“The Gulf oyster’s revival is one of the great culinary stories of our time, and there’s no one better to tell it than Irv Miller, who has been on the front lines all along. Gulf Coast Oysters will dazzle you, enlighten you, and inspire you. And it will make you very, very hungry.” —Rowan Jacobsen, author of The Essential Oyster
“...beautiful and very well done.” – Jeremiah Tower
About the Author:Irv Miller, founding executive chef at Jackson’s Steakhouse in Pensacola, Florida, has prepared dinner at the James Beard house for five one-of-a-kind events. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Chef Miller has a distinct style, a powerful vision, and most of all, the ability to translate bold ideas into food that’s irresistibly delicious and beautiful. For over three decades, Chef Miller has been committed to endorsing the Florida Panhandle’s seaward and inland bounties. Many of Chef Miller’s recipes and articles have been included in Bon Appétit, Food Arts, Food & Wine, Florida Trend, Florida Living, Southern Living, Atlanta Magazine, the Pensacola News Journal’s “Chef’s Corner” column and The Lodge Cast Iron Cookbook. While performing as television chef/host for WSRE’s PBS cooking show “Flavors of the Coast,” Chef Miller filmed 51 episodes. More recently, Chef Miller appeared on “Emeril’s Florida” TV cooking show promoting Pensacola. He took to the cooking stage for Coastal Living magazine’s demonstration theater at the 26th Annual Sandestin Wine Festival and represented the Sunshine State at the Great American Seafood Cook-Off.
It’s been said Gulf Coast oysters have the cleanest taste of any oyster: “...it tastes of the sea and not much else, and for that reason they should be the oysters against which all others should be measured.”
Gulf Coast Oysters: Classic & Modern Recipes for a Southern Renaissance is the latest cookbook from acclaimed and award-winning chef, Irv Miller. Beautifully photographed and replete with mouth-watering recipes, Gulf Coast Oysters is a joyful and thorough exploration of Gulf oyster culture that honors the many oyster classics of the Gulf foodways while also putting a fresh, modern spin on preparing “panhandle pearls.”
Going beyond its delicious recipes and stunning photos, Gulf Coast Oysters also focuses on preserving the Gulf’s cross-cultural, Southern traditions and a goal of creating new interest in seafood-sustainable products. Miller’s years of hands-on experience of modernizing the way the Florida Panhandle thinks about food, as well as his support of sustainable food-producing practices, has provided him the unique and credentialed perspective for telling the story of the ever-changing food scene along the Gulf Coast.
Whether you’re a native of the Gulf Coast, a passionate epicurean, or simply part of the growing population of oyster fans that’s booming from coast-to-coast, Gulf Coast Oysters: Classic & Modern Recipes for a Southern Renaissance is an bountiful book of diverse Gulf oyster recipes, striking photography, and an engaging look at the culture surrounding the ancient mollusk’s place on Gulf coast.
Gulf Oysters, Revisited:A Foreword from Bill Walton, Dr.Oyster
The Oyster, Evolved:A Foreword from Jason Burnett, Oyster-Obsession.co
Introduction
Chapter 1:THE ICONIC & INSURMOUNTABLE GU
Chapter 2:DROPS, MIGNONETTES, MISTS & HO
Chapter 3:CEVICHE, CRUDO & CHILLED TOPPIN
Chapter 4:SOUPS, GUMBO & STEWS
Chapter 5:PAN & DEEP FRIED
Chapter 6:OYSTERS ON FIRE
Chapter 7:BROILED, ROASTED & STUFFED
Chapter 8:OYSTER PAN ROASTS, PASTA & GRIT
Chapter 9:NEW CRUSTED CLASSICS
Oyster Reading
Gulf Coast Oyster Resources
Metric Conversions
Index
Recipe Index
Gulf Oysters, Revisited
A Foreword from Bill Walton, Dr. Oyster
this way are typically hatchery-reared, singl
There was a time when I didn’t know better; when I
thought that all oysters from the Gulf of Mexico were oysters instead of the clumps of oysters fo
muddy, huge, and bland. Living and working in New the wild. This protects oysters from preda
England, I thought this was true, though I hadn’t tried getting buried in the mud. It also lets the f
all that many oysters from the Gulf. It didn’t help that produce a world-class oyster over and ove
during my visit to interview with Auburn University, farmer able to produce a distinct variety, m
my wife, Beth, and I stopped at a famous raw bar in microbrews or wines.
Mobile, Alabama, ordered a dozen, and got . . . muddy, With new farms currently producing oys
huge, bland oysters. Alabama, Florida, and Louisiana (and Missi
I got the job and celebrated months later at that looking to get started), the growers and, t
same raw bar—and I was served some of the best chefs have embraced this variety. Each far
oysters I had ever tasted. They were plump and firm, working in the farm’s natural environment,
with dash of salt and the pure flavors of the local making decisions about how to tend the c
waters. That was the true beginning of my realization produces a distinct merroir—a term mean
of what Gulf Coast oysters have been and could be. “the flavor of the sea,” though I’m now co
The Gulf oyster industry has been built on the beds the farmer affects how the oysters look an
of oysters sprinkled in the protected, nutrient-rich taste, to some extent. This has created tre
coastal waters of the Gulf. Whether from private opportunity. Farmers can build their own b
leases or public reefs, the oysters here rely on revive heritage oysters. Chefs and raw bars
recruitment of wild oysters via spat fall that attaches menus with more than a dozen varieties pr
to the cultch (i.e., shell or other hard substrate). This the Gulf. And, of course, oyster lovers can
can allow for banner years, but can also mean down fruits of these labors.
years from high levels of predation, dramatic salinity For me, it is about all that—and I’ve enjo
changes, and poor recruitment. Because these than my fair share of these amazing oyster
oysters form irregular shapes, they are primarily sent half shell—but it’s about more. It’s about h
to the shucked market. can rebuild rural coastal communities, pro
Now, at least in part because of a few down jobs, and keep traditions (or start new one
years, there’s an effort to farm oysters. Off-bottom protecting the environment and water qua
farming is the culture of oysters held in some type It is with great pleasure that I welcome t
of basket, bag, or cage suspended or floating above and love that chef Irv Miller brings to the o
the seafloor, with the intent of producing premium renaissance in the Gulf of Mexico. This is a
oysters for the half-shell market. Oysters grown love, and I believe it makes us more than w
gulf coast oysters
— —
The Oyster, Evolved
A Foreword from Jason Burnett, Oyster-Obsession
While Louisiana’s oyster culture is well
Not long ago in A Geography of Oysters, Rowan
Jacobsen noted, “Gulf oysters are usually sold as documented by John Folse, Glenda and Jer
generic oysters—indicative of a region that pays less Horst, and others, Gulf Coast oyster tradit
attention to the nuances of different raw oysters by no means limited to the Bayou State. Fo
than to their culinary possibilities.” How quickly than a century, oyster harvesting, processi
things change. Recently, at one of my favorite pubs in canning operations lined the coast from T
Birmingham, Alabama, I savored 10 different oysters, south Florida. Antique postcards documen
half of them farmed along the Gulf. fleets in Galveston and Palacios, Texas; Bilo
While the rise of off-bottom farming inspires a Mississippi; Mobile, Alabama; and Apalachic
new appreciation of raw Gulf oysters, we also remain St. Petersburg, Florida. With inexpensive o
passionate about the culinary possibilities. At the readily available year-round, it’s no surprise
same pub, they had oyster mac and cheese with culinary tradition developed around them.
orecchiette, smoked gouda, and white cheddar; Today, our obsession with oysters conti
baked oysters with bacon, blue cheese, and stretch culinary creativity. Every November
housemade hot sauce; fried oysters with sriracha as sixty chefs from across the region gathe
aioli and jalapeٌo relish; an oyster roll with bacon, Shores for the Hangout Oyster Cook-Off.
spinach, cream cheese, asparagus, jalapeٌo, cilantro, creates a take on the Rockefeller, an origin
and sambal aioli; and oysters Rockefeller with oyster topping, and a Cajun-style oyster (m
absinthe foam. Cooks of all stripes approach oysters cheeses, and spices encouraged). Eight tho
with the inventiveness applied to other seafood. oyster lovers attend and are treated to sco
Cooked oysters are nothing new to North completely original and often extraordinar
America, and certainly not unique to the Gulf. Native Few people understand and appreciate t
Americans roasted oysters. The earliest English region’s culinary history as well as author a
settlers brought recipes for stewed, scalloped, and chef Irv Miller. He not only recognized that
pickled oysters. Oyster bars dominated the pub Gulf (especially the stretch known as the R
scene from New York to San Francisco throughout Riviera) has its own cuisine and culinary tra
the 19th century. But on the Gulf Coast, oyster beyond New Orleans, but his decades of w
cookery achieved glorification, and there’s little some of the region’s signature restaurants
arguing that New Orleans is the epicenter of cooked shape those traditions. His exploration of
oysters. It is the home of oysters Rockefeller, oysters should prove to be both mouthwa
Bienville, Roffignac, Lafitte, Mosca, Weemo, and enlightening to oyster lovers everywhere.
