredient in and black pepper.
sirloin or beef chuck
.Preheat grill to high. Preheat grill pan kimchi. It has smoky, fruity notes and is Asian pear, Bosc pear or red cooking
on grate. Oil grill pan by dipping a paper milder that the pepper flakes you’d sprinkle
apple
towel in vegetable oil and, using tongs to on a pizza. As a garnish, it adds a little kick
tablespoons soy sauce
hold the paper towel, rubbing the grill pan and color to this dish, but isn’t required.
tablespoons packed brown sugar
with oil. Wait at least 5 minutes and repeat PER SERVING510 cal, 32 g fat, 145 mg chol, 506 mg tablespoons mirin (sweet rice wine)
sodium, 10 g carbo, 3 g fiber, 3 g sugars, 47 g pro.
the oiling process just before adding fish to
tablespoons minced garlic
grill pan. (This helps prevent the fish from
tablespoon grated fresh ginger
/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chermoula Halibut Skewers sticking.)
tablespoons sesame oil Thin wooden or bamboo skewers work well .Place fish skewers in grill pan. Place
thick green onions for delicate fish and cherry tomatoes. Soak vegetable skewers on grate over direct
tablespoons canola oil or grape-seed oil them in water for 30 minutes before using heat. Grill fish skewers until fish flakes
/2 teaspoon kosher salt them so they don’t burn. easily, about 10 minutes, turning once.
/2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted*
HANDS ON20 MINUTES TOTAL30 MINUTES Grill vegetable skewers until charred and
Korean chile flakes (gochugaru)**
tender, about 5 minutes for tomatoes
cups packed cilantro leaves (optional)
and 10 minutes for zucchini, turning once
cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves Hot cooked jasmine rice
or twice. Grill lemon halves over direct
cloves garlic, peeled and halved Large Romaine leaves or green or red leaf
heat, cut sides down, until grill marks
Zest and juice of 1 lemon (1 teaspoon lettuce leaves
appear.
zest and 3 tablespoons juice)
.Wrap steak in plastic wrap and freeze .Transfer skewers to a platter. Brush the
/2 teaspoon ground cumin
until firm, 1/2to 2 hours. (This will make fish with some of the remaining chermoula.
/2 teaspoon ground coriander
the steak easier to thinly slice.) Serve with additional chermoula and the
/2 teaspoon paprika
.Meanwhile, for marinade: Peel and core lemon halves. MAKES 4 SERVINGS. MWL
/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper
pear. Grate half of the pear and place the teaspoon kosher salt PER SERVING643 cal, 48 g fat, 111 mg chol, 607 mg
sodium, 13 g carbo, 4 g fiber, 6 g sugars, 45 g pro.
grated fruit in a medium bowl. (Reserve /3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
the remaining half pear for another use.) pounds fresh halibut, 1 inch thick, skin
Add soy sauce, brown sugar, mirin, garlic, removed
ginger and black pepper to the bowl. Whisk medium zucchini (8 ounces each), cut
to dissolve sugar. Slowly add sesame oil in into 1-inch-thick rounds
12 ounces cherry or grape tomatoes
a steady stream, whisking constantly, until
tablespoons olive oil
mixture is emulsified.
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste .Remove steak from freezer and cut it
Vegetable oil
very thinly across the grain into slices
small lemons, halved
GRILLING 101
approximately ⅛ inch thick. Place steak in a
glass baking dish. Add marinade; use tongs .For chermoula: In a food processor, Hover your
phone’s camera
to turn steak to coat completely. Cover and combine cilantro, parsley, garlic, lemon
for answers to all
chill at least 30 minutes or overnight. zest and juice, cumin, coriander, paprika,
your burning
.When ready to grill, brush green onions crushed red pepper, and kosher salt.
(or, hopefully, not)
with canola oil and season with kosher Pulse until mixture forms a coarse paste. questions about
salt. Preheat grill to high. Preheat grill With the motor running, slowly add olive outdoor cooking.
MWL SUMMER 2022
ANN ARBOR
Michigan
LARISASVINTSITSKI
BEHIND THE LENS
I found this wall of rhododendrons tucked along a wooded path at Nichols Arboretum at the University of Michigan. I grew up in Ann Arbor and have frequented these grounds my entire life. Summer brings back fond memories of my grandparents, who often strolled here in the evenings, but the landscape is magical and hard not to love across all seasons. In late May and early June, lots of visitors come for a stunning display of plush peonies, with more than 270 varieties, some dating to the 19th century. You can see couples picnicking, parents relaxing, children playing—all of us seeking comfort and rejuvenation in the multicolor corridors of flowers.
PHOTOGRAPHERLARISA SVINTSITSKI
You Can Download The PDF File for the Book From Here