countless other dishes that celebrate the bivalve.
gulf coast oysters
— —
introduction
highfalutin’ food that I was trained for, so, Back in 1982, there was little to do in Destin,
Florida—the World’s Luckiest Fishing Village— back to the basics for me.
except for day-boat fishing, hitting the beaches, The home-spun restaurant food from th
making a trip to the local seafood market, or was predictable and somewhat unfashiona
just stopping by the Jitney Jungle grocery store with none of today’s 21st century menu m
for supplies. That was the year I moved to the What you ordered is what you got. None o
Gulf Coast. I vividly remember the liquor store’s chefs in town had culinary degrees, and th
giant lime-green Green Knight, a statue holding a fine with the locals. The culture there was
marquee, that stood majestically on Highway 98, moving and the locals liked it that way. I ha
a Destin landmark. The city had just installed new a good number of years living the simple lif
traffic lights and street signs, which stood out, yet the mid-Atlantic Coast, so when I discover
the traffic volume throughout the seasons remained quaint Destin village, I fell in love with its se
sparse. The traffic was especially light heading uncharted style.
into sunset when the locals made their way to the However, at 28 years old, I was still the n
bars and restaurants: the only social things to do. town, so I had to learn how to adapt and e
The best part was that Apalachicola oysters were acceptance into the local community. My p
abounding to the southeast, and fish from the Gulf twofold: to win over the locals and appeal
of Mexico were plentiful. tastes of seasonal tourists from Alabama,
In those days, instead of white tablecloths, Tennessee, Georgia, and Texas. This is whe
restaurants used hardwood-resin tables covered training and knowledge from the Culinary I
with vinyl-checkerboard tablecloths, which were and subsequent time spent in San Antonio
perfectly suitable for feasting on fried fish with in. So, I gave the people what they really w
hushpuppies or grabbing a seat at the oyster bar. all along: New Orleans favorites such as Oy
Caroline Stuart, friend and author of The Florida Rockefeller and Oysters Bienville, in a quain
Cookbook,paraphrased Panhandle culture as a restaurant called Les Saisons. It was here t
recipe: “Equal parts rich resources and creative experimenting with menu items such as co
cooks, a Dash of Cracker ingenuity, a pinch of “Oysters du Jour.” Nobody was whisking u
sophistication mixed with good ole’ boy modesty, blanc (white butter sauce) or any fancy Fr
and served with low-key hospitality.” Change sauces in that area at the time, nor was an
happened slowly along this stretch of the Gulf using a chinois (fine strainer for sauces). N
Coast, and little had changed during that decade. the moment for me to put into practice w
As I settled in, I quickly learned that it was going to learned the last few years at the CIA and th
be a challenge for me to get local support for the had received under a French chef in Texas.
gulf coast oysters
— —
The moment that I had a strong understanding of Seaside, Florida, where I was chef through
the local home-style foods of this Gulf Coast micro- ‘80s and early ‘90s. The bartenders, much
region, endeared by many as the Redneck Riviera, I surprise, soon found themselves doubling
put my heart into creating new oyster toppings akin shuckers. All the while, my penchant for co
to the region, but used flavors no one had tasted oysters with toppings remained the same.
before. My main source for oysters was Apalachicola
Bay, just 160 miles away to the southeast. ABILITY WITH AVAILABI
Apalachicola oysters (Crassostrea virginica)were As early as the mid-1800s, oyster beds in t
delivered to us by the sack; after they made the two- Northwest’s Pacific waters had mostly bee
and-a-half-hour journey up Highway 98, we shucked decimated, with some just barely holding o
them for topping and baking. following century. At around the same tim
I wasn’t serving raw oysters on the half shell Northeast and mid-Atlantic coastlines, oys
at Les Saisons during those early days. Most raw also began to empty. The collapse of fisher
oysters were being served at the local hole-in-the- the Atlantic coast caused an explosion in o
wall oyster bars, harbor-side beach shacks, and the along the Gulf of Mexico. Even through the
bigger tourist-oriented seafood restaurants. By the , the Gulf states produced most of th
late 1980s, raw bars came into vogue at some of the oysters for the country’s limitlessly healthy
white tablecloth hot spots like Bud and Alley’s in Apalachicola, the most renowned location
Oyster shell pile at Buddy Ward and Sons Seafood on 13 Mile Road along Apalachicola Bay for rebuilding reefs and creating substrate.
gulf coast oysters
— —
%
namesake oysters, experienced a serious decline for Gulf fisheries. Oyster production along
in their harvest by the mid-1980s, but seafood states was in distress. Misfortune was loom
wholesalers were still able to provide a steady supply. Gulf oyster.
Following their long drought of ample oyster
supplies, European oyster farmers brought their HOME IS WHERE THE OY
expertise to California and Washington. Here is There are five Gulf Coast oyster-producing
where they pioneered oyster basket farming, and Alabama, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, an
the Northeast followed suit throughout the 1970s Gulf Coast oysters, often considered a com
and early ‘80s. By the 1990s, several folks along the oyster, are identified by the state or area f
Gulf of Mexico made attempts which they were harves
at farming oysters merely for The majority of wild-ha
We’re growing
experimental reasons, but were oysters is intended for
a new oyster
then commercially successful shucked market, both r
a decade later. Farmed oysters and cooked, rather tha
from seed
began to grow effectively in premium half-shell mark
and above
Alabama with the expertise of Coast oysters are consi
northern Cape Cod transplants for slurping raw, but ar
the seafloor…
and the aquaculture expertise often used in cooked-to
producing
of Bill Walton (no, not the NBA creations. They vary in s
player). Now, oysters are being to 4 inches, and often
uniquely
raised and harvested from much To harvest these unma
di erent-tasting
of the Gulf waters. clustered oysters, tongs
The famous Gulf oyster (a
succulent gems.rake machines (i.e., dred
general name given to wild scrape the bottom of t
oysters harvested from various Gulf Coast bays Once the harvest reaches the boat, oyster
and beds) was the workhorse of the Gulf, and way a hammer to cull them, discard the mud-fil
of life for oyster fishermen stretching from east then rinse and clean the good ones. The la
of Florida’s big bend to the coast of Texas was in oysters are sometimes mild-flavored, and c
trouble. Accustomed to climate variations and trials, the perfect canvas for a broad range of fla
the great Gulf waters remained insuperable, healthy, enhancements: fried, poached, grilled, roas
and production abundant, while continuing to supply baked. Generations of Gulf Coast seafood
most of the country’s wild oysters. As production like my good friend and oyster authority Ji
remained heavy, so did the prospects of continuing from Texas, prefer the big-bellied, briny, an
challenges for these Gulf Coast oysters. The threats— oyster raw or cooked!
oyster drill, vibrio bacteria threat, drought and lack of For better or worse, times are changing
fresh water flow, a series of hurricanes, and the 2010 the Gulf Coast. Now, folks who travel freq
Deepwater Horizon disaster were all game changers and love raw oysters slurp a variety of the
gulf coast oysters
— —
tastiest farmed oysters at upscale restaurant raw dozen and half-dozen, and compared to an
bars and oyster bars all around the country. They else, they are still affordable. Here’s the tri
know it’s common practice at restaurants for when people pay more for wild oysters, oy
farmed oysters to be bought by the piece (singles), farmers can afford to grow them right. As
yet this concept is rarely seen at Gulf Coast Jacobsen put it, “when you give a Gulf oyst
restaurants. But here’s the game changer: now salty water, and an occasional shake to ke
we’re growing a new oyster from seed and above growing too fast, you get an oyster that’s
the seafloor, and there are dozens of oyster farms of the world.” But the days of knocking ba
producing uniquely different- wild Gulf oysters for 12
tasting succulent gems in several slipping away forever. R
Gulf states. The o -bottom a dozen farmed oysters
The familiar and affordable or New Orleans will co
farmed oyster
wild Gulf Coast oysters bought dollars!
by the pound, provided by the could help And while the overall
sack, and sold by the dozen at doing business has incr
sustain
local restaurants and oyster to meet the demands o
bars, are now experiencing a big the wild oyster consumer, there’s been
cultural shift. Off-bottom oyster harvest decline not onl
natural sets
farmers who buy the oyster seed wild oysters themselves
from a hatchery can grow them throughout the oystering folks who
to market size in about as little off the bay. Wild oyste
the Gulf regions.
as 10 months, and simply look becoming increasingly e
to get a better return for their to sustainably harvest.
investment. Often, oyster seeds the size of a pin changes, such as strict bay closures to pro
head are less expensive to the oyster rancher, but species, can force a fisherman to relocate.
have a high mortality rate. Dime-sized oyster seeds large, this is the reason interest in alternat
are more expensive, but have a lower mortality growing began along the Gulf Coast. Jobs
rate. Other ranchers have invested in the hatchery being created and the future remains hope
equipment to cultivate their own larval seedlings oyster farming. I fully embrace the farm-rai
and can offer them for less. Nevertheless, there’s oyster—it’s the oyster of the future. The o
a new oyster in town—the off-bottom farm-raised farmed oyster could help sustain the wild o
oyster. A pristine farm-raised oyster can rival some natural sets throughout the Gulf regions.
of the tastiest cold water, farm-produced oysters in
the country. ST CENTURY
An unfortunate by-product from the decline of BACK-BAY FARMING
the wild oyster and their natural sets is that Gulf Bill Walton (Auburn University Associate P
Coast oysters are no longer quite so cheap. Here in and Alabama entrepreneur Steve Crockett
the Gulf states, raw bars still sell wild oysters by the first to successfully pioneer oyster farming
gulf coast oysters
— —
Oyster ranches in Oyster Bay in Panacea, Florida, are partnering with Wakulla Environmental Institute (WEI).
Alabama’s bay back in 2009. They have both learned and getting them onto menus, yet identifyi
from mistakes and survived the unforeseen. Pristine oysters by their heritage bay.
water quality is not always a guarantee, and the Gulf In this book, I plan to share my oyster-c
of Mexico’s bay waters are often at risk. Inclement discoveries with you as I visit oyster farms
weather conditions, too much or not enough rain, the Gulf of Mexico. Someone had to do an
red tide, and the struggles inherited from oyster memoir to include the Redneck Riviera, I ju
fishermen are an annual challenge for hard-working, happened to think of it first. Things usually
serious oyster farmers. Since 2009, there have been a little slower along the Florida Panhandle
a growing number of outfits along the Gulf carving our neighbors to the west, and I like it that
out a niche for small-batch, premium, Southern- The casual lifestyle of the Gulf Coast lends
raised oysters. These are some of the prettiest, to ample outdoor entertaining and gatheri
tastiest, deepest-cupped oysters in the marketplace. barbecues, shrimp and crab boils, fish fries
Along the Gulf of Mexico, the oyster culture varies roasts, or just raw oyster shucking from th
from state to state, as does the taste of an oyster a pickup truck. I love this place!
from place to place; just ask any oyster purist. Please thumb through this cookbook an
Nevertheless, it’s hard to convince both the Gulf the sensible and delicious raw oyster sauce
Coast oyster consumer and Gulf Coast industry as the topping recipes for premium farm-r
folks of this cultural-shift struggle that is being Coast oysters, and savor the Gulf Coast tr
experienced within the oyster industry in this region. cooked-oyster culture for large Gulf Coast
It’s about accepting premium farm-raised oysters from the country’s last great bays.
gulf coast oysters
— —
The Iconic & Insurmountable
Gulf Coast Oyster
— —
Diving In
— —
Merroir: The Terroir of the Sea
— —
Off-Bottom Oyster Farming for the Gulf Coast
— —
Identifying Farmed Gulf Coast Oysters
— —
Eat Oysters WheneveR
— —
Shucking Oysters
— —
Oyster Farm Profiles
diving in
The Gulf of Mexico is known as the American in the country, and most come from Louis
“Fertile Crescent” of seafood, particularly when it ample reefs.
comes to oysters. Rowan Jacobsen, in his book A
Geography of Oysters,says, “European explorers FOOD AND GROWTH
were amazed by early accounts of the region which Generally, Gulf Coast oysters grow subtida
claimed that oysters grew on trees.” Metaphorically mean low tide. Oysters grow along most G
speaking, this statement makes sense because bays, as well as the East Coast saltwater cr
oysters were so abundant at the time—though riverbanks, and exposed mud flats. In shallo
oysters have been observed growing on mangrove waters, these oysters can experience rapid
tree roots, pilings, poles, and ropes in many Gulf changing temperatures, including freezing
tidal zones since then. Jacobsen also claims that the winter, but are rarely killed by extremes
Crassostrea virginica,the Gulf oyster, does “not have temperature. However, oyster productivity
the strongest taste of any oyster, but does have the within each bay system. The amount of foo
cleanest. It tastes of the sea and not much else, and the water and the water’s temperature can
for that reason it should be the oyster against which whether the meat will be lean or plump, an
all others should be measured.” much the oyster grows.
The Eastern oyster (C. virginica)is native from When water temperatures increase into
the northern reaches of Prince Edward Island to 68°F range, oysters will spawn (i.e., r
down through Cape Cod and the Chesapeake; on eggs and sperm). This process generally be
to Apalachicola, New Orleans, and Texas; and then in May and continues somewhat into Sept
south through the Caribbean and the Yucatan Once the eggs have been fertilized, in as lit
Peninsula. Oyster reefs on the West Coast have the hours they hatch into free-swimming la
exotic Pacific or Japanese oyster, C. gigas,and the These miniature and immature beings have
native Olympia oyster, Ostreola conchaphila,which limited motion, mostly moving with the tid
can even be found in California and Washington. the currents. Two to three weeks after hat
The oyster reefs of the northern Gulf of Mexico they settle to the bottom, where they mus
are noteworthy on a national scale, largely because a hard, clean surface for permanent attach
they are still there. The temperate waters of the Larvae that are unable to find a suitable pl
Gulf provide exceptional environmental conditions attachment will sink to the bottom and die
for the Eastern oysters, making them abundant, secrete a fluid that permanently adheres th
fast growing, delicious, large, and affordable. The shell to the surface of attachment, and the
industry, which stretches from Florida to Texas, attached oysters—called spat—never mov
produces more wild oysters than any other region It appears that almost any hard, clean surf
gulf coast oysters
— —
acceptable, but other oyster shells seem to be been caused by natural occurrences includ
the most-favored surface. Oyster shells that are hurricanes, drought, flooding, oyster-drill p
purposefully planted to attract oyster larvae are mud worms, boring sponge, and red tide. R
known as “cultch.” droughts in the Southeast caused the fres
Gulf Coast oysters grow rapidly, at a rate of flow from northern Georgia to Apalachico
about 2 to 3 inches in as little as 10 to 12 months, be curtailed significantly. In addition, Florid
whereas in colder, northern waters, that growth lost an ongoing battle to cap Georgia’s wa
can take 2 to 4 years. Growth rates can be affected asserting that Peach State farmers and citi
by temperature, food quantity, salinity, and disease. using too much water, causing low river flo
Shell growth usually occurs in the spring, and soft- the Florida Panhandle. The lack of flow fro
body tissue growth occurs after spawning. Many north resulted in an unhealthy imbalance in
Gulf oysters are so large because bottom-raised estuaries. Basically, more seawater was get
wild oysters harvested in the Gulf states—Florida, than freshwater. It can be said that those
Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Texas—must are indirectly related to human interferenc
reach the minimal legal market size of 3 inches. nature, but the Deepwater Horizon oil spil
This enables the oysters to continue to grow even was a direct consequence. Ironically, the e
larger in the wild. triggered a panic to over-harvest the oyste
Apalachicola, even though the oil never rea
SUSTAINABILITY the bay.
AND SURVIVABILITY Similar circumstances affect oyster reefs
As members of the bivalve-mollusks group, both production for all five states along the Gul
oysters and clams live in marine or brackish habitats. Mexico. It’s nearly impossible to recover fu
As filter-feeders, they consume free-swimming after battling all the circumstances that ha
algae by filtering their food from the water, thus occurred over the many decades, which is
improving water quality. They open their shells to aquaculture has become even more impor
filter food from the water and close their shells for in the sustainability of the wild Gulf Coast
protection from predators and to prevent drying Aquaculture has now become an official, vi
out. As generations of oysters settle on top of each option for state legislators to consider. Th
other and grow, they form natural reefs that provide Coast oyster has had a long, prolific histor
structured habitat for many fish and crab species. its natural set has seen its period of declin
The shallow, pristine Apalachicola Bay was now making its comeback using alternative
once known for its abundant namesake oysters. growing methods.
The decline of oyster production there has
gulf coast oysters
— —
Merroir:
The Terroir of the Sea
In the 21st century, oysters have often been Understanding merroir is essential if you
described by the same elevated prose usually to know how the oysters you’re ordering w
associated with wines. The term merroir is a word taste and feel in your mouth. It is the taste
coined back in 2003 by Seattle Timeswriter Jon the freshly shucked oyster, along with its li
Rowley and his friend, Chef Greg Atkinson, that slurped straight out of its shell that dictate
simply means the group of characteristics oysters unique flavor nuances of the oyster in its p
acquire from their natural environment and the form. Oyster purists believe that the geogr
water in which they live. In the world of wine, the and specifically where the oyster is grown
grape tells you the whole story—the appellation and makes the notable difference detected in it
its climate, the vineyard and its soil, and the vintner’s How exactly does each oyster get its ow
technique for making the wine. For the American flavor? Unsurprisingly, it’s Mother Nature t
oyster, this boils down to the bay’s influence. The provides the balancing act of salinity. Fresh
story is told by the bay or estuary, distinct climate feeds the oysters’ growing spot and intera
influences, and the grower’s method of care and with the Gulf’s salty, tidal action, often infl
cultivation. Essentially, merroir is underwater terroir. by protective barrier islands, which contrib
The oyster’s unique physical characteristics begin to survival, size, health, and flavor. Howeve
with size, cup, shape, and degree of clarity. Flavor remember that not only does the flavor de
nuances can vary from mild to sharp brininess and the type of oyster, water temperature, and
full body, with some “kelpier” than others, while yet they are farmed, but also on the oyster’s s
others are sweet, creamy, and buttery, with a clean, of phytoplankton, microscopic organisms,
crisp finish. Again, these descriptions may strike you general mineralogy generated by the seaflo
as easily attributable to the nuances of white wines. of these factors come together to give the
I am a ostreaphile of both wild bottom-cultivated Coast oyster its exceptional flavor.
and off-bottom cultivated farm-raised oysters. Off-bottom farmed oysters are certain to be the Gulf Coast’s great oyster comeback, yet there are still hundreds of varieties of wild oysters growing in natural and rebuilt reef sets along the Gulf Coast from Louisiana to Florida. They are all still from the same species of Eastern oyster (C. virginica)and vary from state to state, but even oysters from the same
bay can vary in size, salinity, meat content, and taste. Camanada Bay sunset with shrimp boat; Grand Isle, Lou
gulf coast oysters
— —
Off-Bottom Oyster Farming
for the Gulf Coast
their gills to capture the nutrients. The wa becomes cleaner and other sea life flourish a result, which ultimately is great for us.
GROW-OUT SYSTEMS FO THE GULF COAST OYSTE
Gulf Coast oyster farmers are always findin ways to raise oysters, but there are curren common grow-out systems being used in t
of Mexico. Each system allows oyster farm
Murder Point oyster farmers harvesting oysters for
flexibility to make decisions about how to
a tasting.
their crops based on their state’s bay lease
Aquaculture and Fisheries Specialist Bill Walton and their respective tide pools.
and entrepreneur Steve Crockett of Point aux Pins The most basic kind are off-bottom cag
Oyster Farm on Grand Bay in Bayou La Batre began baskets. These sit on short platforms mad
experimenting with different types of off-bottom sturdy materials, such as PVC piping or wir
growing methods on Steve’s 1-acre Alabama oyster materials, keeping the oysters just above t
farm business more than 7 years ago. “Off-bottom” seafloor. Oyster farmers retrieve these by
means that the oysters never touch the sandy or the cages up to the surface either by hand
sometimes muddy seafloor. This type of oyster and hook, or from a line attached to a floa
aquaculture (mariculture) holds oysters in a mesh Another widely used system uses floatin
basket, bag, or cage that is kept above the bottom. or baskets that float just below the surfac
This protects them from predators and from being technique allows the oysters to feed and g
buried below the muddied sand. being flipped-over periodically by hand or b
In the Gulf of Mexico, warmer waters let oysters depending on the water depth and tide. W
reach market size in under 12 months, whereas baskets (or cages) are out of the water, bo
it might take 2 to 4 years in other bays and inlets oysters and their containers have a chance
around the country’s coastlines. Oyster farming out (desiccate) and get clean. More impor
also serves a dual function by being both naturally the quicker lift to the surface controls the
sustainable and environmentally friendly. Farmed created by barnacles and secondary spat.
oysters feed off the microscopic algae in the water, The other system uses adjustable Austra
filtering up to 50 gallons of water each day through longlines, where baskets are strung along li
gulf coast oysters
— —
Bill Walton sampling and sizing first harvest oysters for Pensacola Bay Oyster Co.
between pilings or PVC pipes. Along the line, the premium singles market. Around the co
there are pipes with tide clips that let the farmers premium farmed oyster is often ready for
decide at what tidal height they want to raise their at 2 to 2 ⁄inches. During my oyster farm o
oysters. Some farmers using this system will attach (see page 32), I found that Florida, Louisia
thick lengths of sturdy foam to each basket and Texas oyster farmers let them grow in thei
remove the clips completely to let them rise and fall sets to 3 to 4 inches. Furthermore, in Gulf
naturally with the tides. inches is the minimum legal size for harve
Oyster farming may well complement the wild- bottomland oysters.
harvest oyster fishery, given that a significant portion I asked Bill Walton, “Why is it okay for a
of wild-harvested oyster meat is intended for the farmer to produce a smaller oyster, when t
shucked market, both raw and cooked, rather than size for wild oysters in Gulf states is 3 inch
Bill replied, “the rationale is that a fishery n oysters to be large enough to reproduce b they are harvested. Farmed oysters aren’t to ‘contribute’ to the fishery, and are harv off private farms, so they can be whatever market wants.”
A 2- to 2 ⁄-inch Gulf Coast off-bottom r oyster is considered ideally sized for the bo premium oyster market. A very competitive has developed for these chic “high-born bi up the Atlantic seaboard to the Northeast
Oyster cages at Massacre Island, Alabama. to the West Coast and Pacific Northwest.
gulf coast oysters
— —
Identifying Farmed
Gulf Coast Oysters
COMMODITY VS. PREMIUM
People want to know where their seafood comes from, especially the origin of their Gulf Coast oysters. In the late 1800s, wild oysters adopted the name of the exact location they came from, but are often identified by their state of origin. Texas oyster expert Robb Walsh said it best: “At the time of the Civil War, oysters from Pepper Grove Reef in East Galveston Bay were very popular in oyster bars. So were the oysters from Lady’s Pass and several other spots. Galveston Bay oysters were always identified by place name back in the late 1800s.”
Somewhere along the way, the practice of collecting hundreds of sacks of oysters and then transporting them in one mass became second nature to the dealer. When you have a trailer
truck brimming with wild oysters, you might have Conveyor at Bon Secour Fisheries used for sorting and
culling Louisiana sack wild oysters.
three hundred sacks picked from three or four
different fishermen, and they’re all being sold as
one lot. Therefore, they are processed and tagged That is what makes a commodity oyster. T
to include the wholesaler’s identification number, commodity oyster is what the Gulf of Mexi
date of harvest, harvest area, name or number, been famous for. But now an oyster origin
type of shellfish, quantity of shellfish, a sell-by along the Gulf Coast is underway for the b
date, and are usually called by their accrual name reef and particularly off-bottom cage-grow
such as Louisiana Oysters, Texas Oysters, Alabama varieties.
Oysters, or simply Gulf Oysters.
The wild Gulf oyster still maintains this MINDSET AND MARKET
traditional method of collecting, sorting, and bulk- The Gulf Coast off-bottom oyster farmer h
dealing from several small oyster boats throughout entered the premium oyster market; to ma
a region. To this day, bottom-harvested oysters are ⁄- to 3-inch bivalve, purists prefer labelin
delivered as a representative of one state’s oyster. appellations. Farmed oysters taste differen
gulf coast oysters
— —
Half-shell oyster tasting scoreboard at the North American Oyster Showcase, Hangout Oyster Cook-Off in Gulf Shores, Alabama.
bay, and knowing the appellation for bottom-reef and landmarks: Magnolia Bluff along the W
varieties allows the detection of taste differences Bay and Garcon Point along East Bay, both
versus off-bottom oysters from bay to bay. The different watersheds.
oyster’s name, place of origin, grower, and its typical
characteristics are also important to the purist. EVERY OYSTER HAS A ST
However, not all regions have this mindset. Many Oyster-growing experiments began decade
Florida oyster farmers are not as concerned with along both the Florida and Alabama Gulf C
claiming fame to individual merroir, while some Oyster grower’s stories are as unique as th
Alabama farmers located side-by-side in Sandy Bay themselves. My friend Bill Walton is unique
feel strongly that their oysters both look and taste experience and wealth of knowledge for no
different because of the way they are nurtured. attaining seed, but in supporting start-up o
In Florida, Panacea Co-op members and student farmers and troubleshooting for off-botto
ranches are in the very same body of water in growers throughout the Gulf states. Bill be
Wakulla County’s Oyster Bay. Many are side-by- that the oyster-growing industry is still in i
side, just an oyster toss away, sharing the St. Marks along the coast of north Florida. Even dec
River and the percolating spring waters in their Florida clam hatcheries have been experim
estuary. These individually farmed oysters are with more oyster seeds during the past few
purchased through the co-op, and are represented years and they are still experimenting on h
as Panacea Pearls. effectively tend to their crops. The oyster
Some independent ranchers in Panacea’s supply is not quite enough to go around a
Oyster Bay and nearby Alligator Harbor brand demand is high.
their oysters with their company name, such as The grower, or rancher, dictates the nur
OysterMom Oysters and Saucey Lady Oysters. In of their floating cages, off-bottom cages, f
Pensacola, Pensacola Bay Oyster Company names baskets, and longline baskets of oyster see
theirs for Escambia Bay’s scenic highway locations and juveniles. They create their own unique
gulf coast oysters
— —
marketable oyster. The choice of growing method including its shape (length, width, and cup)
and technique alters the shell’s shape and size, (inches), and markings (color, stripes, and
while incorporating the grower’s individual biofouling); a parts per thousand (ppt) sali
philosophy and experience to hone their oysters before open harvesting, indicating salt leve
for their target market. Some do little or nothing low (10) to high (30) number; and a blend
at all, which helps keep cost to a minimum and items from state harvest/dealer tag details
the oysters affordable. Off-bottom, cage-grown illustrations). This wealth of information a
oysters set 6 inches off the bay bottom are a good the restaurants, raw bars, and public in gen
example of a minimalist approach. Some are only identify their own favorite oyster.
handled 3 to 4 times during their growing cycle,
mostly with infrequent sorting by tumbling. Quite
TYPICAL SIZING
often, the smaller ones are re-planted and not FOR OFF-BOTTOM
FARM-RAISED OYSTERS
touched again until the farmer is ready to harvest.
Another factor is wet storage. This storage Cocktail, Boutique, Premium: 2 to 3-
method uses filtered and recirculated seawater Selects: 3 to 4-inch
in tanks to temporarily hold oysters so they don’t Large: 4 to 6-inch
die before they arrive at their destination. This
also helps to mediate supply interruptions due
to rainfall closures. However, bundling different This appears to be a promising start to the
varieties in the same pool of water becomes burgeoning coastal economy that could re
controversial and often sounds dreadful to the struggling fishing communities all along the
oyster purist, affecting and distracting from the states. Amid trying times for the wild oyste
oyster’s true flavor and natural salinity. population in the Gulf states, there now ap
Ideally, identification measures for farmed be a better way of identifying and acknowl
oysters are something like this: visual-recognition, the emergent farmed oyster’s birthright, an
top-quality product w
Dealer tag. compared to its natu
counterpart. Restaur gastro-pubs, and oys all around the countr cashing in on the gro detailed knowledge a on farmed oysters, in place of origin, availa grower, price, handlin preparation: the birth
craft oyster.
gulf coast oysters
— —
Eat Oysters
WheneveR
One expression and unproven theory often heard seasons are different for the Gulf of Mexic
in the oyster world is “Never eat oysters in a month book,Sex, Death and Oysters, Walsh expla
without an R.” Now let’s see—May, June, July, and Oyster meat becomes creamy before sp
August—hey, those months don’t have the letter happens as the water begins to warm, th
R! In the Deep South, along the Gulf Coast, eating thin, and translucent. This silky, sweet-cr
oysters all summer long is not unusual. After all, the texture is different from the oyster’s tex
word “summer” has an R in it, right? And what’s in a the rest of the year. When water temper
letter, anyway? get colder at the end of the summer, oy
Not to worry. begin storing a carbohydrate compound
glycogen. To humans, glycogen tastes lik
HISTORIC BACKGROUND sugar. As the water gets colder, more gly
The Native Americans are alleged to have accumulates, and the oyster gets plump
introduced this precaution centuries ago. The and tastes sweeter. Gulf oysters are at t
advice also dates back at least to 1599, when it absolute peak at the coldest part of the
appeared in Englishman Henry Buttes’ cookbook, With the onset of warmer water temper
Dyets Dry Dinner,though some historians trace it to in April, oysters begin to convert glycoge
an obscure, ancient Latin saying. gonad (reproductive material). As the su
approaches and temperature rises, the o
FLAVOR progressively loses its sweetness, becom
Storyteller and author M.F.K. Fisher grew up in and more “fishy” tasting. It’s not an unp
Marseille and Dijon, France, and in 1941 published flavor—in fact many oyster lovers like it
the iconic Consider the Oyster.People who have isn’t sweet.
broken the rule and bought oysters in those I agree with Walsh.
forbidden months say —as Fisher put it—that they This old dilemma has recently inspired a
are “the most delicious then: full and flavorsome.” potential scientific fix by modifying oysters
She notes the discriminating rule is not stringent avoid the processes that make them less t
in Europe, and desirable taste is often of personal the summer months. Here is a quick explan
preference. There are two main types of oyster seed
Texas author Robb Walsh, has determined that cultivated: diploid and triploid. A ploidy is t
there’s more science to the theory than one would number of sets of chromosomes in a cell.
expect, explaining, “the famous ‘months without found in nature are normally diploid, mean
an R’ saying came from Northern Europe, but the they have two sets each of male and femal
gulf coast oysters
— —
The old rule of thumb was to eat oyster the months with the letter R in their name in colder weather, oysters would not spoil Today, however, refrigeration keeps them oysters can be harvested year-round.
TOXINS
History proves eating raw oysters is unsafe
certain groups of people because some ra
My first tasting of briny and supple full-sized Caminada Bay
contain bacteria or viruses that can cause
Oysters was here, at Dicky Brennan's Street Bourbon Bar in
New Orleans. The abundance of Vibrio vulnificus,a po
deadly bacterium in Gulf oysters that caus
chromosomes. Genetically manipulated triploids vibrosis, has been linked to warmer water
have two sets of female chromosomes and one set temperature. V. vulnificuscan cause severe
of male chromosomes. and death in people with certain underlying
Triploid oysters have two important advantages medical conditions. Even though it has littl
over diploid oysters during their life cycles. In the or no effect on the healthiest people, slurp
summer months, when regular diploid oysters raw oysters from the Gulf during the summ
are spawning (i.e., releasing eggs and sperm into months, especially in August, is somewhat
the water, which makes the oyster meat lean and A similar bacterium, V. parahaemolyticus,c
watery), they are often considered undesirable for also cause food poisoning. Walsh found th
slurping. Triploid oysters are reproductively sterile, though Vibrio bacteria primarily occur in t
so they are incapable of normal sexual maturation. Gulf of Mexico, “raw shellfish consumed in
This means triploid oysters remain firm, full, and warm summer months have sickened peop
sweet during the summer. This sterility also leads Washington State and as far north as Alas
to improved growth rates, because they don’t There is no way to tell the difference bet
spend energy reproducing. Most farmers are a contaminated oyster and one that is not
experimenting and growing both types. contaminated by looking at it. However, if
oyster has a shrink-wrapped band around i
SPOILAGE means it has been treated for Vibrio bacte
All around the country, specifically the Gulf of Another interesting phenomenon seen in
Mexico, oyster and shellfish production can be recent decades is red tide. This is a vast blo
problematic during the summer. Historically, warm of red algae that collects along coastlines
months made for bad or even toxic wild oysters for the waters are warming, more commonly s
many reasons. The most logical reason was that in August and into September. Red tide cause
the days before refrigeration, shellfish were more irritations in humans and spreads toxins th
likely to spoil in the heat. soaked up by all shellfish, including oysters
gulf coast oysters
— —
and mussels. The Gulf of Mexico warms quicker the on-the-half-shell purist. It was designed
and longer than the Pacific in the summer months. satisfy the Food and Drug Administration (
Handling procedures and updated harvesting by reducing Vibrio bacteria to non-detecta
regulations for red tide invasion in all five Gulf levels in our beloved Gulf oysters. Perhaps
states are in place to ensure public safety. biggest difference between purchasing trea
The New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture, oysters and non-treated oysters is that raw
Volume 7 Foodways(2007) says: straight from the boat remain alive until th
Oysters are susceptible to bio-toxins in the shucked and eaten. Three of these treatme
water. State and federal agencies monitor the oyster and one does not. Nevertheless
and approve oyster beds that are safe for Coast oyster bars and restaurants mostly
commercial harvesting. Public health safety traditional untreated raw oysters, with ma
is always the number one concern. Proper ostreaphiles, and consumers saying that th
handling protocol for oysters sold to restaurants, is a noticeable difference in taste when eat
seafood markets, and urban area grocery stores bacteria-treated processed oysters.
must be commercially harvested and from
properly licensed dealers and processors. As a Here are the treatment methods:
result, oysters are subject to strictly enforced • AmeriPure Oyster Co. of Franklin, Louisi
regulations intended to eliminate such took the lead, founding the Heat-Cool
potential hazards. Pasteurization (HCP)process for oyst
, and using a signature AmeriPure ru
GULF COAST POST-HARVESTING band for zero possibility of opening duri
TECHNIQUES FOR WILD OYSTERS process. This is a patented process in w
Along the Gulf Coast, and weather permitting, wild oysters are heated on trays in warm wat
oysters are harvested every day. They are then °F for 20 minutes, and then dipped in
refrigerated, or iced, in the proper time-allotment cold water for 15 minutes.
right out of water, and tagged to denote the harvest
area and with a specific landing timeframe before • Mike Voisin of Motivatit Seafood in Lou
being picked up by certified dealers. The dealers use and his family research team discovered
refrigerated trucks to transport them to processing patented a quite different bacterial treat
facilities, restaurants, and retailers. This reduces the process in 1999. Their High-Pressure
risk for incorrect handling. Pasteurization (HPP) process essentia
There are four bacteria treatment methods deactivates the Vibrio bacteria at the mo
currently in place and available along the Gulf level by subjecting the oysters to intense
Coast for wild-harvested oysters. These are pressure. Oysters are placed into a cylin
commercial, government-inspected processes that goes into a high-pressure water cha
devised to reduce your risk completely. But Water is then pumped into the chamber
oyster-eaters beware, the process is not for surrounding the cylinder for three minut
gulf coast oysters
— —
exerting pressures of 35,000 to 40,000 pounds per square inch. Oysters, kept shut with the signature gold rubber band, are kept under this immense pressure for 3 minutes.
• Grady Leavins, a resilient Apalachicola oyster
fisherman transplant and visionary, developed Individual Quick Freezing (IQF), in which half-shell oysters are rapidly frozen and then stored until consumption. In 2004, the technology was in full-swing for what he coined the “Frosted Oyster”: an oyster that has been automatically shucked and then flash-frozen with liquid nitrogen.
• Low-Dose Gamma Irradiation (LDG) is the
only process that does not kill the oyster. The process itself was developed more than 50 years
ago, but testing on oysters didn’t begin until Magnolia Bluff Oysters on the half shell from Pensacola
Oyster Co.
the early 2000s. In preparation for irradiation,
oysters are first individually rubber banded,
boxed, and wrapped to secure onto a pallet. That has been proven. However, unless the
Pallets are fork-lifted onto refrigerated trucks bay closures in place by state agencies, the
and shipped to Gateway America for treatment, water is considered healthy and it is open s
and then trucked back to the processor for year-round. Additionally, in the Gulf Coast
distribution. The Mississippi facility is located cooked oysters are as equally significant as
at the Gulfport-Biloxi International Airport and oysters. Since the 17th century, fresh oyste
is specially equipped for treating foods in this eaten raw. Eventually, large big-bellied oyst
manner to ensure public safety. LDG is often were being cooked with roasted fowl, stew
considered the preferred method since it is less with herbs and spices, roasted, or baked in
invasive, and unlike the other three methods, it Keeping this tradition in mind, remember t
kills just the bacteria and not the oyster. Vibrio bacteria are destroyed by cooking—
is any concern upon purchase, ask to have
Gulf oysters are at their best, most opaque, oysters roasted, steamed, grilled, baked, or
crispest, and plumpest in the cold-water months, or purchase oysters that have been treate
which is why we traditionally associate the winter of the above ways. Don’t restrict yourself f
and early spring months as prime oyster time. enjoying oysters year-round.
gulf coast oysters
— —
shucking oysters
PREPARATION Rinse the oysters with water to remove
Wet a kitchen towel and wring it out well. Spread sand or silt.
the damp towel flat on a work surface. Place a pie Next, select an oyster knife that is appro
pan on the towel with a wooden puck or raised inches long with a pointed tip. This is imp
surface in the center for shucking. The pie pan will because smaller oysters have a small apex
catch any spilled juices, which can be used in recipes a thin but sturdy shell. Thicker knives with
that call for oyster liquor. If you prefer to shuck point work best on larger wild oysters that
oysters in your hand, I recommend using a sturdy more force to open.
glove or steel-mesh glove.
Place the oyster on the raised surface, cup side Once the knife is set, push, turn, and ap
down. Fold a small dish towel to fit your hand and medium torque to pop open the hinge.
firmly hold the oyster in place. Next, insert the knife deep into the hinge with a slight twisting motion as shown. Be careful and go slow. Wiggle the blade until you feel the knife set. Do not try to open just yet.
gulf coast oysters
— —
When the hinge is popped, use your fingers to Hold the shell open and slide the blade
pry up the top shell (also called the cap). the cap, gently dragging and jiggling the kni
scrape the shell from the adductor muscle
and save the shell.
Now that the cap is removed, clean the knife The oyster has been shucked. Set the o
tip on the towel, and then slide blade under oyster its shell directly onto ice or a tray.
meat to remove from bottom adductor muscle. Touch the meat gently and you will feel it release. Do not puncture the oyster meat. Once meat is loosened, use tip of the knife to remove any grit or
new shell growth around the meat and on edges.
gulf coast oysters
— —
Oyster Farm Profiles
Throughout this book, you will find profiles on Gulf in the Mississippi Sound, in Heron Bay, and
Coast oyster farms I was able to visit and explore. Mobile Bay, funded primarily through fine
In Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana, we grow the associated with the 2010 Gulf oil spill. The
tastiest, most pristine oysters from seed to final on the Gulf Coast is seen as a model for h
growth in less than one year. I have documented restore oysters.” In 2017, new lines and ge
information and photographs of specific farms from installed for Grand Bay Oyster Park, which
these states, but here is some general information used for both commercial operations and
about the oyster growing culture and processes in On the other side of Mobile Bay from Pe
each state. Florida, is Dauphin Island. I discovered this
wonderful coastal town in 2015 when I att
ALABAMA my first Oyster Symposium. Dauphin Island
“Alabama’s reefs are known to have decreased only a fishing and summer resort, but is als
dramatically in the last century because of to the Auburn University Shellfish Lab. The
overharvest and declining water quality. A massive Lab, as they call it, is where Bill Walton and
effort funded by the National Oceanic and team hatch the oyster seeds that are the b
Atmospheric Administration and state officials has the oyster seeds grown and sold througho
begun to restore vast areas of reef that had been Southeast.
lost,” says Ben Raines, in his 2012 article titled Wild The bay is accessible from Mississippi So
Oyster Reefs in Mobile Bay and the Mississippi through a privately marked and dredged ch
Sound Are Rare, Precious, and Delicate. “Restoration and is also open to Mobile Bay through an
projects of Alabama reefs include Coffee Island protected by a jetty close to Pelican Point.
geographical proximity makes it ideal for g oysters. The region was “conditionally app for growing and harvesting oysters by the Department of Public Health. Dauphin Isla is a shallow bay at the east end of Dauphin between Dauphin Island Bridge and Little D Island. In this location, oyster riparian right successfully being obtained to allow water landowners locations for establishing off-b oyster farms.
Auburn University Marine Center work boat on Dauphin With all the excitement about alternativ
Island, Alabama. growing, the demand for seed is exceeding
gulf coast oysters
— —
supply for other neighboring states like Florida. formerly degraded, natural oyster reefs ha
Alabama currently leads in single-seed production restored: from St. Lucie Estuary to the No
for the Gulf Coast states, producing millions of Fork of the Loxahatchee River to a more r
larvae and seeds. restoration project in Pensacola’s Escambi
Massacre Island Oyster Co. and Mobile Bay Attempts have been made to restore all
Oyster Co., located on the Mississippi Sound- functioning ecosystems, providing many be
Dauphin Island, and for humans and th
Murder Point Oyster Co. environment. Of c
at Grand Bay are three of oyster reefs provid
the 12 commercial oyster essential habitat st
growers in operation for many forms of
throughout the Mobile Bay life: shrimp, clams,
region. Bill Walton recently snails, and a variet
told me that two new recreationally imp
farm permits have been fish such as gag gr
issued, which means that gray snapper, redfi
oyster growers will be in and sheepshead. T
Shucking and tasting Mobile Bay Oyster Co. oysters
operation by the time this straight from an oyster bag in a flipped submerged what a healthy eco
floating cage on Dauphin Island, Alabama, with
book is published. I wish does and it can ha
Bill Walton.
that I could have visited far-reaching, long-
all the oyster farms and met all the farmers in benefits for neighboring ecosystems.
Alabama. Unfortunately, that was not possible, but Bottom-culture oyster-farming has been
they’re on my oyster bucket list. promoted in various forms and shaped by
laws for more than 100 years. In the 21st c
Current Alabama Aquaculture Zones state-permitted water column leases have
Area I:Mobile Bay and Mississippi Sound approved to make way for off-bottom bas
Area II:Grand Bay and Portersville Bay farming. A few who oppose this somewhat
Area III:Bon Secour Bay technique have attempted to physically sab
the process. I strongly believe that off-bot
FLORIDA farming enables fishermen and their familie
Florida’s river and spring systems converge with the to stay on the water by simply retraining th
Gulf of Mexico, creating a unique balance between to the already familiar cultivating and harve
fresh and salt water, and making it one of the most techniques that previous generations have
fertile estuarine areas in the world. These waters are for decades.
home to more than 300 living species, including the State officials have recommended that o
beloved oyster, where nutrient-rich phytoplankton aquaculture be operated on an even larger
are their lifeblood. In recent years, many of Florida’s scale. As a top-priority issue to accelerate
gulf coast oysters
— —
recovery, entrepreneurs are encouraged to take Levy County:Derricks, Pelican Reef (with
a leap of faith and stimulate the creation of new Gulf Jackson, Dog Island East, Dog Island N
jobs. Early in 2017, there were approximately Island, Corrigan’s Reef, Corrigan’s North
leases granted and only half of them are in Charlotte County:Gasparilla Sound, Nort
use. Where is that poster of Uncle Sam wearing Island, South Piney Island
waders? As you can surmise, Florida is just getting Collier County:Cape Romano, Whitehors
started! Palm Bay County:Volusia Bay, Body A, Bo
As you can see from the list below, Florida’s Gulf Brevard County:Body F and Indian River
of Mexico coastline is strewn with readily available
oyster aquaculture zones. Yet, only a handful of LOUISIANA
bays and river estuaries are in full operation. In the mid-1800s, Croatian fisherman and
families began migrating to America for th
Current Florida Aquaculture Zones time. After arriving to the New World, man
(subject to modifications) their way to Louisiana, which turned out t
Escambia County:Escambia Bay, East Bay the perfect home for them to use their fis
Franklin County: Alligator Harbor skills. Louisiana is still recognized world-wi
Wakulla County:Apalachee Bay area, Oyster Bay, its numerous wetlands and waterways, and
Skipper Bay shrimping, fishing, crabbing, and oystering
Dixie County:Horseshoe, Long Bar, Shired Reef, widespread. One such Croatian fisherman
Piney Island Popich, who started P&J Oyster Co. to dis
bottom-cultivated oysters. It is now the na oldest continuously working oyster house. In recent years, Louisiana’s oyster produ has been compromised by saltwater intrus to coastal erosion. This has resulted in inc predators and a subsequent decrease in bo cultivated oyster production. One of the b to impede coastal erosion is to have oyste firmly embedded into the ecosystem. Know this, the state of Louisiana has invested mi into reef restoration and coastal rebuilding As an alternative solution, cage-grown o are being used since they are protected fro predators. This allows the oysters to be gr
in areas where they can no longer reprodu
Magnolia Bluff location (Pensacola Bay Oyster Co.), off
a wild setting and can place them in estuar
Scenic Highway 90 in Pensacola, Florida. otherwise perfectly suited for oyster growi
gulf coast oysters
— —
major keys to growing a delicious bayou-dipped oyster in Louisiana are to find a nutrient-rich current and knowing how to “chase the salinity.” Beyond these seemingly simple tasks, the hardest part is finding a common ground between the fishermen who live, know, and work the estuaries, and the many conservationists who focus on long-term rebuilding. Fortunately, this struggle has been made easier by the likes of Oyster Specialist John Supan from LSU, the Godfather of the triploid oyster. He and others in the field have been instrumental in the search for alternative oyster growing methods. Over the years, Supan researched the aquaculture methods of other oyster-growing regions to arrive at a process for breeding triploid oysters. As discussed earlier, since triploid oysters don’t spawn, they reach market size quicker than those that do. Supan sees
Hand oyster-shucking station at Bon Secour Fisheries
off-bottom cultivation as a way to accomplish the in Bon Secour, Alabama.
goals of both sides of the debate during the last
decade. But don’t become too complacent with beds are nestled in a maze of estuarine cha
the notion that off-bottom oyster farming can accessible only by boat. The oysters are m
trump Mother Nature and all her surprises—it’s dredged (i.e., scraped by machine) or some
no surprise to me that Supans’s favorite question picked by tongs for harvesting.
to off-bottom oyster farming entrepreneurs is, Currently, there are three off-bottom oy
“What’s your hurricane plan?” farmers with active leases at Caminada Bay
Now here’s the skinny on the industry in entire state of Louisiana; however, leasing
Louisiana. Native oyster harvesting parishes have been expanded and new leases have b
consist of private leases and some 30 public areas approved for the area.
extending hundreds of miles across southern Louisiana also produces millions of seed
Louisiana, which are sanctioned and carefully leaning on the Michael C. Voisin Oyster Ha
regulated by the state. According to the Louisiana facility located at the Department of Wildl
Wild Life Fisheries and Oyster Task Force, the Oyster Hatchery Building on Grand Isle. Lo
state maintains almost 1.7 million acres of public chooses to keep seeds in-state by providin
areas, and there are also approximately 400,000 them to their own Grand Isle oyster farme
acres of privately owned leases. These oyster reseeding their own reefs.
gulf coast oysters
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Drops, Mignonettes,
Mists & Hot Sauces
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Lemon-Olive Oil Mist with Red Pepper Flakes
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Watermelon Habanero Hot Sauce
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Berry & Smoky Jalapeٌo Mignonette
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Magnolia Bluff Mignonette
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Mustard Seed Mignonette
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Tart Apple Mignonette
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Cucumber Mignonette
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Ruby Red Mignonette
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Sazerac Mignonette
Lemon-Olive Oil Mist
withRED PEPPER FLAKES
Makes about 2 1⁄2 ounces
Slurping oysters in the purest form requires little adornment, particularly for
the premium or cocktail oyster on the half shell. In fact, some oyster lovers snub the idea of adding anything more than a squeeze of lemon or a splash of hot sauce, and perhaps a simple cracker. On certain days, the harvested oyster has a perfect salinity, ranging from approximately 15 to 20 parts per thousand (ppt), and needs nothing at all to adorn it. Freshwater flow, location, wind direction, rain, and harvest depth dictate salinity levels, and when salinity falls below 14 ppt, oysters will have a mild flavor. Here is another great way to add a subtle and simple flavor enhancer— just a spritz of lemon-olive oil mixture, a pinch of heat, and depending on the oyster’s brine content, a pinch of sea salt.
/ounce extra-virgin olive oil Pinch sea salt (optional)
ounce fresh lemon juice,from 1 Pinch dried red pepper flakes
to 2 lemons
1 ounce bottled water
Shuck and taste the liquor of your premium oyster. If briny, do not add sea salt to the mixture. In a small mixing bowl, stir together olive oil, lemon juice, water, and a pinch of sea salt (if needed). Use a small funnel to pour the mixture into a small 2 to 4 ounce sanitized spray bottle. Shake well, mist over chilled oysters on the half shell, and then top each oyster with a pinch of red pepper flakes. Serve right away
gulf coast oysters
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Watermelon Habanero
HOT SAUCE
Makes about 2 cups
In the South, watermelon is the quintessential food for picnics on hot summer
days. Another wonderful treat is slurping down chilled cocktail oysters with a cold craft beer (or two). So why not bring the two foods together? In this recipe, the watermelon juice blend is cool and refreshing, countered with the spicy heat of a habanero pepper. This topping will provide a perfect balance of fire and sweetness to your oysters—truly the best of both worlds. And if you have some vodka lying about, add a splash (or two) to the watermelon juice mix while it’s still in the blender.
cups seedless ripe watermelon, /small habanero pepper,seeded
coarsely chopped and coarsely chopped
/pint raspberries /cup raspberry vinegar
medium shallot,coarsely teaspoon lime juice
chopped
3 small basil leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
Place watermelon, raspberries, shallot, habanero, vinegar, lime, and basil into blender. Cover, pulse, and run machine until mixture is smooth, about 10 seconds, and then transfer mixture to a small bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator for 2 hours. Just before serving, add a few turns from the peppermill over top and stir. Serve in a small bowl with a small spoon alongside premium Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell, and serve immediately.
Note: If you’re a fan of the spicy habanero pepper, you may choose to add more of the pepper. For us regular folks, half a pepper o ers plenty heat for this sauce.
gulf coast oysters
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Berry & Smoky Jalapeٌo
Mignonette
Makes about 2 cups
Nowadays, variations on components of mignonette sauce served with oysters
are as diverse as relish or salsa recipes for pork, chicken, beef, or fish. This
recipe provides a tasty foundation for creating a one-of-a-kind mignonette sauce for oysters. Pairing ripe seasonal berries with smoky chipotle peppers in adobo and fresh chilies will give you a strong sense of how to balance a range of bold-flavored ingredients. A good rule of thumb for any simple, easy-to-make, masterpiece recipe like this is to combine sweet and spicywith vinegar, shallots, and cracked pepper. The smoky and herbal notes will do the rest.
/teaspoon minced chipotles in 2 tablespoons minced shallot
adobo sauce
Freshly ground black pepper /teaspoon additional adobo
/pint fresh seasonal berries sauce
(such as blueberries or
/cup raspberry vinegar raspberries)
/cup seasoned rice wine vinegar 12 small leaves picked from 3 mint sprigs for garnish
1 tablespoon seeded and minced
jalapeٌo
In a small mixing bowl, stir together the chipotle, adobo sauce, raspberry vinegar, seasoned rice vinegar, jalapeٌo, and shallot. Taste; season with black pepper. Place in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight. Garnish each chilled cocktail oyster with a teaspoon of the sauce with berries and small mint leaves. Serve immediately.
gulf coast oysters
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Magnolia Bluff Mignonette
Makes about 1 cup
Pensacola is notorious for adapting to its settings. Some 500 years ago, a
massive estuary system evolved from the sediment carried down from the
Appalachian Mountains, creating present day Escambia Bay. The same flow deposited the oval grains of white quartz sand that shaped the Santa Rosa Island bay systems and formed our beautiful white beaches. The bays became the source for bountiful seafood like oysters, which in turn help to clean the bays by filtering the water and creating a healthy habitat for all marine life. Right now, Gulf Coast hatchery-produced oyster seeds are being raised off-bottom, and can be seen in their floating cages overlooking Magnolia Bluff along Pensacola’s scenic highway. I prepared this mignonette sauce to accompany Magnolia Bluff Oysters, Pensacola’s premium comeback oyster, and for the grand opening event for Pensacola Bay Oyster Co. Oysters are back in our bay!
/cup white balsamic vinegar 1 jalapeٌo pepper,seeded and
minced
/cup seasoned rice wine vinegar
3 tablespoons minced shallot /raspberry vinegar
Freshly cracked black pepper 1 lime,juiced
2 tablespoons small-chopped
cilantro leaves
In a small mixing bowl, stir together the balsamic vinegar, rice vinegar, raspberry vinegar, lime juice, jalapeٌo, and shallot. Stir, taste, and season with black pepper. Place in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for 2 hours or overnight. Just before serving, add the cilantro, stir, and then spoon over chilled cocktail oysters. Serve right away.
gulf coast oysters
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Mustard Seed Mignonette
Makes about 1½ cups
Cooking should be a curious and enjoyable endeavor, pretty much the same as
discovering that favorite craft oyster or beer. Creating your own basic mustard
from scratch involves a fun and simple process of soaking mustard seeds in vinegar, beer, or wine for two days, and then processing it to the desired consistency. Many people never think about making mustard. Nevertheless, it’s quite easy.
For this preparation, the mustard seeds will bloom enough in 8 hours to develop a pungent flavor, slight heat, and a caviar-like pop, and will be the centerpiece of the sauce. Inspired by the classic pairing of mustard seeds and dill for pickle making, fresh dill became the obvious herbal choice for complementing the malty sweetness and spiciness of the mustard grains.
tablespoons yellow (white) tablespoons seeded and
mustard seeds minced jalapeٌo pepper
tablespoons brown mustard /cup amber lager beer
seeds
tablespoons small-chopped
/cup champagne vinegar fresh dill
/cup apple cider vinegar Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced shallot
In a small bowl, combine mustard seeds, champagne vinegar, apple cider vinegar, shallot, and jalapeٌo pepper. Seal bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and then place in refrigerator overnight. Just before serving, add the beer, stir, and add the dill. Taste; adjust seasoning with pepper. Spoon over chilled cocktail oysters and serve immediately.
gulf coast oysters
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Tart Apple Mignonette
Makes about 1 cup
Granny Smith, queen of the tart apples, is easy to find and known for being
used in a wide spectrum of culinary dishes. In fact, these apples are perfect for
juicing and immediately drinking with nothing added at all. Frozen, they also make excellent sorbet and granita (i.e., flavored ice). Their thick skins enable them to store for long periods of time, and although they tend to ripen best in warmer climates where they get a significant amount of sunshine, they can be found everywhere. The brilliant green and refreshingly tart juice makes an excellent component to mignonette sauce.
/cup fresh tart apple juice,from /cup finely chopped Granny
Granny Smith apple Smith apple
tablespoons apple cider vinegar tablespoons minced shallot
/cup white balsamic vinegar tablespoons finely chopped
cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
Freshly ground black pepper
In a small mixing bowl, stir together the fresh apple juice, apple cider vinegar, white balsamic vinegar, lime juice, apple, shallot, and cilantro. Taste; adjust seasoning with pepper. Place in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for 2 hours or overnight. Spoon over chilled cocktail oysters just before serving.
Note: Use a home juice extractor to juice the apple. If a juice extractor is not available, omit the juice from the recipe, triple the white balsamic vinegar, and add the juice of another lime.
gulf coast oysters
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Oyster FarmMobile Oyster Co.
A LA BA M A
Many of the top restaurants throughout the
recognize Cullan Duke’s Mobile Oyster Co. and its Isle Dauphine oysters as the best. Cullan grew up sailing and fishing in Mobile Bay and around the island, and now lives and practices law in Mobile, while also working the waters that were once his childhood playground. He happened on the idea of oyster farming by accident. His interest began in 2012 while chatting with Bill Walton about a stretch of water he’d discovered off the island during his law days. The company he started is now Mobile Oyster Co.
On my trip to Dauphin Island, Cullan and his wife, Nicolette, were unable to meet up with us, but Bill Walton was kind enough to fill in for them that day. He guided me and photographer Bill Strength to their sand parking lot on the extreme west end of Dauphin Island and walked us out to the floating oyster cages.
Shucking and tasting Mobile Oyster Co. oysters straight from an oyster bag in a flipped submerged floating cage on Dauphin Island, Alabama, with Bill Walton (all).
We waded in chest-high water and saw some oysters We helped him launch a small, slightly be
staged for harvest. When we made our way back johnboat with “Miss Cate” printed on its br to the beach, Bill had to return to work at the Sea Lab. Aaron explained that Cullan and his helpers Just then, a young farm manager named Aaron Fowler rowed it out to his cages a few hundred ya pulled up in a white pick-up truck. He had a cooler filled in Mississippi Sound to check on his crop. A with some gorgeous white-shelled, premium oysters in “Have a seat,” and pulled us around the far a bright red bag. They had been freshly tagged from an using a tattered rope. He even gave us a clo earlier morning harvest. He asked us if we had time to some triploid oyster seeds. do another quick tour. Easy answer, right?
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